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-   -   I have a 1997 civic ex. Distributer issue (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=490835)

  • Jul 22, 2010, 11:46 AM
    cwaldo64
    I have a 1997 civic ex. Distributer issue
    I swapped out my motor and now that it is back in the car I have no spark. I tried replacing the distributor, I checked all the fuses, I replaced the crank position censor and I still have no spark. The only thing I can think of otherwise would be the main relay. I cannot find it and am growing weary working on this car. Can someone help?
  • Jul 22, 2010, 12:49 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Is the new engine identical to the old engine?
  • Jul 22, 2010, 09:01 PM
    cwaldo64

    Yes, it was a short block swap.
  • Jul 23, 2010, 06:21 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    If the CEL comes on and goes off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the problem is distributor related. Keep in mind that over 50% of even new aftermarket distributors for Hondas haven't worked at AMHD. Consider replacing the Ignition Control Module and coil, if you have a genuine Honda housing:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896
  • Jul 23, 2010, 09:01 AM
    cwaldo64

    I picked up an entire distributor from a salvage yard and had the same results. Should I try another distributor. Also, the CEL comes on and flashes off only to come back on and stay constant.
  • Jul 23, 2010, 09:45 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    That means there may be a problem with the ECM. Clean the main ECM ground, likely located on the thermostat housing, and then perform the K-Test on the ECM:

    The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

    The CEL staying on is caused by the ACG (S) (ALT) in the under dash fuse box, main relay, ECM, or ignition switch being bad. Usually, it's the fuse or ECM.
  • Jul 23, 2010, 10:55 AM
    cwaldo64

    When you refer to the ECM, is that the same as the ECU? Also, I am not sure where that is. There is nothing grounding anywhere near my thermostat housing, where else could it be located?
  • Jul 23, 2010, 10:58 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    ECM = ECU.

    Frequently, there is a 3-wire brass connector, fastened to the thermostat housing with a 10 mm bolt.
  • Jul 23, 2010, 11:09 AM
    revans3
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by cwaldo64 View Post
    I swapped out my motor and now that it is back in the car I have no spark. I tried replacing the distributor, i checked all the fuses, i replaced the crank position censor and i still have no spark. The only thing i can think of otherwise would be the main relay. I cannot find it and am growing weary working on this car. can someone help??

    Could be the ignitian coil. Check the resistance of the coil via a Haynes
    Manual.

    revans3
  • Jul 27, 2010, 06:37 PM
    cwaldo64

    I checked the ECU and it reads 5 volts. I noticed that I have a air density meter that goes in the intake that is damaged. I am going to order that and see if that helps anything. Do you have anymore ideas?
  • Jul 27, 2010, 06:38 PM
    cwaldo64

    Oh, I also checked my main relay and all the fuses again and all of them are in working order
  • Jul 27, 2010, 06:45 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Did you check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting? Did you ever locate the main ECM ground? That could be crucial.

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