I have a 1992 Honda Civic DX 1.5. The car runs great when starting and driving down the road at 40 as soon as you attempt top accelerate the car bogs down. If you put it in neutral and rev up the motor it does the same thing. All hoses have been checked. Complete tune up done and I still have the problem. I took it to a friend that is a Audi and VW certified technician. He looked it over and determined the most likely cause is the MAP Sensor. Is there a way to test the sensor before buying a new one at the cost of $230.00 which can't be returned when purchased or to determine this is the issue? Thanks for your help. BMD

It's very unlikely that the MAP Sensor is the problem, since they are extremely reliable. In fact, I've never seen one fail. I suspect the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil are likely breaking down. This is very common on these cars. Here's how to replace them yourself:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

I recommend replacing these components every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

I drove my 99 Civic DX through some deep water (don't ask) and of course it needed a tune up afterward, but otherwise ran fine. I changed the rotor and distributor cap and started it up. I ran for about a minute then died and I've been unable to start it again. Being broke and ignorant I would like to know if there is a quick and dirty test for checking out the distributor cap and rotor. I figure it's the most likely cause.

Check all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

Open the hood and allow everything to dry out. Hopefully, you have not shorted out the alternator, ECM, and any sensors. Don't do anything until the engine dries out.

I appreciate the quick and sensible response! I drove through the deep water last week and changed the distributor cap and rotor yesterday... Could wet connections still be the culprit? BTW, I think I'm asking questions where the answers are supposed to go!

You are using the site properly. Wet connections, such as from washing the engine or going through water, often cause things to short out.

It will be important to test all fuses with a test light or multimeter. Visual inspection is not good enough. Take your time and be very thorough, since it will save a lot of time and money. You can do this as soon as you know everything is dry.

Well, I changed the rotor and the cap as well as the spark plugs and checked the dash fuses, but can't see anything wrong there. A friend checked the spark coming out of the distributor and told me there isn't one.

Did you use a test light or multimeter? How about the under hood fuses? If you don't use a test light or multimeter, you run the risk of removing a fuse and replacing it in the wrong slot. Then, things really get ugly.

Does the Check Engine Light come on and go out after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?

The CEL stays on. I have read your post on the 5 Basic Tests of the ignition system. I'm still on 1a since I don't have a multimeter, but I'm trying to work my way through them. My car's stuck at work, so I'm pretty motivated to get it going. I just don't know what I'm doing.

The ECM may have shorted out. Be prepared to buy a remanufactured one--shop for price and warranty. Also, be sure to check the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse in the under dash fuse box--this is the super critical fuse for allowing the CEL to go out. Here's how to remove and replace the ECM:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235038

Honda wants around $1,100 for a new ECM, with a 1-year warranty. I bought a remanufactured for $250, with a lifetime warranty.

Oh, and the SRS light is on... I DID check the dash fuse and it looks good, I still need to check the fuses under the hood.

Does dash fuse = ACG(ALT)(S) fuse?

Ensure that the battery is fully charged. Most auto parts stores will test and charge batteries for free. Low batteries can also cause the SRS light to come on. Since the CEL is on, you should also get a code reader and check for codes--that could be crucial.

Found one on eBay for $70 plus shipping; is this what you're talking about? This is the description:

99 00 HONDA CIVIC ECM PCM ECU COMPUTER 37820 P2E A92

First, you need to remove your current ECM and get an exact Honda Part No. match. Before indicting the ECM as the culprit, however, perform the K-Test.

Is the ACG fuse good?

Thx so much!