Was driving home the other day, stopped at a stopsign, took off and my car died. Now, about 3 days before I was in a wreck but it was minimal damage, and only bodu damage, so I didn't associate the two. Especially because it ran perfectly. Fuel pump comes on, all fuses are intact, no spark. I'm buying a test light today but I'm so poor right now its not even funny. Can someone please walk me through what to test? I'm pretty sure its my igniter because I used a 13w lightbulb to try and test see if it would light, and it didn't. This may be because they use different voltages? Not sure. But I have my distributor open ready to replace the ingniter if need be. Also, if the tachometer jumps when I try to start the car, wouldn't this mean the igniter is bad because the tach is connected to the igniter. Just a thought. Thanks guys! I'm really banking on your help because I'm 19 paying all my bills, school, and now this with my little Starbucks job :(

Nice job of analysis--I agree with everything you said. Here's how to replace the igniter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Tachometer jumping was a dead giveaway that the igniter is bad.

Follow these maintenance tips to avoid any big unexpected repair bill, while you are in school:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219991

If you take care of the engine and transmission, everything else is relatively minor.

I think I phrased it wrong, but if the tach DOESN'T jump when I crank, then that means the igniter is bad, correct?

Erratic tachometer rpm is often a sign that the igniter is bad. I don't think the tachometer will show starter motor cranking rpm.

If your CEL goes on and off normally, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), then the lack of spark is distributor-related. Usually, the problem is caused by a bad igniter or coil. If you replace those components and the problem persists, the distributor housing (genuine Honda only) needs replacing because one or more internal sensors (CKP, TDC, or CYL) are bad.

Ok let me go test a few things, thanks for the help bro

Ok, the CEL comes on for roughly 1-2 seconds as the fuel pump initiates, then the CEL goes off right when I hear the fuel pump click off(?) Not sure if its clicking "off" necessarily.

Update: OK I've taken all of the little components off and I can now access the screw on top of the ICM and the two small screws under it. I stripped about 3 screws so far, and one was in such a horrible place, it was under that little black magnet, it took me FOUR HOURS to get it out due to its lame location. I don't want to strip these two little screws but I almost did and it is about to be dark out. I've never in my life had so much trouble with screws!! Help is appreciated :)

I use precision tip screwdrivers--it makes a difference. See if a friend has one of the omnipresent bit driver sets--they have nicely machined tips that will work.

How about I just pick a set up when I get paid this Friday, might as well. But, I had a question, when an ICM goes bad, what happens to it specifically. If its something on the circuitboard that can be resoldered or a busted capacitor, I could fix that. What exactly goes "bad" on them?

The microchip inside gets damaged from heat and electron migration. Here's a picture of what they look like inside:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...post-9924.html

They are very problematic components. ICMs are electronic "points," which are responsible for opening and closing the primary circuit to the coil. When this happens, voltage increases in the secondary circuit of the coil (step-up transformer) and the plugs fire. When they start to fail, they no longer "fire" when the ECM directs and precise timing is lost.

In the old days, points had to be replaced every 15,000 miles. Now, ICMs need to be replaced around every 120,000 miles.

Hmm OK, seems like a lot of common problems are heat related. When I reattach the heatsink to my new ICM I will make sure my thermal compound is a good brand and applied well. And for all reading this, the prolong the life of your ICM GREATLY, then use a good thermal compound to transfer heat from the circuit board to the heatskink/heat spreader. It does matter!! And always look up how to properly apply the thermal compound. Building computers for 10 years has really made this very evident for me. And this thermal compound is very very cheap. Comes in a small tube for just a few dollars.

A seemingly small, but very important step.

And I forgot to mention. Best heat transfer has taken place with a thermal compound called arctic silver 5. Super cheap, look up reviews online and such. And thanks for all the help guys!

Here is my current roadblock, lol. Everything iis removed from the distributor except the ICM itself, I can't get those 2 little screws out. I even bought a precision tip screwdriver, but to no avail. Would PB Blaster be a sure way to solve this problem?

Yes, try applying PB Blaster several times and let it soak. With a true precision tip screwdriver, place enough downward pressure on the screw head to keep from buggering the head. Stand directly over it. Have a friend hold it on the floor while you are doing this.

Have a friend hold it on the floor? Its still in my car lol.

You have to remove the heat sink and ICM from the distributor first. I thought you were talking about the two screws mounting the ICM to the heat sink. I see where you are, now.

You might find it easier to do the job if you remove the distributor from the engine. Be sure to mark the distributor housing and bracket, for timing to be fairly close later.

This link may help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post288473

Ok so should it just slide out then? It seems that way, there were two screws holding the bracket on that held the magnet. Then there were three holding like a metal bracket and I thought it would just slide out but I couldn't get it to.

After you remove the two screws holding the heat sink to the distributor housing, the heat sink-ICM assembly comes out.

I don't quite understand step 6 in that guide. Id that referring to the plug part?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

After you remove the two screws holding the heat sink to the distributor housing, the heat sink-ICM assembly comes out.

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Been trying to find a picture, bud can't find a good one that shows this specifically. Lol gimme a minute.

Step 6.

Yes, there's a "tower," where connectors from the distributor come together. The point is to figure out how the connectors come apart first. Don't just start prying on them or they may break. Remove them from the mount (tower) first and then they should just come apart.

I'm trying to understand but I think you are losing me with the word tower. I'm trying to find a good picture, if you have one that'd be great! And thanks again for the help. We're making progress. My goal is to know this thing inside and out by the time Friday comes when I get paid. I need to be back on the road asap! :)

Towers are where two or more connectors are stacked together on a mount.

The important thing is that you may find all of this easier if you remove the distributor from the engine and place it on a desk and work on it. Many times, that's how I prefer to work on things. It allows you to do a perfect job.

When the distributor bearings failed on my Honda, I completely removed the distributor from the engine and carefully replaced the ICM and coil from the old distributor into the new Honda housing. It saves your back.

Okay I'm going to go take it out now. Thanks!

Okay, got it out of my car and on my desk. I'm trying to remove the two screws on the distributer housing connected to the heatsink and one of them are too badly stripped. :( I can fix that Friday but until then I want to buy all new screws and bolts for the distributor. How would I do this, autozone? Also, how do I reset the timing? I marked on the housing but that only gets it close, right? Thanks.

Your final exam this semester involves replacing the ICM in your distributor. You are only allowed 45 minutes.

Yes. If you marked it with a scribe, that should work just fine. You can place a timing light on it if you want, but it won't be really necessary. Honda might be the best place to get replacement screws or your local FASTENAL store.

Haha yeah this has been a good little project.

I'm going to check on all this, but as for timing how precise does it have to be? Also, I've noticed that on my distributor cap the contacts inside are a tad corroded. Can I use coke on a swab to clean these? Or are they permanently damaged calling for a new distributor cap?

How many miles are on your Civic?

If you accurately placed a straight scribe mark across the housing and bracket, you shouldn't need to use a timing light.

150k

Amazing. My distributor sounded like a thrashing machine at 95,000 miles. You should probably replace the distributor cap--I recommend BWD caps from O'Reilly Auto Parts. They have brass contacts inside, instead of aluminum, and come with a lifetime warranty--cheaper, too. Since you are short of money, however, there's no rush.

The corrosion is not like battery acid--it won't respond to Coke. Best thing to do is just replace the cap later.

Spray the new machine screws with WD-40, before you install them. It will help with any corrosion.

Did you get the heat sink out?

Yeah this car purrs I love it, the body is gorgeous too besides my front fender from the wreck :(

But definitely will pick up the cap.

And I'm curious now since I've dealt with this problem. When I used to take off in 1st gear it would sputter, and even worse, when I took off in 2nd. It wasn't all the time, though. Was this a sign of my ICM going bad?o

No I never got the heat sink out. I haven't gotten the ICM out of the housing. I stripped a screw and I am going to borrow my neighbor's dremel later to cut a notch so I can get it out. I see now how to do it now though so that's not a problem

Yes, that was likely caused by the ICM breaking down. They are problem-prone parts. Look at all that have been replaced at AMHD--several a day. This is "bread and butter" business for most Honda dealerships--likely several a day.

Especially since you are a struggling college student, be sure to use SAE 5W-30 full-synthetic engine oil in your Civic. Change it every 6 months or 6,000 miles, whichever comes first. This is to help you avoid the big unexpected repair bill. Here are some other tips that will save you a ton of money:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219991

It's all about playing good "defense" with your wallet.

Lol OK, so after I fix this, I have one more payment on the car then I want to start doing preventative replacement on more of these "bread and butter" parts.

Start a Maintenance Log for your car--Date, Mileage, Work Performed. Keep it on Microsoft Word. It will save you time and money.