I have a 98 Accord with 160K on it. It ran great until a few weeks ago I started experiencing a problem when it would shut down on me while driving, sometimes a few times a day. The dash would die and the car would just roll on "D" until a dead stop . No noises, no warnings, the dash just goes off, car shuts off, all in one second. No "Check engine" light or any problems with the car in general It would restart without any waiting, but today I had to wait for good 5 minutes to restart. The clock would stay on, but no dash lights, even while attempting to turn the key on. Then it starts like nothing happened. Ignition switch was replaced(Honda told me) as it was on recall. But it sounds exactly like the problem... Does my description match to what was going on with yours? I'm freaking out because I drive in busy traffic every day so I'm playing Russian roulette and I do not have $$$ for a new car. Please help if you have any info!!
Thanks!

Replace the ignition switch and harness:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224652

This is not a difficult job.

Here's what it looks like and costs for a 4 cylinder engine:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...questid=134281

Due to mileage and age, I would also replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

These are two of the most problematic components on Hondas of this generation that often cause stalling and other problems. I recommend replacing them every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. Since you regularly drive in busy traffic, these parts really should be replaced, too.

Hey, thanks a lot for the reply!!

I ll try with the ignition switch first tomorrow and see if that helps... next weekend will do the rest(ICU and coils).

Here's the sequence of events from 1 hour ago when I ran to the GS:
1.Started - no problem
2.Drove for 5 min, car was fully warm, parked at the GS - no problems.
3.Started again, drove back for 5 min, pulled in a parking lot - it died.
4. Put on park
4.a. Restarted
5.Put on reverse - died
4.Turned ignition on - nothing happens(No pre-ignition beeping noise, dash stays off, etc)
5.Tried 4-5 times
6.Finally restarts
7. Drives on reverse and "drive" for a few min without problems
8.Parked as usual

If this explains more - please feel free to reply.

I will update my posts as I proceed with fixing to provide a detailed guide to this problem.

Also, took it to CarX, they did not even charge me since they had no clue as to what the problem could be and referred me to Honda dealer. I called Honda. They promised to have manager call me Monday since they already did take care of the recall.

Thanks to everyone who helps with this matter!

Hello, people! Well, I promised to post more info about my "shut-off" problem, once I fix it.

Here is the answer that worked for me: it is a layer of wires underneath the ignition switch, not the ignition switch. Cost $150 at a "HONDA" dealer, they will test it for free though if you will fix it with them, so it was worth it to me. People with knowledge will do it for free without any problems, I just could not risk it - needed a car asap.

Car runs great for the 3rd day straight, no problems. Before I took it, my HONDA would die 3-4 times a day so I hope they fixed it now.
Hope it will be helpful!

What's the name of the par that was faulty?

I am having the same issue with my honda, exactly! Please let me know if you have had any issues since you had Honda do that repair to the wiring. I have my appointment with Honda Dealership tomorrow a.m. so I will be letting them know your experience and be posting my results as well! Thanks!

Having the same issue with my honda. Thought it was only when I was going 35 MPH, but it happened as I was going 60 MPH down a very busy highway with 2 friends in the car. I'm to the point where I'm afraid to drive it because it stalls 2-6 times a day, and I'm afraid I'll get into a serious accident some day because of it.

sarahbean2012, replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil inside your distributor will solve your problem. Apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM.

Thanks so much!! I have the same year and model and it has recently started that same thing!! I am going with 150 in hand! Thanks a billion!

kendrarn, this may help:

Ignition Control Module (ICM or Igniter) and Coil Replacement

Bench testing ICMs and coils is virtually useless. It does not come close to simulating the extreme heat that often causes these components to fail. I recommend replacing these critical and problematic components every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.


1. Disconnect negative battery cable, recording any radio codes first.

2. Remove hex-head machine screws (3), securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8mm nut driver.

3. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.

4. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver. A 1/4-inch drive magnetic bit holder (e.g. Wiha 52650) with a #2 Phillips head bit works really well. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.

5. Remove rotor and leak cover.

6. Unfasten ICM wires, remove coil mounting screws (on distributors with a coil inside), and set coil aside. Trick: Removing the coil first, on distributors with a coil inside, improves access to the ICM.

7. Remove both screws securing heat sink to housing, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

8. Remove heat sink from distributor and unfasten both screws mounting ICM to heat sink, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

9. Clean connections with #240 abrasive cloth or steel wool.

10. Coat the back of the new ICM (or old ICM, if reusing) with a thin, even coat of silicone heat transfer compound. This special silicone grease increases heat transfer to the heat sink. Failure to apply silicone heat transfer compound will cause the ICM to quickly fail. Arctic Silver 5 is recommended by an AMHD member, which is available at Radio Shack.

If the ICM and the heat sink are simply placed together, the small air gaps (insulator) that naturally exist between them will inhibit heat transfer. By filling these gaps, the compound allows a direct path through which heat can travel. Failure to apply this grease is one reason why some Hondas suddenly die. Attention to detail makes a big difference with modern day electronics.

11. Mount ICM to heat sink and reinstall ICM, ICM terminal wires, coil, coil wires, leak cover, rotor, and distributor cap. Ensure female ICM connectors fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.


Conceptually, the ICM is a large output transistor (switch) controlling current through the primary coil. ICMs replace points and condenser in older vehicles. In the primary coil, current builds to 5 to 12 amps, generating lots of heat (due to inductance). Then, the ECM controls when the ICM "switches off" current to the primary coil, causing amperage to go to zero. When this happens, 12 to 14 volts in the primary coil is "stepped-up" to 30,000 volts in the secondary coil. This process creates a "type" of alternating current required for the coil (step-up transformer) to work. In a properly working ICM, timing is precisely when needed to fire each spark plug.

Bottom Line: ICMs and coils take a beating.

Note: Distributor cap contacts can oxidize or corrode, creating high secondary resistance, which can result in rotor and ICM failure, reduced mileage, CEL coming on, catalytic converter failure, or failed emissions test. The secondary ignition system will destroy the ICM and coil, if you do not properly maintain the ignition system. This means replacing the distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires every 60,000 miles.

WARNING: Intermittent ICM failure can allow fuel to build-up in the exhaust system. Detonation can then blow the exhaust system off the vehicle.

My 1998 stopped when I shifted from Park to Drive or Reverse. Could this be the same problem?

Yes, it could be. First, however, make sure the Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II).

This my third honda and yes... 90% confident it is the ignition switch.

My girlfriend has been having the same problem I tested the ignition under the column and it was OK the took the ignition control module out of the distributer and had it tested... it failed I bought a new one for $130 with warranty and put it in car runs great... took longer to get the part than to fix it only 5 screws

I have the same year Honda with the same issues. I seemed at first it was a heat related issue as it would do it when it was very hot (everything you described- shutting off while driving, not starting, etc) but lately it just started doing this all times of day and night and even when it was cool outside. I have noticed that if I hold the key slightly turned (not to where it tries to start but just a few millimeters turned towards the starting setting) that it will not shut off. I have been doing this in heavy traffic until I can fix it. I know many would say just go get it fixed, but I can't afford it right now. Anyone know if there is a recall for this? Seems like many many Honda owners are going through this!

I feel that it has something to do with the security system. I couldn't figure it out either, it would stop running and then start right back up, however you never knew when it was going to die. Honda couldn't figure it out. I finally got an alarm system on my car and I have not had any problems since. The wires are right under the steering column. Sounds like the same thing.

Good Luck

I think, Your driving could be prohibited for repeatedly committing traffic violation offences.

What was the fix for this problem and at what cost? THANKS, J