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    lruhs's Avatar
    lruhs Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    May 23, 2005, 08:47 AM
    Plumbing
    Bought an old house - over 50 yrs old in town - sewer problems from day one - Backed up sewage - had plumber in and of course paid out a large sum of money for a continuous problem. Long story short - had a bunch of roots in the concrete pipes. Now that seems to be fixed - I hope.
    Problem now is toilet tank - Its leaking from the bottom of the tank where the screw and bolt is - I read some of your other articles and you said not to tighten too tight. One side is slightly higher than the other - slope in floor. When I look into the tank you can see the screwhead, looks like the water is seeping through. Should that screwhead be covered with something?

    Also since I have had my drain snaked the toilet flushing seems a lot slower - takes longer for water to drain and most times the toilet paper floats back up- is this because of the leak?
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #2

    May 23, 2005, 03:42 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by lruhs
    Bought an old house - over 50 yrs old in town - sewer problems from day one - Backed up sewage - had plumber in and of course paid out a large sum of money for a continuous problem. Long story short - had a bunch of roots in the concrete pipes. Now that seems to be fixed - I hope.
    Problem now is toilet tank - Its leaking from the bottom of the tank where the screw and bolt is - I read some of your other articles and you said not to tighten too tight. One side is slightly higher than the other - slope in floor. When I look into the tank you can see the screwhead, looks like the water is seeping through. Should that screwhead be covered with something??

    Also since I have had my drain snaked the toilet flushing seems a lot slower - takes longer for water to drain and most times the toilet paper floats back up- is this beacuse of the leak?
    Sounds like you have more then one problem. The tank bolts have neoprene washers UNDER the bolt heads to seal off the tank. How much play/give is the tank when you move it back and forth? It should have 1/4 to 3/8" play in the tanK. If you still have a leak after snugging up thev tank bolts then the spud washer, ( the washer between the tank and the bowl) might need to be replaced.
    As for your your flush problem I have one that most repair plumbers miss.. Look down at the bottom of the bowl. If there is a small hole, then that is a jet that starts the syphon action. If it's clogged the water will just swirl around and slowly go down leaving solids behind. Take your finger,(UGH!!) and run it around the inside of the opening. Over the years minerals build up and cut down on the syphon (flush) action. If it is rough or you feel build up, take a table knife and put a bend in it to get around the curve in the bowl and chip and scrap it clear. Next take a coathanger and clear out the holes around the rim. They start the swirling action. And last, check the water level in the tank. It should be 1/2" below the top of the over flow tube. And speaking of the overflow tube, Make sure the small 1/8" tube from the ballcock to the white overflow tube is connected so it discharges in it and that it's flowing when the ballcock fills. This is what raises the water level in the bowl. Also you want 1/4" of play in the linkage between the flapper and the flush lever when the flapper's seated. For a good solid flush they all have to work together. Good luck, Tom
    lruhs's Avatar
    lruhs Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    May 23, 2005, 07:28 PM
    Plumbing
    I went out and bought some new washers and screws and hopefully when changing them it will stop the leak.
    In regards to the hole in the bowl - don't have one - any other suggestions?
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #4

    May 24, 2005, 06:00 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by lruhs
    I went out and bought some new washers and screws and hopefully when changing them it will stop the leak.
    In regards to the hole in the bowl - don't have one - any other suggestions?
    If you don't not have a siphon jet then you must have a wash down type toilet. The flush action is determined by the amount of water entering the bowl. Take a coat hanger and clear the holes under the rim. They start the swirling action and add to the water volume that enters the bowl. You might also purchase a closet auger and check that the bowl is clear of any partial clog. Regards, Tom
    lruhs's Avatar
    lruhs Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #5

    May 24, 2005, 07:08 AM
    Plumbing
    Thanks Tom - I changed the screws etc. and still getting a slight leak - not as bad - should I put something over the screwheads sitting in the tank? I noticed that there was some kind of foam over the screws before I had the leak. I'll try the snake and coat hanger idea too.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #6

    May 24, 2005, 07:15 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by lruhs
    Thanks Tom - I changed the screws etc. and still getting a slight leak - not as bad - should I put something over the screwheads sitting in the tank? I noticed that there was some kind of foam over the screws before I had the leak. I'll try the snake and coat hanger idea too.

    Did you replace the spud washer? If you still have a little seepage then snug up on the tank bolt. Good luck, Tom

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