I have a 1993 honda accord EX(automatic). I first noticed the issue while doing 70 mph at 2800 RPM's on the interstate. All of a sudden my tach jumped all over(mostly up to ranges of 5-6k RPMS) yet my engine did not rev with it(in other words engine pitch stayed the same). I got off at the next exit and my car did not respond to acceleration correctly(felt like it wasn't sparking or not getting gas). I got into a gas station by idling turned the car off and proceeded to check fuses and spark plug wires for good connection. I then got back in and cranked the car, it responded fine though tach still jumped around for a few minutes, but then went back to normal. So I drove home. Two days later I was driving again and the tach started acting up again. This time it died while going around 40 mph and would not start again. After sitting for about 15 minutes it cranked and immediately died. I've been searching the net for about an hour and found one other person with this same issue but so far no solution has been posted on his. I know there is a screw that I can remove to test for fuel pressure(fuel pump) but don't know its exact location. I also have not yet tested for spark. (I haven't been able to get out to my car again as I don't have the money to have it towed to my house/ a ride to my car) so I'm currently trying to get as many ideas as to what could be the cause before I get back out their so its not a wasted trip.

Also I recently replaced my head gasket before this started happening, could it be due to some foreign material even though everything was thoroughly cleaned and no oil gunk was noticeable? Also timing belt/water pump are new(less than 5k miles on them) so timing should be fine as this is first time I've noticed the issue. And as I haven't stated it yet the engine does turn over. Battery is new. I haven't yet pulled the distributor cap to look for corrosion. Spark plug wires/plugs have not been greased and to the best of my knowledge never have been before. Should I grease them in case this is the issue?

You came to the right place, TXgreasemonkey has a lot of info for the Honda's:
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...les-46563.html
If he see's this post, he can probably answer off the top of his head.

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Originally Posted by Stratmando

You came to the right place, TXgreasemonkey has a lot of info for the Honda's:
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...les-46563.html
If he see's this post, he can probably answer off the top of his head.

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Yeah its what made me come here, I saw what all he had posted on a similar issue and have been reading up on all of this for a while now. I hope he does see this because he seems like he is a god when it comes to hondas. Ive already been looking through their but frankly I don't know enough to understand half of what he wants to test.(in other words where the parts are). From some other sites I've seen other things to test with a voltmeter so will be doing that either later today or tomorrow. My friend/mechanic told me to remove a pressure screw that will let me see if I'm getting fuel but I haven't been able to figure out which one(from searching I finally found the part name that I believe its on so going to search some more to see if I can't figure out exactly which screw I need, but I believe its on the fuel rail). That in essence if this screw is removed and the key is turned to the ON position fuel should shoot out from the fuel pump kicking on. Anyway off to do some more googling to see if I can't find exactly which screw I need to remove to do that test.

Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

This should solve your problem. Be sure to apply silicone heat-transfer grease to the back of the new ICM. In 40 minutes you should be cruising down the road again.

Here's what the ICM looks like and costs, which is likely the prime culprit:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...S_668210830___

Here's what the coil looks like and costs:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...S_833767956___

Ok, I still haven't had a chance to fully disassemble(I got back out their today but my philips was to long to reach the 3rd screw so I was screwed) but I was wondering could I /should I(funds are very tight) just go to a junk yard and pull the whole assembly off another car? Keep in mind that if I don't get this car up and running and come up with about 500$ by the end of the month I'm homeless. So I'm willing to deal with a part of the new distributer/coil going bad 3 months down the road and then replacing with new parts when I can better afford it.

Secondly I did check for fuel in my fuel rail and had plenty, tested my fuel relay switch and it was in working order as well. Fuel pump is also turning on. So it is defiantly spark. Though I haven't yet tested the coil to see if its getting spark to the distributer.

And thanks for all advice. Also txgreasemonkey I haven't ignored the rep factor, it will be a plus its just till I replace the part(s) I don't know what the exact outcome will be so I don't want to write a message that could be "wrong"

Good job! Glad to see you got it running.

Not running yet, friend is bringing me a new one tonight, I used a parts store to test the part and it came back bad, so even if I have an additional problem to that(doubtful but possible) at least I have gotten most or all of it diagnosed. Again thanks for the help.

Ok got the part in it today, it went a mile no issue, then tach started acting up again, another mile or so and its now dead yet again. My friend is thinking it's the alternator, so I will be replacing it and the coil Monday. If its not that, then I have no clue :)

Was the ICM brand new?

No it was used from a known good car and we tested two different ones in it. From what I've been reading online it looks like the most likely problem is my coil, and as it only costs about 6$ from a junkyard its my next step, id already have one on it but the first junkyard I went to was fresh out of them(how dare they!). Also from reading, supposedly it could be a ground issue. But I'm not sure where all the ground wires are. So I suppose if my next step(distributer/coil) doesn't work that will be what I need to check next?

My experience is that you cannot trust bench testing ICMs. I've seen too many test fine that didn't work at all. I no longer recommend even testing them on AutoZone's Well's Machine. These are very problematic components.

I believe that if you installed a brand new ICM your problem would be solved. The BLU wire going to the ICM goes directly to the tachometer. When the ICM is in the process of failing, the tachometer needle becomes erratic. It's best to install new ICMs and coils every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

I don't think the alternator is the problem. It's most likely the ICM, then the coil. Be sure to apply the silicone heat-transfer compound to the back of the ICM--otherwise, heat will quickly destroy even a new one. Both of these two components eventually break down under load (due to heat).

I used the bench test was for my old one, and it failed. The "new" one has not been bench tested but was taken from a car that slung a rod, so was working fine before that, so in computer terms what we call "known good" It could I suppose be a loose wire as we didn't re crimp down hard but they were a snug fit to start with. The coil however does have viable signs of damage from an air gap that I was unaware of till to late, so this seems to be very likely to be the issue, or a part that will fail soon so needs to be replaced anyway.

Also good to know that the bench test isn't reliable :)

I don't remember mentioning my alternator, just ground wires. As far as the alternator it was changed less than 1000 miles ago so I don't see how it could be going bad already.

ICMs, however, are specific to each engine. Did the part numbers match exactly? ICMs have microchips inside that get destroyed by heat. They are sophisticated "electronic points."

RockAuto.com has a BECK/ARNLEY, Part #1800218, for $59.99.

The ICM came from same year(or maybe a year earlier) car different model, same engine.

Sometimes, it can be the same engine but a different distributor; e.g. Nippondenso vs. Hitachi. Keep me posted.

Same distributor, coil, computers etc. any part off that car would work on mine(at least from under the hood) unfortunately its already been partially cannibalized so no coil to use. Will post back on this on Monday after I get the part(s) installed and hopefully back up and running.

Back with more:tried a new coil, no go, tried a whole new distributor, no go. *sigh* also I'm getting code 15 does that help?

Code 15 proves my case. Your ICM is bad--spend some money on a new one and your problem should be solved.

I will be testing voltages to the ICM tomorrow to test it. If the ICM is bad yet again this doesn't neccisarily prove your case because something has made 4 of them go bad in the span of 5 miles. So I will be testing voltages/resistance on all parts of distributer/coil/spark plugs. Also will be getting a new MAP sensor to test, just tested a new ECU and a new injection module(not sure if that's what its called, its silver on driver side has a huge heat sink on it.) Performance increased when that part was replaced however did not stop my issue.

Also noticed while I was out their that something with a gray plug right below the distributor was "loose" when pulled on lightly the unit broke off in the block, not sure what that sensor is for, but will be replacing it as well tomorrow.

In essence if it is my ICM that is the issue still, it is not the issue, because something is frying them within seconds of cranking the car. So assuming this part has gone bad yet again(the 4th one, and yes the others were all known working) what else should I check to see how or why they are being fried.