So I chnaged the ignition switch about a year ago. Everything worked fine until the cold winter came along. I've been having load problems. Lets say my lights are on and my rear defrost and I pull all the electric window switches up, everything dims and I get a slight high pitched noise, not loud at all. Also, if I'm just driving around with just lights on and I brake hard to engage abs, the gauges go to zero... abs light came on and goes away again when I start it the next time. Note; the car stalls but is still running, I never have to start it again myself cause it never stalls out totally. Also, once or twice the car stalled on me and came back right away when I gave it a lot of gas and let go. I changed the battery, as well as the alternator, and replaced the main ground wire cause it was corroded pretty bad. After all this I still get the same problem. I've checked all my fuses including the main one. Is it another faulty ignition switch? It doesn't feel like it.
Thanks in advance to anyone who may try to help. ;]

. Check the idle rpm--it may be too low.

. Check the alternator's regulated battery voltage, per the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1973613

. Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil, if the car has over 120,000 miles on it and the problem persists:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

My gut is the ICM is intermittently failing under load--a common problem on older Hondas. The problem will continue to get progressively worse. Even now, I would not consider the car safe to drive. Replacing the ICM and coil should restore "like new" safety, performance, and reliability.

Idle rpm is good, if anything it is too high...
As for the alternators batt voltage... would it make a difference if I am running a brand new alternator and brand new battery

If the alternator is a new Honda alternator, I'm sure it's fine. If it's a remanufactured alternator, it may be suspect.

The regulated battery voltage test indicates whether the voltage regulator is working properly. If it's kicking out less than 14 volts, there's likely a problem.

I did the batt voltage test and it seems the voltage regulator is working fine.
Any other ideas
Thank you very much

Srry just read about the icm
So that would be at about 195,000 kms and the car has 230,000 or so and I doubt its ever been changed. Geez, with the brake lines going this year and the gas tank still leaking I'm beginning to hate this car more and more

That's it--I'm betting on the ICM being the solution. Don't give up--victory is close.