My 91 civic has become hard to start. It began early summer when it got hot. Now it's cooled off and damp, sometimes it won't start at all. Today was a good example. It rain heavy today and is damp/cool. I went out and hopped in, turned the iginition and nothing but cranking. I did notice after a few moments of trying that the crank would speed up like it was trying. I pulled the relay and reheated all the connections. I also flushed it out with electronics parts cleaner and hit it with compressed air. I feel all three clicks like was suggested. I then removed the throttle body cover and gave it a small shot of gum out. Still nothing. I then checked the ecu and am only getting the "hello" blink. I then pulled a plug wire and had someone crank it and got spark. I smelled the tailpipe while it was cranking and smell gas. I then pulled a spark plug and had someone crank it again just to recheck. I saw spark but it almost started. I put the plug back and it then cranked for a little while before finally starting. When It did start it really sputtered and was slow at first but then evened out and is running fine. I really don't think it's the relay but could use some advice.

. Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

. Replace the distributor cap and rotor, if they have not been replaced in 60,000 miles. Ensure the O-ring on the distributor cap is coated with silicone grease, to help seal out moisture.

I just replaced the cap, rotor and plugs. Didn't make a difference. It still cranks for quite some time and then starts slow by sputtering then after a couple seconds gets up to normal idling speed.

I'd focus on the ICM, coil, and ECM (perform K-Test).

I take it none of these will throw a code?

Not usually. If it could only be that easy.

Lol, thanks so much for your help!

Quick question... Is the ICM you're referring to what Toyota calls an ignitor? I used to work for Toyo as a parts man for 11 years and from time to time we would sell these. However, they usually either worked or not. I don't remember ever having one that that worked other wise. If so, is honda's different whereas there's levels of how well it works?

Thank you.

Yes, with Hondas it's almost never an either/or proposition with igniters. Testing igniters and coils is virtually useless, since they do not adequately simulate the heat associated with actual use. Igniters are very problematic on Hondas. I recommend replacing them, and coils, every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. It's cheap insurance for reliability.

If your CEL comes on and goes off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the ECM is likely fine. If that's the case, most problems after that involve the igniter and/or coil. These are bread and butter repairs at most Honda dealers.