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-   -   Evaporator coil - central air (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=380080)

  • Jul 26, 2009, 01:34 PM
    richard truex
    Evaporator coil - central air
    I was given a newer Carrier central air unit ("N" coil and Condenser, etc.). The problem is that I have a Lennox furnace and the "N" coil is slightly smaller than the plenum opening above the furnace. If the "N" coil was installed there would be a lot of air bypassing the coil.
    Do I need to get a specific sized coil to match the make of the furnace?
  • Jul 26, 2009, 02:22 PM
    wmproop
    I`ve worked on some units in the past and I found this to have happened before. What they did was to use sheet metal and filled in the sides of the furnace that wasn`t covered by the evap.coil and by doing that all the forced air had no choice but to go through the coil and not around it. It seemed to be working pretty well with no complaints from the home owner
  • Jul 26, 2009, 02:29 PM
    hvac1000
    Put a access door on that carrier N coil. They have been known to have leak problems unless they have fixed that problem by now.
  • Jul 27, 2009, 06:53 AM
    richard truex
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by hvac1000 View Post
    Put a access door on that carrier N coil. They have been known to have leak problems unless they have fixed that problem by now.


    My concern is "choking down" the furnace plenum by sheet metaling to get all the air through the coil.
  • Jul 27, 2009, 07:34 AM
    hvac1000
    Some newer style coils are smaller than the original and some are larger. If the coil has a size tag and it is a 2 ton coil it will do 2 tons of cooling etc. You have provided no pictures so it is difficult to tell exactly how bad this chocking problem might be ot if you need to install turn/vanes ora tapered system to have smooth air flow. Take some pictures and post them. We will have a look see.
  • Jul 27, 2009, 11:09 AM
    richard truex
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by hvac1000 View Post
    Some newer style coils are smaller than the original and some are larger. If the coil has a size tag and it is a 2 ton coil it will do 2 tons of cooling etc. You have provided no pictures so it is difficult to tell exactly how bad this chocking problem might be ot if you need to install turn/vanes ora tapered system to have smooth air flow. Take some pictures and post them. we will have a look see.

    Thanks I will do asap...
  • Jul 29, 2009, 06:31 AM
    richard truex
    1 Attachment(s)
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by hvac1000 View Post
    Some newer style coils are smaller than the original and some are larger. If the coil has a size tag and it is a 2 ton coil it will do 2 tons of cooling etc. You have provided no pictures so it is difficult to tell exactly how bad this chocking problem might be ot if you need to install turn/vanes ora tapered system to have smooth air flow. Take some pictures and post them. we will have a look see.

    Photo attached (I hope) of furnace insides.

    Here are dimensions:

    Furnace plenum:
    Depth 20"
    Width 21.25"

    Coil:
    Depth 18"
    Width 14.5"

    Thanks!
  • Jul 29, 2009, 09:37 AM
    hvac1000
    You will have to pan in the area so the new coil has something to sit on. The coil cabinet/plenum seems to already have a access door so that is a good thing.

    Now if it were me I would build or have built a taper seat or perch for that new coil. This will elevate the coil some but would make for smoother air transfer across it. This would also help eliminate any choking of the air flow.

    One other item to consider is to use a larger coil for a 3 ton system. I have no idea what that size would be but it might have a larger base. If you went that route you would just use the same size flow rater/piston/or expansion valve as the 2 ton coil would use. It will give a larger wet surface area and would also help with moisture removal.

    You are not a pro at this so you might seek some advise from where you bought the equipment since there are options to be considered and a perch or panning to do so the coil will fit properly.

    I am not there and I do not do drawings/design work here so all I can do is give you good advice and ideas.
  • Jul 29, 2009, 04:56 PM
    richard truex
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by hvac1000 View Post
    You will have to pan in the area so the new coil has something to sit on. The coil cabinet/plenum seems to already have a access door so that is a good thing.

    Now if it were me I would build or have built a taper seat or perch for that new coil. This will elevate the coil some but would make for smoother air transfer across it. This would also help eliminate any choking of the air flow.

    One other item to consider is to use a larger coil for a 3 ton system. I have no idea what that size would be but it might have a larger base. If you went that route you would just use the same size flow rater/piston/or expansion valve as the 2 ton coil would use. It will give a larger wet surface area and would also help with moisture removal.

    You are not a pro at this so you might seek some advise from where you bought the equipment since there are options to be considered and a perch or panning to do so the coil will fit properly.

    I am not there and I do not do drawings/design work here so all I can do is give you good advice and ideas.


    Thank you!

    If I understand correctly it would be a tapered perch forcing all air through the coil - correct?
  • Jul 29, 2009, 05:14 PM
    hvac1000
    Yes that is what I call it but I am an old man. I am sure there are different names for it but a old sheetmetal guy will understand.
  • Jul 30, 2009, 02:09 PM
    richard truex
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by hvac1000 View Post
    Yes that is what I call it but I am an old man. I am sure there are different names for it but a old sheetmetal guy will understand.

    Thanks for your help!

    Can I use regular plumbing silver solder for the copper supply lines?
  • Jul 30, 2009, 07:55 PM
    hvac1000
    Only Braze the copper lines. I am not cheap so I use 15% stick but other % will work. Also you should have a little nitrogen flow while brazing and protect all valves etc with Zorba the Heat or wet rag to prevent any damage.

    See some links here

    Proper brazing copper lines - Google Search=

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