My 2001 Honda CR-V stalled at the stop sign and won't turn on again. When we turn the key it doesn't make any noise. At position II the check engine light goes out after 2 secs. Does this mean it is definitely the distributor?

Could be the battery. There is enough power for the guages but not enough to close the solenoid.

If you are saying it cranks but won't start and the CEL is operating normally, then, yes, I would focus on the distributor. Replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil will likely solve the problem:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

If the starter motor doesn't run, then this link should help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235560

Says "when we turn the key no noise". That's why I thought battery.

You may be right. Because of the talk of the CEL working and the distributor, I thought I would cover all bases.

The battery is 2 years old. Would the battery cause the car to stall while driving and just coming to a stop? TxGreaseMonkey I read through a some of your comments with another driver that had a somewhat similar problem and you meantioned the distributor. So I tried what you said about position II and the check engine light and it did go out after 2 seconds. I would love if it's just the battery, but is there anyway to definitely know if it's something like the distributor? Also, the tow truck driver said there is a chance it can be the timing belt. What are your views on it being the timing belt? I really hope it's not a timing belt. Thank you everyone for your input.

So the update is that I tried to start the car and it almost started. So this time there was definite sound. I'm going to check the battery tomorrow.

Most auto parts stores will test and charge batteries, which tend to last about 4 years, for free. If the car starts, after installing the battery (attach the negative battery cable last), have an auto parts store test the alternator for free.

Well, It's not the battery... Brought it to an auto parts store and it's 12.4AMps

Well, It's not the battery... Brought it to an auto parts store and it's 12.4AMps

What should I check next the distributor or the alternator?

Do you mean 12.4 volts? Did they place it on a battery charger? If so, how many amps did it draw? I'm skeptical they tested it properly. Some auto parts store clerks know little and are dangerous in diagnosing almost anything.

See if the battery cranks the starter motor. Then, see if the CEL comes on and goes off normally when the ignition switch is turned to Position II. If it does, then I would replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Well, we are going to be changing the ICM and coil on the distributor as soon as the parts come in. Thanks for your help. I'll let you know how it goes after we get it in.

It's very important to remember to apply the silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM. Ask them to give it to you.

TXGreaseMonkey We changed the ICM and Coil and nothing. Still doesn't start. Any other suggestions?

Perform the tests in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post229012

If the under hood and under dash fuses are good, the CEL comes on and goes off normally, no codes were thrown, and the starter motor cranks, the problem is still likely with the distributor. The internal sensors (CKP, TDC, and CYL) may be bad, which is common on Hondas. Install your new ICM and coil in a new genuine Honda distributor housing and your CR-V should run like a top. Progressing in this fashion you have not wasted any money.

Here's how to properly install a Honda distributor:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post288473

Better be a lot more than 12.4 Amps!! Even 12.4 volts is a bit low. Alternator should produce 14V and depending on the rating, 45-60+ Amps.

I have a Honda CRV, 2000 Model. Last week the it suddenly refused to start at the Car Park but the Engine turns. I have changed the battery, the Fuel Pump and the distributor and still won't start but turns and still no spark to the Plugs. Someone advised me that it could be electrical fault or maybe the Distributor is deffective. Please can you help. Thanks

Perform tests in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post229012

Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas don't work at AMHD. I only recommend genuine Honda distributors. If it's not too late, consider installing a new ICM and coil in your old Honda distributor housing. My bet is that you definitely have a distributor related problem, especially if the Check Engine Light comes on and goes off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II).

Thank you for your help TxGreaseMonkey.

olatwice, what was the solution to your problem?

TxGreaseMonkey:
I am sad to say that my car hasn't started since I posted this "thread". We tried what you said, even charged the battery, replaced the ICM and the Coil in the original distributor housing and it's still not running. We also tried getting a new distributor, but that didn't make it run either. The CEL go right out and I hear the fuel pump, or at least what I am deducting as the fuel pump. We checked the fuses. I'm so at a loss for words here. Any other help you can give would be great. Thanks again.

It cranks, but doesn't start.

Since the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and goes out, after the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), the problem is likely distributor related. Just be sure the timing belt did not break. Remove the oil filler cap, have someone else crank the starter motor, and ensure the camshaft rotates.

Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas don't work at AMHD. Was the new distributor a genuine Honda part? If not, install your new ICM and coil in a genuine Honda distributor housing. It should then fire right up.

If the problem persists, see if there was a TSB on the ignition switch. There may be wear or pitting in the switch.

I was finally able to take it to a mechanic today he said he spent all of 2 minutes on it. He told me they took the distributor cap off and the rotor didn't spin so he says it's definitely the timing belt. Is that true that if the rotor doesn't spin then it's definitely the timing belt?

Yes. Unfortunately, the repairs will be expensive.