Help. I have a 95 civic that died the other day and since then I can not get any fire to the plugs. Also the check engine light does not come on at all. I have replaced the ICM,MAP, and now the ECM. I have tested everything in the distributor and it all test good. I tested the Ignition switch and it failed but I am reluctant to spend any more money without knowing for sure. Does anyone know if the ignition switch will allow the engine to turn over fine but not fire. Help txgreasemonkey! Help a texan out.

I'm not a big civic guy but I would definatally guess that it is the ignition switch. My sugestion would be to use a test light to find out if you are getting any power to the ignition box when the switch is on if not I would replace the ignition switch

Long live the Republic of Texas!

. Does the fuel pump run for 2 seconds and then cut off, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)? If it does, the MIL bulb has likely burned out.

. Check all underdash and underhood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

Be very thorough! Otherwise, you will waste a lot of time and money. It sounds like it could easily be a fuse problem.

. Clean main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. Look for a 3-wire brass connector.

. Check ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting, if the problem persists:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224652

. Install a new coil.

The fuel pump runs for 2 seconds and cuts off. I checked the ground and the bulb is good. Is it even possible that the ignition switch would let the car turn over but prevent it from getting fire. That does not sound right to me. But I checked the switch several times and with my wife holding the key in the III position there is continuity from terminal 2 to 3 but not 2 to 5 or 3 to 5. So according to the haynes manual it is faulty.I have not pulled it off to do a visual inspection. Also I have checked every fuse I can find. Even the ones that do not apply. I may pull the ignition switch tonight but it is getting dark and raining so I might not get to it.

It sounds more and more like a bad ignition switch. It's not difficult to visually inspect them. Still, I would replace the coil, if you have 120,000 miles or 10 years on it. Bench testing coils is not reliable. Did you apply silicone heat-transfer compound to the back of the new ICM?

Even though I know better I did not use grease because it did not come with any, I was being lazy. I will get some on there tomarrow morning. Would you recommend finding a coil in a yard or should I just buy a new one?

Only install new ICMs and coils:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

These are problematic components on Hondas, with a limited life. ICMs won't last long without heat-transfer compound.

The TEC coil from RockAuto.com is OEM, for a fraction of the price.