The check engine light will not come on. I changed the distributor a few months back. I checked it today and it still looks pristine. Distributor cables are new as well. Battery is new. I replaced the main relay but it still won't start. It cranks as if it will start but it just won't.

. Read the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post291477

. Perform the K-Test on your ECM:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate. Many Hondas parked for several years are now back on the road. "The K-Test creates massive value, by providing a low cost solution where one did not previously exist."--TxGM

Turns out some one was kind enough to steal my ECM. Can you recommend a god parts dealer. It's a 95 Honda civic 1.6 with California emissions. I have looked every where in my town and no one can get the California emission ECM. Online is proving just as hard to find.

Call your local Honda parts department to get the exact Honda Part No. for your car--very important when shopping for a replacement ECM. After that, call around looking for the best price and warranty. Check with RockAuto.com and College Hills Honda.

When I find the part number can I buy one from the junkyard?

Possibly. When my ECM failed, I bought a remanufactured one, with a lifetime warranty, for $250.

All right Tex! Here is another head scratcher. I matched the part number ordered online. Car won't start. It makes like it will start but it doesn't. My hunch is that I might need a new cap and rotor. As I replaced the distributor. I don't know if this makes a difference but the plastic that covered the distributor components wasn't in the distributor I just replaced. Could that be it? Ten Days no car. I am losing my patience. Thanks for all your help.

If the Check Engine Light comes on and goes out after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the problem is likely with the distributor. Most of the time replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil, in a genuine Honda distributor housing, solves the problem. Keep in mind over 50% of even new aftermarket distributors for Hondas don't work at AMHD; therefore, confirm that your housing is OEM. Here's how to replace the ICM and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

EXAMPLE: Diagnosing an Engine That Cranks but Won't Start

Check for spark at the plugs. If none, check for spark at the coil, after removing the distributor cap, rotor, and leak cover. Ground the test light clip and check for spark from the coil, as an assistant turns the ignition switch to Start. If the coil works, there should be a spark between the spring on the coil and the test light, as the probe is brought in the proximity of the spring. You now have spark at the coil and no spark at the plugs; therefore, replace the rotor and distributor cap, since one or both may be shorting out.

If there's no spark from the coil, check the igniter with the test light. Take a jumper wire, with alligator clips on each end, and ground out the coil spring. Touch the test light probe to the negative terminal on the coil, as your assistant turns the ignition switch to Start. If the igniter is good, the test light should blink on and off. If the test light does not blink on and off, replace the igniter. Should the coil still not spark, after replacing the igniter, replace the coil.

In real life, everything can check out but the engine can still die on you, once it gets hot and the igniter and/or coil start to break down under load. That's why I'm not a real fan of testing igniters and coils. This diagnostic process may keep you from just throwing parts at the problem—just be aware of its limitations.

Bottom Line: ICMs and coils really take a beating in Hondas.

Turns out I had a bad spark plug. I replaced all 4 spark plugs. I also replaced the idle air intake. Now my car is acting really strange. It idles rough and when I turn it through out black exhaust smoke. Today when I turn the key to position II the dash won't light. The car will run if I hold the key down and give it gas while holding down the key to position III. Any answers? Thanks.. Your fan.

It ran like a champ for a week. I just need this car to last for a two more months then I could trade it in.

Replace the ignition switch and harness:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224652

Easy job.

My car won't start. I am not getting gas to my engine. I replaced the fuel pump and it still won't start?

DonnaLogan, can you hear the fuel pump run, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II)? Similarly, does the Check Engine Light come on for 2 seconds and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by scharles80

Turns out some one was kind enough to steal my ECM. Can you recommend a god parts dealer. Its a 95 Honda civic 1.6 with California emissions. I have looked every where in my town and no one can get the California emission ECM. Online is proving just as hard to find.

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Wow. How does someone get close enough to a car and have the time to steal the ECM?