Was driving home the other day, stopped at a stopsign, took off and my car died. Now, about 3 days before I was in a wreck but it was minimal damage, and only bodu damage, so I didn't associate the two. Especially because it ran perfectly. Fuel pump comes on, all fuses are intact, no spark. I'm buying a test light today but I'm so poor right now its not even funny. Can someone please walk me through what to test? I'm pretty sure its my igniter because I used a 13w lightbulb to try and test see if it would light, and it didn't. This may be because they use different voltages? Not sure. But I have my distributor open ready to replace the ingniter if need be. Also, if the tachometer jumps when I try to start the car, wouldn't this mean the igniter is bad because the tach is connected to the igniter. Just a thought. Thanks guys! I'm really banking on your help because I'm 19 paying all my bills, school, and now this with my little Starbucks job :(

Nice job of analysis--I agree with everything you said. Here's how to replace the igniter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Tachometer jumping was a dead giveaway that the igniter is bad.

Follow these maintenance tips to avoid any big unexpected repair bill, while you are in school:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219991

If you take care of the engine and transmission, everything else is relatively minor.

I think I phrased it wrong, but if the tach DOESN'T jump when I crank, then that means the igniter is bad, correct?

Erratic tachometer rpm is often a sign that the igniter is bad. I don't think the tachometer will show starter motor cranking rpm.

If your CEL goes on and off normally, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), then the lack of spark is distributor-related. Usually, the problem is caused by a bad igniter or coil. If you replace those components and the problem persists, the distributor housing (genuine Honda only) needs replacing because one or more internal sensors (CKP, TDC, or CYL) are bad.

Ok let me go test a few things, thanks for the help bro

Ok, the CEL comes on for roughly 1-2 seconds as the fuel pump initiates, then the CEL goes off right when I hear the fuel pump click off(?) Not sure if its clicking "off" necessarily.

Update: OK I've taken all of the little components off and I can now access the screw on top of the ICM and the two small screws under it. I stripped about 3 screws so far, and one was in such a horrible place, it was under that little black magnet, it took me FOUR HOURS to get it out due to its lame location. I don't want to strip these two little screws but I almost did and it is about to be dark out. I've never in my life had so much trouble with screws!! Help is appreciated :)

I use precision tip screwdrivers--it makes a difference. See if a friend has one of the omnipresent bit driver sets--they have nicely machined tips that will work.

How about I just pick a set up when I get paid this Friday, might as well. But, I had a question, when an ICM goes bad, what happens to it specifically. If its something on the circuitboard that can be resoldered or a busted capacitor, I could fix that. What exactly goes "bad" on them?

The microchip inside gets damaged from heat and electron migration. Here's a picture of what they look like inside:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...post-9924.html

They are very problematic components. ICMs are electronic "points," which are responsible for opening and closing the primary circuit to the coil. When this happens, voltage increases in the secondary circuit of the coil (step-up transformer) and the plugs fire. When they start to fail, they no longer "fire" when the ECM directs and precise timing is lost.

In the old days, points had to be replaced every 15,000 miles. Now, ICMs need to be replaced around every 120,000 miles.

Hmm OK, seems like a lot of common problems are heat related. When I reattach the heatsink to my new ICM I will make sure my thermal compound is a good brand and applied well. And for all reading this, the prolong the life of your ICM GREATLY, then use a good thermal compound to transfer heat from the circuit board to the heatskink/heat spreader. It does matter!! And always look up how to properly apply the thermal compound. Building computers for 10 years has really made this very evident for me. And this thermal compound is very very cheap. Comes in a small tube for just a few dollars.

A seemingly small, but very important step.

And I forgot to mention. Best heat transfer has taken place with a thermal compound called arctic silver 5. Super cheap, look up reviews online and such. And thanks for all the help guys!

Here is my current roadblock, lol. Everything iis removed from the distributor except the ICM itself, I can't get those 2 little screws out. I even bought a precision tip screwdriver, but to no avail. Would PB Blaster be a sure way to solve this problem?

Yes, try applying PB Blaster several times and let it soak. With a true precision tip screwdriver, place enough downward pressure on the screw head to keep from buggering the head. Stand directly over it. Have a friend hold it on the floor while you are doing this.

Have a friend hold it on the floor? Its still in my car lol.

You have to remove the heat sink and ICM from the distributor first. I thought you were talking about the two screws mounting the ICM to the heat sink. I see where you are, now.

You might find it easier to do the job if you remove the distributor from the engine. Be sure to mark the distributor housing and bracket, for timing to be fairly close later.

This link may help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post288473

Ok so should it just slide out then? It seems that way, there were two screws holding the bracket on that held the magnet. Then there were three holding like a metal bracket and I thought it would just slide out but I couldn't get it to.