Tonight while coming home from work, my civic did something I've never had happen before I was running around 65mph and it started briefly stalling out would be the best way I could describe it but only for about a second or two but this would repeat 4-5 seconds later and did this about 10 times, as I slowed down thinking I would have to stop the problem went away and if I stayed below 55mph I seemed to not have a problem. However when I pulled into my driveway at Idle it did it twice each time it would briefly kick the idle up to around 2k after it happened almost as if it was cranking up. Of the little I know about honda's which isn't much honestly. Also each time it did this while at speed and at idle, I heard my main relay click.

My check engine light does come on when my key is in the on position for 2 seconds then goes off, I do hear my main relay click on with the key, and I do hear my fuel pump start up. I just moved so I have very little in the way of tools with me currently, and its dark so I can't check much of anything right now. But any help would be great, as I don't really have the money to pay for a mechanic or a shop to look at my car currently.

My car does have around 205k miles on it, with just typical wear and tear replacement and upkeep.

Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

That should solve the problem.

Thanks for the response, I was thinking it had to be something with the ignition as well. My next question is how likely is it to really be one or both of these problems? And which one would you say would be the most likely to be the problem, as with

Hi Dave99,

I absolutely agree with TxGreaseMonkey. If your plugs and wires are good it would have to be the Ignition Control Module and the Coil cost about a hundred bucks a piece. If you are on a budget you can get a used Distributor unit from the wreckers or search online classified. As there are so many Hondas you are bound to get a pretty good used distributor. Either replacing the ICM or Coil and or simply the whole distributor it is easy to install. TxGreasemonkey has a good step by step procedure on this. If you are still wondering which one you should replace I would replace both with 100% confidence by TxGreaseMonkey. Cheers

Happy Canada Day from beautful British Columbia!

Great Thanks for the reply

Well now my problem might have changed, I was unable to get the parts changed before I had to try to get to work, I made it to work no problem, on my way home my car finally completely died, it will still turn over but not start. However I did notice a change, Now when I turn my key to the on position I NO LONGER hear my fuel pump power up, nor do I hear my Main relay click, and my check engine light does NOT go out, now that I have the time to work on it, I need to figure out some direction to go, or should I stay on the same path.

I did pull out my passenger side carpet to check the main relay however either I'm blind or well its just not there.

My repair funds are limited currently till middle of the month, so I can't just go swapping parts are crossing my fingers things will work.

If the CEL does not go out, most Civics will not spark and the fuel pump will not run.
Turning the ignition switch to ON (Position II), does the CEL come on and then go off after 2 seconds? If not, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) 15 amp fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test); main relay; or the ignition switch. Perform tests in that order.

Here's how to properly test all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

Here's how to perform the K-Test:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

Ok I'm at a loss now, after my last problem of my CEL not going off after two seconds, I checked all my fuses as you said, nothing was blown or popped all checked with a multi-meter, however my fuse locations were all different from the ones you provided, again another strange thing I have found with my car, is the parts that should fit my car are not the ones on my car, I have experienced this with brake pads, wire's, now the ICM and Coil as well, the production date of my car is 11/96 from Honda cars of America. I wasn't able to do the K-test due to someone breaking my multimeter.

After checking all the fuses I figured what the hell lets go to Autozone rent an OBD-2 and see what codes my car is giving me. I get back with it plug it in, it tells me there is a connection error, I set the MLF setting to testing when the car is not running, when I did this, I hear all 3 clicks of my main relay click and a few other clicks along with my fuel pump power up, then my CEL goes off, and the OBD comes back with no codes and said everything passed. I figure I'll try to start the car... it started right up but was still stalling/dieing out like my original problem. So now I figure great I'll go pick up a coil and ICM and replace those and hopefully I'll be back working again. But I had to order the parts...

I finally got my parts in, they had to be ordered cause for whatever reason my car I guess doesn't have standard honda parts on it, the icm and coil were completely different from the replacement parts that should have fit, we have to go to a picture book to find the actual ICM and coil to order, finally got the parts today, change them out, start the car, problem is NOT FIXED it's still stalling/dieing out at idle now, figured I'd give it a minute or two to see if it would correct itself, car dies after about 40seconds to not start again, and the CEL is back on with out going off again... fuses checked ALL ARE GOOD and even replaced with new ones all 7.5 to 20's under the hood and dash, CEL is still on. I don't know what to do, I now have no budget to replace any parts period till my next payday and w/o a car, I don't know how I will even work...

. Clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing.

. You really need to perform the K-Test on the ECM.

Is the distributor the correct one for your car?

If the CEL doesn't consistently come on and go off after two seconds, only focus on the three remaining items--ECM, main relay, and ignition switch. That's the first order of business.

OK did the K-test of yours got a good solid 5 volts from the MAP sensor plug and the ground.

When I unplugged my map sensor to do this, when I turned the key to on II, the CEL went out! And my main relay would click but, I heard NO FUEL PUMP start up, but the main relay did click, so at this point would my problem be a bad main relay? Fuel pump? Or MAP sensor?

Sorry my reply's have been slow but work is really kicking my lately with long hours then I just want to come home and pass out, but hopefully I can get this stuff worked out soon.

Lets say this is my fuel pump, which I'm not sure that it is cause it was powering on fine until this last constant CEL staying on. So I'm kind of leaning toward the main relay but would love some input here. I have tried to get my main relay out but I'm lacking a tool with the right reach to get on this stupid strange shaped nut they put on it, its almost like a lop sided square nut.

Anyway look forward to your answers

You may have stumbled upon the solution--the MAP Sensor may be bad. These are usually very reliable. Since the CEL went out, when you disconnected the MAP Sensor, it could be bad. On some Hondas, MAP Sensors are very expensive. Hopefully, this is not the case on your's. If necessary, check with a local salvage yard.

The field is being narrowed to MAP Sensor, main relay, or ignition switch. I would replace the MAP Sensor and go from there. You can test the fuel pump by jumping Terminals 5 and 7 going to the main relay connector and turning the ignition switch to ON (Position II). If the pump runs, which almost all will, the pump is fine. Honda fuel pumps are extremely reliable. You can easily remove the ignition switch and check it for wear, pitting, or melting:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224652

To save money, you might remove the main relay, examine the solder joints on the PC board, and try resoldering them. Look for "cold" joints.