Ask Me Help Desk

Ask Me Help Desk (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/forum.php)
-   Cars & Trucks (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/forumdisplay.php?f=41)
-   -   90 civic too much fuel (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=333841)

  • Mar 25, 2009, 02:55 PM
    buggyjune009
    90 civic too much fuel
    I have a 1990 honda civic pgm fi car stalled,towed home.My problem is when I turn the key on fuel streams from top of throttle body,replaced injectors,distributor cap,rotor,coil,plugs,does anybody have any clue why I have this problem.
  • Mar 26, 2009, 10:18 AM
    buggyjune009

    Found new injector missing o-ring
  • Mar 26, 2009, 10:35 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    buggyjune009, you don't want to keep opening new threads.
  • Mar 26, 2009, 11:01 AM
    buggyjune009
    I realized after I did it,any idea as to why I'm getting fuel to 3&4 cylinders but not 1&2.The car had no problems before it quit running,smoking,idle issues,nothing out of the ordinary.ECU not giving me any trouble codes.
  • Mar 26, 2009, 11:05 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Most "crank but won't start" situations are electrical-related (90% plus), not fuel . Have you replaced the Ignition Control Module and coil with NEW components:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

    These are two of the most problematic components on your generation Honda. Plugs 3 and 4 may not be firing properly (hence, wet). It's not common to have injector problems on Hondas. Apparent fuel problems (effect) usually have an electrical basis (cause); e.g. main relay, fuse, ECM, ground, ICM, or coil.

    Does the Check Engine Light come on for 2 seconds and then go out, after the ignition switch is turned to ON? During this 2 second period, do you hear the fuel pump run?
  • Mar 26, 2009, 11:20 AM
    buggyjune009

    I've replaced coil,plugs,rotor,wires,fuel injectors,main relay I have spark,just having problem in two cylinders getting fuel.
  • Mar 26, 2009, 11:24 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    I would still replace the Ignition Control Module. This is the most trouble-prone component, which should be replaced every 120,000 miles or 10 years--whichever comes first. You can have spark, but it's not firing at the right time. It needs to fire when the ECM directs; otherwise, the car won't run. ICMs have a microchip inside that gets destroyed by heat.
  • Mar 26, 2009, 11:31 AM
    buggyjune009

    I'll try that and get back to you thanks for the info
  • Mar 26, 2009, 11:33 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Okay.

    Plugs 1 and 2 are dry, because they are probably firing, while plugs 3 and 4 are wet, because they are not firing. It appears you were interpreting the results incorrectly. Most cars suddenly die and need to be towed home, because an electrical component fails.
  • Mar 26, 2009, 05:13 PM
    buggyjune009
    Great call,decided to replace whole distributor car runs great.Keep up the great advice,thanks,Buggyjune009
  • Mar 26, 2009, 05:22 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Good job--glad to hear it. Start using full-synthetics in the engine and transmission and keep it going a long, long time.

    Put a timing light on the car, now, and "nail" the timing:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219963
  • Mar 26, 2009, 05:28 PM
    buggyjune009

    Already done I only use amsoil or royal purple in everything I own.Amsoil in daily drivers and royal purple in the street machine.
  • Mar 26, 2009, 05:30 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Smart choices! In my opinion, it doesn't get any better than Amsoil and a premium oil filter.
  • Mar 26, 2009, 05:34 PM
    buggyjune009

    Totally agree,anybody don't believe,send them my way,I love it
  • Mar 26, 2009, 05:37 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Be sure to change your brake/clutch fluid every 2 years.

  • All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:39 PM.