I am having problems with getting my 1994 Honda Civic EX to start. I am getting no spark at the spark plugs, but I am getting fuel to them. I have read through the FAQ listed in the forum on the subject. I have replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor, distributor cap and Igniter Module. I have checked the coil resistance and found it to be in spec. I have also run the resistance checks on the sensors inside the distributor and have found them to all be in spec. I have inserted the jumper wire in the diagnostic connector to read the codes from the ECM. The response that I got was that the Check Engine Light stayed on continuously (no flashing of any kind) and the SRS light flashed steadily (no pattern for reading a number). I have removed power (disconnected battery), rerun the test, and got the same response. This condition is not identified in the Haynes manual that I am using. Can anyone provide any guidance? Sounds like the ECM is bad (not much else to replace, unless the distributor sensors can pass the resistance check and still be bad).

You are getting no spark at the spark plugs. I have to civic 92. The engine cut off after 5 to 20 minutes. We checked and found no spark at the spark plugs. We let the engine cool down or put on ice pack on the distributor for a few minutes , the spark will come back then the engine start again.
This is just a though since you checked and replace most items but not the distributor yet. Good luck.
:)

One thing I always suggest is that you find someone who has the same engine as you, and ask them to try their ECU in your car. If it works - you know you have a faulty ECU. If it acts the same way - you know your ECU is fine. Just make sure you get the same ECU (same engines use same ECUs).

One more thing you should check is to make sure the distribtor is turning while cranking the engine. If not, check the timing belt. It is possible to have fuel pressure and no spark on that engine with a broken timing belt, as the fuel pump is primed when the key is turned on.

Thanks for the replies. I have been unable to get the engine started, so it does not appear to be an issue with cooling down the distributor and sensors inside to get it to work. I have checked the distributor to make sure the shaft and rotor are spinning. With regards to the ECU, I do not have another one available to swap with. I was hoping that someone had seen the response to the diagnostic check that I described before I go out and get a new ECU.

Hi, I've had the same problem with my civic.. It has fuel but no spark... Not sure if it's the distributor or the timing belt. I replaced the cap, rotor, and resoldered the main relay. I tried shorting the circuit on the passenger side and had the same problem you had. Either we both have faulty ecus or it only works for the generation of civics before ours.

BTW, I also replaced the spark plugs. I don't want to end up replacing random parts but am not sure how to check resistance in the distributor.

The same thing has just happened to my 95 Civic EX.Parked it night before last and it wouldn't start yesterday morning.No spark.Can someone tell me where the ECU is on this model?Or make any further suggestions?

The ecu is under the carpet against the wall near the passenger side door. Just behind the glove department should be a green housing with 2 harnesses. One harness has 3 pins and the other has 2. If you get a paperclip or anything that shorts the 2 pin wire and click your ignition to "II", it should show you some error codes on the cluster. I believe it was the SRS light that flashes but one of them on the cluster will flash. Long flashes represent the first digit and the short flashes represent the second.

Here's the codes:

0: Engine Control Module


1: HO2S Or O2S


2: HO2S Or O2S{2}

VSS{1}


3: MAP Sensor


4: CKP Sensor{2} - Vacuum Switch{1}



5: MAP Sensor


6: ECT Sensor


7: TP Sensor{2}

M/T Clutch Switch Signal{1}

A/T Shift Position Signal{1}



8: TDC{2}

Ignition Coil Signal{1}


9: No. 1 Cylinder Position Sensor


10: IAT Sensor


12: EGR System


13: BARO Sensor


14: IAC Valve{2}

EACV{1}


15: Ignition Output Signal


16: Fuel Injector System


17: VSS


19: Lock-Up Solenoid Valve


20: Electric Load Detector


21: VTEC Solenoid Valve


22: VTEC Pressure Switch


23: KS


30: A/T FI Signal A


31: A/T FI Signal B


41: HO2S Heater


43: Fuel Supply System


48: HO2S{3}



Please let me know if you get any error codes because from what I've read, none of the people with our model civics have gotten any codes but they state that it'll show error codes in the service manual...

Thank you evil civic.I'll let you know what shows up asap.

Evil civic... I found the two female connectors,one 2 pin and one 3 pin in blue plastic housings in a green wrap.I tried jumping the 2 pin connector with a paper clip and got nothing in the way of a diagnostic code in the instrument cluster.Does this tell you anything?I hate to take it into the shop cause they'll probably just start installing parts.

You did turn the key to position "II" ("ON") when you jumped the 2 pins and then checked for codes?

Yes sir I did.And just this aftrnoon,replaced the ignitor.Nothing

So you're not getting any spark whatsoever? It may be a faulty ignition coil. You've only replaced the coil? I have the same problem as you right now as I'm not sure about purchasing an ignitor unit... I've ran diagnosis for the ignitor unit and it turns out that all voltage/resistance going to it is perfect...

Not the coil .The ignitor assy.That was the easiest,least expensive and best first guess I came up with.Aftermarket.I worked in a Honda dealership service dept. for about 11 years and the ignitors used to cause problems then,just in a different way.When they were failing,the engine would die until it cooled off.
I left Honda in 89 and don't have any manuals to refer to for the "later" models.Was hopeing to get back to you with good news on the ignitor ,but...
May try the coil next.Let you know.

If all the circuitry (around the igniter) tests show up good, then the igniter is most likely bad.

CroCivic91... Have you had any problems with aftermarket ignitors?
Quite a difference in price!
Aftermarket-92$
Honda/Hitachi-212$
Trouble is,didn't fix anything.:D

I haven't had any trouble with them. I found this spare igniter that had NEC written on it (forgive me if I don't know what that stands for) and it works fine in my car (Civic '90) for half a year almost. Also, my friend has the same one, and it works for over 2 years in his car (Civic '91).

Hey guys... Just wanted to let you know that a new ign. Coil solved my problem.
Thanks for your help/input.
Sincerely,copen

Can you now take your old ignition coil and run the tests in the FAQ on it, and report back what you got?

Yessir,here you are... Between A and B, 80ohms. Between A and sec. windings,
Coil tower,12.7k.

I just solved a similar problem with my 95 Honda Civic. Wouldn't start, but I did have some spark. See my post about 95 Honda Civic won't start. It also turned out to be the coil. Even though they can test out OK with an ohm meter, they can still be faulty under the high voltage conditions.

My advise from now on is to always make sure you have a good coil first! An don't rely on an ohm meter test, it will only tell you if it's bad, but not guarantee it's good.

Also, the voltage testing on ICMs is bogus; it's only telling you that you have the right voltages on the pins. It doesn't test the part itself. These can only be tested with special equipment. One reason I'd sometimes rather have points!

Mike... When I worked at the local Honda shop some years back and had to refer to the factor service manuals,you would follow the diagnostic procedure
Step by step and at the end it would say,if all checks out good,replace part with a known good part.I'm not into HP engines and agree with you about
Points and cond.Like to keep it simple.:D
By the way,which of the non-factory manuals do you consider to be the best?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MikeSebastopol

Also, the voltage testing on ICMs is bogus; it's only telling you that you have the right voltages on the pins. It doesn't test the part itself. These can only be tested with special equipment. One reason I'd sometimes rather have points!

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It is not bogus, you just have to read more closely.

It says that if all tests turn out good, it means all the wiring around the igniter unit is fine. It also goes to say that if your coil is good, and your wiring turns out fine, then it's most likely a faulty igniter unit.

I have found the problem with my Honda. It was the ignition coil. The resistance checks came out fine, however, it was not creating the high voltage for the spark. Found it out of frustration as having checked everything else. Final step was going to be replace the distributor, but did not have to. Thanks for the help everyone

Quote:

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Originally Posted by honda6119

I am having problems with getting my 1994 Honda Civic EX to start. I am getting no spark at the spark plugs, but I am getting fuel to them. I have read through the FAQ listed in the forum on the subject. I have replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor, distributor cap and Igniter Module. I have checked the coil resistance and found it to be in spec. I have also run the resistance checks on the sensors inside the distributor and have found them to all be in spec. I have inserted the jumper wire in the diagnostic connector to read the codes from the ECM. The response that I got was that the Check Engine Light stayed on continuously (no flashing of any kind) and the SRS light flashed steadily (no pattern for reading a number). I have removed power (disconnected battery), rerun the test, and got the same response. This condition is not identified in the Haynes manual that I am using. Can anyone provide any guidance? Sounds like the ECM is bad (not much else to replace, unless the distributor sensors can pass the resistance check and still be bad).

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I just had problem with 1992 accord ex. Replaced the distributor and it fired right up. Wiring harness goes bad often from what i hear, but not necessarily on the same vehicle

Hey, I just replaced my rotor, cap, ignitor unit, ignition coil, battery, and resoldered my main relay... No spark is being produced... My 7.5v fuse in the front is blown and when I try to place in another one, it just blows. The radio and clock's blk/red wire (switches on when the car is turned to ignition I) seems to be shorted. The corner lights were rewired as well. I'm getting fuel as I flooded my engine already... The only thing left is the distributor harness, spark plug wires, or the ecu... Perhaps I've been working around the problem and should've replaced the entire distributor... Does anyone know how to diagnose the distributor harness?:confused:

Try to find everything on the blown fuse circuit and separate the connectors.
Check for short to ground with a ohms meter at the line side of the connector.Or you might locate a problem just by removing a certain load,light, horn or whatever,by process of elimination.
If your car has been wrecked you might want to start in that area.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CroCivic91

It is not bogus, you just have to read more closely.

It says that if all tests turn out good, it means all the wiring around the igniter unit is fine. It also goes to say that if your coil is good, and your wiring turns out fine, then it's most likely a faulty igniter unit.

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My Haynes Repair Manual (Honda Civic & del Sol - 1992 through 1995) doesn't say that. It says "If the ICM fails either of the above checks, replace it." The above checks was the wiring testing I described, so I say it is bogus. Replacing the ICM at this point would be pointless, since it is the wiring that has a problem. Perhaps other repair manuals say something different, but not the Haynes.

Haynes manuals are not really as good as factory Honda manuals.

Also, think about what you said... imagine your igniter unit (call it a "black box") went bad. If all informations are coming to the black box, but no (or false) information is coming out of the black box, then the logical conclusion is that the black box is faulty.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by copen

Mike ...When I worked at the local Honda shop some years back and had to refer to the factor service manuals,you would follow the diagnostic procedure
step by step and at the end it would say,if all checks out good,replace part with a known good part.I'm not into HP engines and agree with you about
points and cond.Like to keep it simple.:D
By the way,which of the non-factory manuals do you consider to be the best?

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I've never been very happy with any of the non-factory manuals. In the past, I'd sometimes get a couple, to cross check againt themselves.

For new cars I used to always buy the factory manual, but they've gotten so expensive that last 10 years. So now I buy Toyotas or Hondas, and don't have to make many repairs. Except for this one Honda.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CroCivic91

Haynes manuals are not really as good as factory Honda manuals.

Also, think about what you said...imagine your igniter unit (call it a "black box") went bad. If all informations are coming to the black box, but no (or false) information is coming out of the black box, then the logical conclusion is that the black box is faulty.

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I agree, the Haynes manuals aren't as good. My point about the ICM testing wasn't well made, in that I was thinking about my lousy manual and what it was saying. I should have stated this. My bad! Other manuals hopefully are better.

It actually said to remove the wires, then make the voltage measurements on the wires. And it said if it failed any of the voltage tests, then the ICM was bad. So the faulty information wouldn't be coming out of the black box, which is disconnected at this time. The manual should have made your point, that if the tests pass, and the coil is good, it may be the ICM. Of course, it also should have said the coil may still be bad even after passing the resistance test. I should have known better. A friend reminded me about high voltage arcing, which is the other failure mechanism for coils, and tough to test without more equipment (ocilloscope and high voltage probe).

I would change the coil I have had mine checked many times and show to be good but trust me after I spent all the money on evething else I went back and changed it and bam fired right up.also if you have a bad ecu the CEL (check engine light)will be on and how you can tell.if you check the codes and it don't show any or just stays on it's the ecu

Hey guys I'm having the same problem w/my 94 civic, (no spark) but I haven't tried testing the Ignitor Unit or the Ignition Coil. Can anyone help w/those items or what's the best way to test it?
I replaced the rotor, distributor, wires and plugs and the mechanic says it's the timing belt, but the rotor turns and from what I understand and without looking at the timing belt housing or parts, the rotor is connected to the cam which runs through and up to the timing belt.

Many tests of igniter unit, coil and so on are at this site:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
Ppk

Remove your ECM and get it looked at, it may be your problem.

Have you checked the ecu sensor ?

I have a 1994 DX with a 1.5L engine that is doing the same thing. I asked a member of my church who owns a local garage. He told me without hesitation to buy a distributor. The modulator is bad and the entire distributor must be replaced to cure the problem. They can be pricey so shop around. Perhaps a rebuilt would be more reasonably priced.

God Speed in your repairs,
Pastor T.

I have a 94 Civic DX- no spark. New coil, rotor and cap. Tested Main Relay, everything is fine except no continuity btwn Terminal 8 and ECM A7. Is this critical? I opened the ECM and it looks fine, very clean and heat damage free. CEL is NOT on, fuel pump is running. PLEASE help!

Thanks

jsmith8, if the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the ECM is likely fine. Since your fuel pump also runs during this 2 second interval, you need to focus on the distributor. You have no spark because your Ignition Control Module (ICM), located inside your distributor, is likely bad. Replace it and your problem will likely be solved:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

It should be a simple fix.

Don't worry about not having continuity between Terminal 8 and ECM A7. This is a computer-controlled "Grounding Terminal." The ECM will ground and unground the second relay in the main relay, as required.

It's best if you don't piggy-back off someone else's thread. Start your own by asking a question; i.e. the "Ask About Cars and Trucks" orange button.