Quote:

---

Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

If you turn your ignition ON, the Check Engine Light, on a properly running Honda, should come on and then go off after 2 seconds. During this time, you should hear the fuel pump run. If the Check Engine Light does not come on and then go off, focus on the main relay, ECM, and ignition switch.

So, describe what your Check Engine Light, battery light, oil pressure light, and fuel pump are doing?

Did you check all under-hood and under-dash fuses?

What's the mileage on your Civic?

---

I have replaced the coil, ICM, and main relay. All of the fuses are good and I still don't have fire to the plugs. When I turn the key on the CEL stays on and I don't hear the fuel pump. In the midst of troubleshooting it rained and cooled off (Houston) and the car started but now won't. Do you know if Honda can run diagnostics on the computer if I take it out of the car? I hate to spend over $200 on a computer if that's not the problem.

bugznsb, perform the K-Test on the ECM:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

Im having same problem coil was checked to be working properly and I switched out ICM for another still not cranking.

Bench testing coils and ICMs is virtually worthless. I recommend, instead, replacing coils and ICMs every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

Where is the fuel pump ? Is it electric? I checked all the fuses ,good.no sound of fuel pump while engine light is on. I have spark.under the hood fuel filter side to injectors I opened the line no fuel came out. What's next?

Perform tests, in Sections 1 and 2, below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...les-46563.html

I have kind of a similar problem... but my car works fine but none of my lights in my cluster turns on and my signal n wipers don't work... any suggestions wats wrong with my car?

. Check all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting.

I think the fuel pump is out too... idk I'm slowly giving up on my hatch

All fuese has power... people is telling me to check the wirings but that's a whole lot of wires

For the astute, one person's disaster is another person's bargain.

Please help. My '97 Civic generally starts up without fail immediately after 178,000 miles. This morning I woke up it started, sputtered as the CEL blinked and then died. I tried to restart to no avail. I popped the hood and one of the spark plug wires had been chewed in half by a critter (at least that is my best guess). I replaced the wire (and of course I had to buy the entire harness as opposed to one) and it still will not start. I had disconnected the negative terminal on the battery to reset any codes but nothing. I smell gas, but still nothing. I am completely perplexed.

fpinero, perform tests in Sections 1 and 2 below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...les-46563.html

It could easily be that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil need to be replaced:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Use a code reader to read and erase codes.

Hello not an answer but I have the same problem with my 94 honda civic 1.6vtec and I've changed the ignition control module (igniter)the this cap and rotor still no spark. But the coil tower has a consistent 50volts?

warpull, bench testing coils is virtually useless. I would install a new coil. If the problem persists, install you new igniter and coil in a genuine Honda distributor housing--the internal sensors may be bad in the old distributor.

I have changed the coil ,it worked but the coil went out again just after a day? Any ideas?

warpull, check the resistance of the spark plug wires--they may need replacing, too. High resistance can cause the secondary voltage to destroy ICMs and coils--it turns on itself.

By the way thanks for help. And yes I checked the sp wires the resistance seems too low to be the culprit(1000 ohm).could it be faulty ground or bad distributor?

Since you changed the ICM and coil, my bet is the distributor housing is bad. Only go with a genuine Honda distributor housing, where you install your new ICM, coil, rotor, and distributor cap.