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-   -   1996 Honda Civic LX turns over but won't start!! (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=491429)

  • Jul 24, 2010, 12:05 PM
    hillbillyjoe
    1996 Honda Civic LX turns over but won't start!!
    I have a 1996 Honda Civic LX standard 1.6L 4cyl 5 speed 108K. It was starting fine, I then took it to the car wash to degrease the engine compartment. After spraying it down the car started and ran for about 20 seconds as I was driving away it shut off. I had to get it towed home. So I went to the parts store and bought new plugs, wires, and cap. Still just turns and turns will not fire up. Any sugestions? Rotor? Coil? Distributor? Timing belt? I walked to the gas station and added a gallon of gas to the tank, that was the first thing I tried. I went to the local parts store and rented a OBD II scanner. It came back with NO error codes. The rotor does turn when cranking. I am going to spray some starting fluid into the throttle body to see if it starts, that will take care of the fuel issue.
  • Jul 24, 2010, 12:40 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    . Leave the hood open and allow everything to dry out.

    . Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

    . Remove the distributor cap, spray the inside with WD-40, and wipe out with a soft rag.

    After this, you will be in a better position to assess whether the ECM, alternator, ICM/coil, and sensors were shorted out. Like floodings, these situations can be nasty. On modern-day cars, it's best to spot clean by hand.
  • Jul 24, 2010, 03:02 PM
    hillbillyjoe
    TxGreaseMonkey - The car had a little bit of a rough idle before I took it and cleaned the motor off. But it started up just fine. So what would cause the rough idle? Maybe whatever it was I damaged at the wash?
  • Jul 24, 2010, 03:11 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    To eliminate rough idle:

    . Clean the Idle Air Control Valve:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1054149

    . Clean the throttle plate and throttle body.

    . Replace PCV Valve.

    . Clean the air box and change the air filter.
  • Jul 25, 2010, 06:31 AM
    hillbillyjoe
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    . Leave the hood open and allow everything to dry out.

    . Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

    . Remove the distributor cap, spray the inside with WD-40, and wipe out with a soft rag.

    After this, you will be in a better position to assess whether the ECM, alternator, ICM/coil, and sensors were shorted out. Like floodings, these situations can be nasty. On modern-day cars, it's best to spot clean by hand.

    I installed new plugs, wires, and cap. I cleaned the sensor on the air box and the airbox itself. New air filter was installed too. I pulled a plug out and put it back in the wire and rested it on the intake valve cover. I cranked it over in a darl gargae and saw no sparks. Does this mean the coil is bad? Coil fuse under dash is good along with all the others.
  • Jul 25, 2010, 06:45 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    If the Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the problem is likely distributor related. I would, then, replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

    If you want, first try replacing the coil. These two components affect spark.
  • Jul 25, 2010, 06:53 AM
    hillbillyjoe
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    If the Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the problem is likely distributor related. I would, then, replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

    If you want, first try replacing the coil. These two components affect spark.

    And if the check engine light does not go off after 2 seconds on position II? Main relay? Or Computer?
  • Jul 25, 2010, 06:56 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, ECM, main relay, or ignition switch. Because of what you did, the fuse and ECM are most likely.
  • Jul 25, 2010, 06:57 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    So, does the CEL stay on?
  • Jul 25, 2010, 07:00 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Houston, are you there?
  • Jul 25, 2010, 07:30 AM
    hillbillyjoe
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    So, does the CEL stay on?
    Yes the check engine light goes off. I hope it's the coil! These ignition parts aren't cheap lol Any other sugestions before I run up to the parts store.
  • Jul 25, 2010, 08:32 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Nope. This is likely the most expensive hosing you've had in a while. You are getting off cheap, too, since the ECM appears fine.
  • Jul 25, 2010, 09:11 AM
    hillbillyjoe
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Nope. This is likely the most expensive hosing you've had in a while. You are getting off cheap, too, since the ECM appears fine.
    OK I went to the parts store and put all the new parts on. They did not have the ICM so I just got the coil. It starts up better than it ever has. Now the Check engine light blinks! Haha but it seems to be running pretty smooth.
  • Jul 25, 2010, 09:16 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    You are so lucky! I would attach a code reader again. Afterwards, use the code reader to erase any codes.
  • Jul 25, 2010, 09:22 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Ensure the O-ring was installed on the new distributor cap--very important. It's best to coat it with silicone grease.
  • Jul 25, 2010, 09:38 AM
    hillbillyjoe
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    You are so lucky! I would attach a code reader again. Afterwards, use the code reader to erase any codes.
    Haha this time I am! No more pressure washing the engine compartment. I'll try the OBD II on Monday that's enough work for today. Thanks for all your help!! :)
  • Jul 25, 2010, 09:43 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Before you leave, try removing the 7.5 Backup Fuse, in the under hood fuse box, for 10 seconds. It may reset the ECM and save you a trip.
  • Jul 25, 2010, 09:47 AM
    hillbillyjoe
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Before you leave, try removing the 7.5 Backup Fuse, in the under hood fuse box, for 10 seconds. It may reset the ECM and save you a trip.
    OK I will do that! Thanks again!
  • Jul 25, 2010, 04:41 PM
    hillbillyjoe
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Before you leave, try removing the 7.5 Backup Fuse, in the under hood fuse box, for 10 seconds. It may reset the ECM and save you a trip.
    Pulled the 7.5 backup fuse the check engine light is off and running smooth now. However the battery light comes on after it runs for about 3-4 minutes and stays on. Does this mean the altenator now? Never ends...
  • Jul 25, 2010, 04:48 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Typically, coils, ICMs, and alternators get fried. After that, ECMs and selected sensors. Check the alternator fuse, again. If the problem persists, have your local auto parts store test the alternator for free.

    You just had to be a clean freak--see what it got you.

    Here's my motto: "Remember, as always, to Stay Greasy." If you had followed that advice, it would have saved you a lot of coin.
  • Jul 25, 2010, 05:07 PM
    hillbillyjoe
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Typically, coils, ICMs, and alternators get fried. After that, ECMs and selected sensors. Check the alternator fuse, again. If the problem persists, have your local auto parts store test the alternator for free.

    You just had to be a clean freak--see what it got you.
    Haha yeah yeah clean freak I am, I just bought this car for a spare. You should have seen this engine, the 10 min. oil change place the previous owner took it to forgot to put the oil cap back on the valve cover and the whole compartment was covered in oil and smoking. Idiots! I'm just trying to bring it back to it's 1996 shine. All right thanks I'll take it across the street tomorrow and have it tested... another $100.00
  • Jul 25, 2010, 05:12 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    You probably bought a pretty decent second car that will last another 150,000 miles.
  • Jul 26, 2010, 01:12 PM
    hillbillyjoe
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    You probably bought a pretty decent second car that will last another 150,000 miles.
    OK I have found that the battery light goes off when I hit the gas. Take my foot off the gas it comes back on. (this is in neutral)
  • Jul 26, 2010, 01:20 PM
    hillbillyjoe
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    You probably bought a pretty decent second car that will last another 150,000 miles.
    And by bought I mean traded my 97 Pontiac Trans Sport with 148K that's impossible to do any engine work on. So far I think it's a good trade/purchase.
  • Jul 26, 2010, 02:37 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Your idle rpm is too low. Loosen the inside nut on the throttle cable adjustment and tighten the outside "lock" nut. Idle speed should be around 700 rpm.

    Here are some tips to help you go another 150,000+ miles:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219991
  • Jul 29, 2010, 12:38 PM
    hillbillyjoe
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Your idle rpm is too low. Loosen the inside nut on the throttle cable adjustment and tighten the outside "lock" nut. Idle speed should be around 700 rpm.

    Here are some tips to help you go another 150,000+ miles:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219991
    OK I adjusted the idle screw, it seems to be good now. The check engine light is on. I took it to autozone and had it tested and (4) codes came up. 1) have a #2 missfire... 2) have a #4 missfire... 3) Speed sensor (speedometer doesn't work just bounces up and down) and 4) Their tool couldn't read the code they told me to take it to a mechanic. So I went into my "Haynes" manual and I checked and re-gapped the spark plugs. I guess next I going to replace the fuel filter. How many fuel filters does the 1996 Civic have?
  • Jul 29, 2010, 12:45 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    One fuel filter, located on the firewall and to the right of the battery:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224689

    Remove the plugs and coat the porcelein and end going to the spark plug wire with a light coating of dielectric grease. Liberally, coat the spark plug wire connectors going inside the distributor cap with dielectric grease. This should stop the misfires. Ensure all connections are completely seated.

    The Variable Speed Sensor (VSS) may have been shorted out. Because of its location on the transmission, next to the firewall, it's easy to see how. Simple job to remove two machine screws and replace.
  • Jul 29, 2010, 02:53 PM
    hillbillyjoe
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    One fuel filter, located on the firewall and to the right of the battery:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224689

    Remove the plugs and coat the porcelein and end going to the spark plug wire with a light coating of dielectric grease. Liberally, coat the spark plug wire connectors going inside the distributor cap with dielectric grease. This should stop the misfires. Ensure all connections are completely seated.

    The Variable Speed Sensor (VSS) may have been shorted out. Because of its location on the transmission, next to the firewall, it's easy to see how. Simple job to remove two machine screws and replace.

    The speedometer was broken when I bought the car, so I know that wasn't from the water. I'll give the dieelectric grease a try and a new fuel filter. Who knows if it's ever been replaced. You know what for the life of me I can not locate the PCV valve. I bought a new one and have looked under the motor like the Haynes manual says and on the manifold too it shouldn't be this hard! I've built a muscle car and it was not as hard as this Honda lol
  • Jul 29, 2010, 02:56 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    PCV Valve is on the driver's side of the intake manifold, just beneath the fuel rail. Follow the hose from the plenum.
  • Jul 29, 2010, 08:17 PM
    hillbillyjoe
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    PCV Valve is on the driver's side of the intake manifold, just beneath the fuel rail. Follow the hose from the plenum.
    I've looked there and looked there. Could it be someone removed it and never put one back on?
  • Jul 29, 2010, 08:24 PM
    hillbillyjoe
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by hillbillyjoe View Post
    I've looked there and looked there. Could it be someone removed it and never put one back on?
    OK apparently from what I've been reading on the D16Y7 motor you change it from under the car. It's located right above the oil filter, and sometimes you have to remove oil filter to get to it.
  • Jan 24, 2011, 08:03 PM
    bad93civic
    Hey if you find out what's wrong with your car let me know because the same thing happened to me except I didn't take mine to the carwash

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