Hi all I am new to the site, buf have come across it a lot searching for info on my newly acquired civic vx. Anyway the cars not getting spark, replaced the cap and rotor and nothing. Records of the car show it had a new disfributor put in no more than a few years ago. I am the second owner and the lady I got it off said it ran when parked she started it every now and then then lost the habit of it so it sat ra while. The relay clicks once when you put the ignition to on, then again after the cel goes off and fuel pump turns off, then when you put key in start posisition relay clicks a lot, seems like it clicks every time the engine makes a revolution. Is this normal or is the relay shot? I heard about resoldering the main relay, but what point would I look at for cracks? Also could it be the coil and icm that are making the no spark issue? Sorry for all the questions but thanks for any info.

Check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, and melting. Here's how to replace it:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224652

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

Check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, and melting. Here's how to replace it:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224652

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Ok ill do that but would that cause the no spark issue I'm having? Also a little bit down on that page it says that some places will check the coil and ignitor for free, so do I just take them off and bring them there or di they have to test then on the car? Thanks for the speedy response..

Since a new distributor was recently installed, the ICM and coil may be fine. There appears to be a problem with the ignition switch, when it's turned to Start--the main relay goes beserk. However, when the ignition switch is turned to On, everything works as it is supposed to.

The ignition switch appears to be all right from looking at it. The distributor was replaced in 2003 at 177000 miles, its now at 220000. I don't know the lifespan of the coil or icm, but could they still be bad? Is the main relay supposed to only click once on the third time while starting the engine? I also noticed that sometimes while cranking the engine over the speedometer will jump up to about 20 or 30mph. Is that a hint or just something it does after cranking for a while?

The tachometer (not speedometer) jumping is likely a sign that the ICM is bad.

The tachometer just goes up a little bit with the engine while it is cranking. The main relay clicks when the ignition is turned on, clicks when the cel and fuel pump go off, it clicks a lot on the 1 and 2 prong side when trying to start, then once more when the yoi stop trying to start it. Is this normal or does it seem to click too much?

. Check all underhood and underdash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Clean main ECM ground on the thermostat housing.

. Perform K-Test on the ECM:

Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

If the problem continues, replace the ICM and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Main relays should normally be replace every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

Did the k test, 5 volts at the map sensor, tested fuses they checked out OK, tested wires to ignitor, they were reading 11.90 volts, the only one I didn't check was the YEL\GRN or whatever to the ecm, because I wasn't sure where to put the test lead for the ecm. I didn't test the resistance on the coil wires but I'm going to get a new coil if I have to replace the ignitor anyway. Is there anything else I should check or just get the ignitor and coil and go from there? Also I re cleaned the thermostat housing ground and tightened the bolt and the relay doesn't click a lot like it did before, still no spark but now the relah clicks normally. Thanks for the help txgreasemonkey your tutorials and writeups are excellent.

Sounds like cleaning the main ECM ground was the game changer. Yes, I would now replace the ICM and coil, being sure to apply a thin, even coat of silicone heat-transfer compound to the back of the new ignitor.

Your problem, now, is strictly distributor-related. The car should be running in no time.

Just out of curisoity on the rad support there's a sticker that says honda of canada, is there a difference in anything on the car or in the distributor or is it everything the same?

Basically, they are the same. Minor differences in several fuses and daytime running lights.

All right I got a new icm and put ut in, still nothing. Should I get a new coil? Or would I be better off getting a junkyard distributor to see if it will at least start and go from there with a new distributor? Thanks for the help...

Yes, I'd replace the coil.

Well I got a distributor that was guaranteed to work at a salvage yard and put it in as close as possible to the previous timing and it fired right up with a half dead battery... it has a high idle and a tick sometimes so I think I need to adhust the timing and do the valves.. any other ideas?

. Warm engine to normal operating temperature and change oil & filter (preferably full-synthetic 5W-30). This may help the tick.

. Adjust idle rpm. This may require adjusting the throttle cable--turn outside nut (12mm) CCW. While holding outside nut with a 12mm open-end wrench, tighten the inside lock nut with another 12mm wrench.

. Set timing to specifications:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219963

. Adjust the valves, if the tick persists.