Goodman Furnace
Direct Ignition
- Blower kicks on
- pressure switch works
- HSI heats up for about 8 secs -- NO GAS
- HSI goes out

Status light just blinks slowly, continuously until I let go of the panel switch.
Gas valve is ON - ball cock is open - plenty of gas pressure (hot water works right next to it)

Any way I can check the gas valve for flow?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks - Brian D.

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Originally Posted by BCDurbin

Goodman Furnace
Direct Ignition
- Blower kicks on
- pressure switch works
- HSI heats up for about 8 secs -- NO GAS
- HSI goes out

Status light just blinks slowly, continuously until I let go of the panel switch.
Gas valve is ON - ball cock is open - plenty of gas pressure (hot water works right next to it)

Any way I can check the gas valve for flow?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks - Brian D.

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How many blinks? Put the panel on and then run test the furnace. Now how many blinks? The schedule of blinks should be listed on the diagram on the back of the blower door but just in case there is a list below. One more thing. Do you have gas present before the gas valve?

Just blinks slow and steady - like it is not showing a fault. I have the details showing me what the blinking means but I am not getting a fault. I will try again. I have gas before the valve - it was working just last week - now it doesn't. I just don't get any gas flowing after HSI light-up. Thanks - BCD

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BCDurbin

just blinks slow and steady - like it is not showing a fault. I have the details showing me what the blinking means but I am not getting a fault. I will try again. I have gas before the valve - it was working just last week - now it doesn't. I just don't get any gas flowing after HSI light-up. Thanks - BCD

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Maybe I'm only getting one (1) blink! Without a fault, should the light be on/off/or blinking at all?

On all the time (steady light)is the indication that nothing is wrong according to the circuit board. So if you are only getting one blink then is that blink just keep blinking one blink with a pause then another blink all he time. If so then refer to the posted blink schedule.

If you just loosen the gas line a bit you will be able to tell if you have gas. OR if your gas water appliance or any other gas appliance is working then you should have gas. Is this natural or propane. If propane be very careful.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hvac1000

On all the time (steady light)is the indication that nothing is wrong according to the circuit board. So if you are only getting one blink then is that blink just keep blinking one blink with a pause then another blink all he time. If so then refer to the posted blink schedule.

if you just loosen the gas line a bit you will be able to tell if you have gas. OR if your gas water appliance or any other gas appliance is working then you should have gas. Is this natural or propane. If propane be very careful.

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Natural Gas - water heater on same split line coming into the garage. For some reason the gas valve is not getting the signal to open. Vacuum switch works and HSI comes on but no gas.

One blink says gas flow/pressure/valve or flame sensor. Flame sensors has been changed and has been checked.

There are two wires going into the valve - is there any way to check those with a meter to check electricity to them?

Look for 24 volt at the valve. Turn off furnace and Hook up your meter directly to the valve wires that you have removed from the valve. Turn on power and Run furnace through a new complete cycle. You should have voltage there

So far nothing - I always wonder if I am doing it right though - so I will continue testing some other wires and make sure I can get voltage somewhere! - I have the schematic as well, that is helping me too, but right now I cannot get 24 V at the valve.

Trace the wiring back through the controls to find the device that is preventing the flow of the voltage to the valve. Pressure switches can cause this problem as well as other controls.

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Originally Posted by hvac1000

Trace the wiring back thru the controls to find the device that is preventing the flow of the voltage to the valve. Pressure switches can cause this problem as well as other controls.

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I can get 110 at the transformer and 24 on the other side, to the circuit board.
I am guessing there is a sequence of events - I am getting 24 volts to my limit switches and pressure switch. The pressure switch works because the HSI comes on but then I do not get any voltage (24) to my ROS's thus no voltage to my gas valve. And then no flame so no voltage to the Flame Sensor.
I'm going overboard with this - it's problably something simple! I just can't believe it's something wrong with the circiut board.

Thanks - BCD

((I do not get any voltage (24) to my ROS's thus no voltage to my gas valve.))

Looks like you have narrowed the problem down. Wherever the voltage stops that is the area of the problem.

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Originally Posted by hvac1000

((I do not get any voltage (24) to my ROS's thus no voltage to my gas valve.))

Looks like you have narrowed the problem down. Wherever the voltage stops that is the area of the problem.

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Thanks for all your help - I'll order a new circuit board and see if that helps - with that I'm only $140 invested in the problem so far! I'll let you know if it fixes it! - BCD

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Originally Posted by BCDurbin

Thanks for all your help - I'll order a new circuit board and see if that helps - with that i'm only $140 invested in the problem so far! I'll let you know if it fixes it! - BCD

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Well that didn't fix it! Everything is the same except I get a solid status light on my new circuit board. Still no gas - and I'd bet I have gas pressure cause I still have hot water off the same gas line. My only consolation is that it's going to be 74 tomorrow. I guess Ill call in the pros now and see what they say - unless there are any more suggestions! - BCD

Is there 24 volts getting to the gas valve? If so and the valve does not open the gas valve is bad. I wonder if this unit was hit by a electrical surge. This can cause a failure of more than one part at a time.

Two things you need for sure on a gas furnace 24v. On the gas valve when you call for heat at the thermostat and gas pressure AT THE INLET SIDE OF GAS VALVE even if the cook stove and water heater is working. If you have inlet pressure and not manifold pressure with 24v on the gas valve it's a bad gas valve.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hvac1000

Is there 24 volts getting to the gas valve? If so and the valve does not open the gas valve is bad. I wonder if this unit was hit by a electrical surge. This can cause a failure of more than one part at a time.

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The new circuit board may have fixed the problem - I got 24 volts all around where I needed it but it still was not working - until I reset my first ROS. I hope after all the money spent, that a bad circuit board tripped the first ROS and was waiting for me to find it! If not then it's a lesson learned - check your roll out switches first!

Any way, I have HEAT - just in time to turn the AC on!

Thanks again for your responses. - BCD