OK, measure from the 12V terminal of the battery to the kill wire at all ignition positions, off, on and crank. What do you get?

0FF - would expect 12V
ON - would expect 0V
Crank - would expect 0V

Allison,

You have used the term ignition coil and ignition module, I hope you are referred to the same item, which locates next to the flywheel. If you have taken the kill wire to the ignition coil out, it disconnect to other circuits... don't even bother to check other bundle of wires unless you CAN'T crank the engine.

There is no other contacts on the ignition coil other than the ground and the kill connector. I will have the answer for not getting spark when the engine is cranking if you can provide me the following three reading.


Check the following 3 things for me:

1. Use a multimeter, bought a simple one(cost ~10$ ) if you don't have a multimeter, give me the resistance ohm reading between the bolts holding the ignition coil and the negative terminal of the battery.

2. Disconnect the spark plug cable from the spark, measure the resistance ohm reading between the bolts holding the ignition coil and the spark plug cable's connection to the spark plug.

3. Give me the resistance ohm reading between the kill connector on the ignition coil and the negative terminal of the battery.

Thanks,

uchai:

(3) depends on conditions (off/run/start), that's why I suggested the non-conventional voltage readings on the kill terminal.

KIS,

On my question (3), I am not asking to measure the kill wire, it will be link to the ignitor switch and others junk. However, I am asking to measure the kill terminal on the IGNITION COIL and the battery (-). Of course the kill wire needs to be disconnected from the ignition coil.

Please do not confuse the ignition coil and the solenoid coil. The latter is simply a relay or switch.

uchai:

Well, that's a condition. Based on the schematic on Kohler's site, the kill wire does not go to the ignition coil, it's an input to the electronic module.

So, the kill wire is disconnected, what positions of the ignition switch? Isn't that going to matter too?

Kis,


What is the electronic module? Possibly that the electronic module is referred to the ignition coil or ignition module. Anyway, regardless where the kill wire goes to, we can completely ignore it. The ignition coil that seat next to the flywheel only have a pin connection and the spark plug cable, ignition SWITCH position has NOTHING to do with the ignition coil once the pin connection on the ignition coil is disconnected.

If you know what made up the ignition coil, that is breaking down to primary and secondary coil, then it will help you to understand the theory behind.

You can completely remove/cut all the wires on the tractor and apply one single jumper wire directly to the starter, you should still get spark by grounding the spark plug to the chasis, period.

It's a single entity that doesn't require 12V unless it has a spark advance module.

Assuming a correct and new lamination, all that should be required is a good contact to ground, a plug and a good contact to ground from the engine side of the plug in order to fire unless the kill terminal is grounded.

Totally remove the kill terminal and the mowers should fire. Let's ignore start for the time being.

As Mowerman says have a piece of rope tied around the spark plug boot to be able to pull it off.

The only other two things that may prevent firing is:

1. No or incorrect air gap between flywheel and lamination.
2. Lamination Installed upside down. Looks like kill lead mounted toward engine.
2. Verticle location of lamination relative to magnet. This should be fixed by geometry.
3. Bad flywheel magnets: To weak, poles reversed,

Suggest you start here:
Currency is about 0.003 thick. Just measured one. I seem to remember that you used bill currency, you will need 3 or 4 of them stacked. Go buy a feeler gage that has a 0.010 nominal value. Too small of a gap will do it every time.

Thanks KISS! I did use a folded dollar... I have a gauge---I honestly didn't use it for this... I will tomorrow.
I am 100% sure I put it together right... not hard to mess up with only 2 bolts. The magnet has good pull on it-it'll hold a screw driver no problem. I am not sure how to tell if the poles reversed... but since it has good pull, I can only guess it is fine.

That would be awesome beyond words if the gap at the flywheel is all it is!
I will try removing the kill wire again. I had it completely off the tractor a couple of weeks ago... twice. It didn't change a thing--but if my gap is off it probably wouldn't, unless of course it is grounded in the switch where I can't see.

I have the c-15... the next model up was the c-16 that has the advance spark mod (think they call it SAM)... mine doesn't.


Will try this tomorrow and let you know... I appreciate all your help!!

Thanks,

Alison

Some comments on the suggestion:

1. No or incorrect air gap between flywheel and lamination.

You probably have room to move the gap from 0 --> gap of a coin. It will all work, little weaker on some setting that is all.


2. Lamination Installed upside down. Looks like kill lead mounted toward engine.

Lamination is symmetric. No such problem.


2. Verticle location of lamination relative to magnet. This should be fixed by geometry.

Impossible to mount the part.

3. Bad flywheel magnets: To weak, poles reversed,
Too weak - very unlikely.
Pole reversed still work, current may be induced on opp polarity, still produce sparks.

Ok-I changed the gap on the magnet (your right it was wrong), and put a new keyswitch. I went to crank it over and blew the fuse immediately! Put a new fuse in after I checked the back of the switch wires, and it blew again! I don't know---tells me the old switch was bad--but now I have to figure this problem out... talk about frustrating... any ideas??

Thanks again,
Alison

You weren't supposed to replace the key switch. You were supposed to:

1. Regap the coil with a gauge
2. Attempt to start, if it didn't start..
2. Put a rope or ty-wrap on the spark plug boot such that it could be pulled off.
3. Disconnect the kill wire to the magneto.
4. If it starts - pull plug wire off to stop engine, probe in kill wire ckt.
5. If it didn't start - ?

Both of these things could have been done at the same time.

Tried those steps first... should have said that... it didn't start-still no spark---the gap was off on the magneto--fixed now. So I replaced the key switch--there is a ground inside of it that I thought may have been staying grounded keeping it from sparking.
Now I am just blowing fuses... I d need to pull it off again, check the wires behind it again... been at this for so long it is ery frustrating. I did try to pull the kill wire off again after changing the switch, but never got anywhere since it kept blowing fuses after that.

The only thing I can think of is it hasn't built up enough resistance to pass spark through (the magneto). Since I did have it gapped wrong initially. But thought I should have at least had light spark-had nothing.

I am not sure what else to do... something did come to mind that may or may not matter---last time it ran I had a flat--i bought 3 new tires for it... neighbor pulled it over to his garage and changed them for me... do you think pulling it and jacking it could have yanked something I am just not seeing? It ran before all of that!

Thanks KISS--I appreciate the help!

Alison

You can put a 12 V light bulb like an auto tail lamp, where the fuse goes. Shorts light the bulb rather than blow the fuse. Object is, to not light the bulb. The light bulb is a current dependent resistor. Old trick.

Alison,

By judging you following response:

... it didn't start-still no spark---

I think the spark plug is sparking all the time. However you always thought that there is no spark and concluded that "it didn't start because it has no sparks"

Try to touch the spark plug cable while cranking and I beg you will feel a good exciting shock.


Try to post some pictures, we want to see your Craftsman and you at work!

Kohler engines are built to last. One of the best engines beside Kawasaki liquid cooled engines for better performance small tractor.

Just want to follow up my previous reply. I think the timing is off. Sparks will not produce combustion if the air is not compressed. Remove the spark plug and peek through the tiny hole to check if the piston is at the top when the ignition coil line up with the magnet.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by walstra5

The mower cranks, and cranks...will not start. I tested the sparkplug, had no spark, so I replaced it with a gold/plat plug (upgrade from standard). I put in a new ground, in case the other is getting old--figured too many will not hurt-checked the fuse-looked a little dirty, but not blown. Checked the safety under the seat...not too sure it looks good...tried bypassing it (might not be recommended-but didn't know what else to do). I checked the gas line...took off the fuel filter---think this is my problem, but not positive how to check for sure....I blew the gas out of it, put it back on, put new gas in the tank. I put it all back together, and it seems it is not filling the filter. So I took it back off, put my thumb over the line and don't feel any pull on the line..no suction--I read in here about pulling the bowl off the carb to check for crap/water--is this an easy process that I can't screw up? Is there a fuel pump in this? I can't find my book...Not sure whatelse to try. Last year had the magnito (sp?) replaced...maybe a new fuel filter...??? got me stumped! In the meantime my grass is growing like weeds!! Any imput would be awesome!

Edited: OH, before it decided not to run it was having starting issues--so I replaced the battery (seems these things go through one every 2 yrs!) and new cable...it was corroded looking this year...brushed it all off. It also had a problem, probably unrelated, but who knows, once last year with blades having trouble disengaging....maybe another safety under there? I will try the carb while I wait for help--thanks.

Thanks,
Alison

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I am having this same problem with my craftsman mower. I am desperatly looking for the solution.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by uchai

Allison,

You have used the term ignition coil and ignition module, I hope you are refered to the same item, which locates next to the flywheel. If you have taken the kill wire to the ignition coil out, it disconnect to other circuits ... don't even bother to check other bundle of wires unless you CAN'T crank the engine.

There is no other contacts on the ignition coil other than the ground and the kill connector. I will have the answer for not getting spark when the engine is cranking if you can provide me the following three reading.


Check the following 3 things for me:

1. Use a multimeter, bought a simple one(cost ~10$ ) if you don't have a multimeter, give me the resistance ohm reading between the bolts holding the ignition coil and the negative terminal of the battery.

2. Disconnect the spark plug cable from the spark, measure the resistance ohm reading between the bolts holding the ignition coil and the spark plug cable's connection to the spark plug.

3. Give me the resistance ohm reading between the kill connector on the ignition coil and the negative terminal of the battery.

Thanks,

---

Uchia I have same prob on kohler generator I performed the test exactly like you asked question 1 is 0, question 2 is no reading at all,, question 3 is 0 can you help me rickh69

Alison,

Were you ever able to figure out your problem? I have a craftsman 16.5 Kohler command same problem with no starting but now it won't even turn over now. Could it be the ignition switch? Thanks for any help Charles.

Had the same problem. Plus would run then just quit, no spark. Removed flywheel and found the magnets came off flywheel and stuck to the mag . Cleaned all parts and use epoxy to glue back on, mark the spots they came off. Now it runs fine. Hope