Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    lookingforabettersolution's Avatar
    lookingforabettersolution Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    May 31, 2007, 05:08 PM
    Crack in Drain Stack: Looking for Options
    Let me start by saying I know nothing about plumbing...

    Recently, we discovered a leak along a drain pipe that flows down from a second-floor bathroom. The amount of water running down the side of the pipes when the fixtures are running is a minimal but steady flow. We have had two separate plumbing firms come to diagnose the problem and both concluded that there is a "crack in the stack" somewhere along the drop through the first floor (where it is embedded in a wall) but before the pipe enters the basement (where it is exposed). Both plumbers believe the crack is in the vertical stack and not in any of the pipes leading from the fixtures to the stack. Just to rule out other causes, we had the second plumber snake the drain pipes and the water continues to leak at a trickling rate. The stack is cast iron, and original to the house which is 82 years old.


    Their proposed solution is to expose the pipe in the first floor and replace the section of the pipe (perhaps the whole piece) that is damaged. This would not be so painful to hear except to get access to the pipe, we would have to original built-in cabinets removed. There is no way to access the pipe from another angle due to a variety of structural issues (one side is cement block before you get to the wall, the other side has built-in cabinets and a 2-story laundry chute, and the third side has a series of wood studs). Both firms have cautioned that there is a good chance that we will lose the cabinets when we remove them because of the nature of the age of the built-ins (they are in great condition), and the way they have been fixed to the wall.

    So we are looking for other options. I'm wondering if there are any less invasive approaches to solve this problem such as:

    1. Some sort of solution or coating to pour down the pipes that could largely seal the crack, or

    2. A way to guide a "sleeve" up the inside of the 4" drain pipe from the basement that would then cover that leak (pipe within a pipe approach), or

    3. Some way to build a pipe around the old pipe (without opening up walls so all this would have to be done through the basement floor) by using a series of clamshell like structures and pushing them up the exterior of the pipe (the new "pipe" would have to be wider than the joints obviously for this to work).

    Are there any approaches like those outlined here (OK, #3 is a bit of stretch), that might be easier fixes that would allow us to preserve the built-in cabinets and avoid the major surgery of opening up the walls?

    Any thoughts or advice?
    robertva's Avatar
    robertva Posts: 249, Reputation: 30
    Full Member
     
    #2

    Jun 2, 2007, 02:50 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by lookingforabettersolution
    Let me start by saying I know nothing about plumbing....

    Recently, we discovered a leak along a drain pipe that flows down from a second-floor bathroom. The amount of water running down the side of the pipes when the fixtures are running is a minimal but steady flow. We have had two separate plumbing firms come to diagnose the problem and both concluded that there is a "crack in the stack" somewhere along the drop through the first floor (where it is embedded in a wall) but before the pipe enters the basement (where it is exposed). Both plumbers believe the crack is in the vertical stack and not in any of the pipes leading from the fixtures to the stack. Just to rule out other causes, we had the second plumber snake the drain pipes and the water continues to leak at a trickling rate. The stack is cast iron, and original to the house which is 82 years old.


    Their proposed solution is to expose the pipe in the first floor and replace the section of the pipe (perhaps the whole piece) that is damaged. This would not be so painful to hear except to get access to the pipe, we would have to original built-in cabinets removed. There is no way to access the pipe from another angle due to a variety of structural issues (one side is cement block before you get to the wall, the other side has built-in cabinets and a 2-story laundry chute, and the third side has a series of wood studs). Both firms have cautioned that there is a good chance that we will lose the cabinets when we remove them because of the nature of the age of the built-ins (they are in great condition), and the way they have been fixed to the wall.

    So we are looking for other options. I'm wondering if there are any less invasive approaches to solve this problem such as:

    1. Some sort of solution or coating to pour down the pipes that could largely seal the crack, or

    2. A way to guide a "sleeve" up the inside of the 4" drain pipe from the basement that would then cover that leak (pipe within a pipe approach), or

    3. Some way to build a pipe around the old pipe (without opening up walls so all this would have to be done through the basement floor) by using a series of clamshell like structures and pushing them up the exterior of the pipe (the new "pipe" would have to be wider than the joints obviously for this to work).

    Are there any approaches like those outlined here (OK, #3 is a bit of stretch), that might be easier fixes that would allow us to preserve the built-in cabinets and avoid the major surgery of opening up the walls?

    Any thoughts or advice?
    I saw something similar to #2 on TV

    Has your plumber looked into the feasibility of using a Maxliner? The web site indicates they are intended for horizontal drains between the house and the main, but it looks like something that MIGHT work vertically. Might be some equipment investment though.

    I saw the product used on the "This Old House" East Boston project program #2605 where a clay drain was having root problems (was shown in SE Virginia two weeks ago). They applied resin to a woven sleeve with a sheet plastic cover and lining, distributing the resin with a device that looked like the wringers on an old fashion clothes washing machine. The sleeve was blown into the pipe with a pneumatic device. Then the curing of the resin was accelerated by filling the sleeve with hot water.

    MaxLiner USA › Home
    Manufacturer:
    Max Liner
    450 College Drive
    Martinsville, VA 24112
    tel. 276-656-1225
    MaxLiner USA › Home

    http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/tvpr...umbing,00.html

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

Crack in Cast Iron Main soil stack [ 3 Answers ]

:confused: I just moved into a Bi-level house approx. 40-50 years old. It has a Cast Iron Main soil stack (main vertical sewer line). On the lower level I noticed that it has a crack that is approx 5"-6" long about 1/4" thick. Now I bought a new pluming book because of some other repairs I had...

My best friend is a crack addict [ 4 Answers ]

How and from where can I get legal help to submit my friend to a rehab center? She is 25 and because she is an adult I or her mother can't get her to go to a rehab center on her own but I was thinking that maybe legally she could be submitted to a rehab, please help?

Crack in soil stack [ 4 Answers ]

The main soil stack in my 40+ year old two story home has developed small crack. I have seen evidence of a very small amount of leakage in my basement over the past few years, but it was never bad enough to goo cutting into the walls to find the source. Finally it has gotten bad enough that it had...

Help me before I crack [ 1 Answers ]

OK I know this is not a lot to work with but I heard this song on a classic rock station, you know 70's 80's and 90's anyway the song sort of sounds like a gangster movie its got gun shots, squealin tires, and police sirens but no real lyrics, I believe the dj said it was a song from the band...

Drain line 5 feet long going into main stack [ 2 Answers ]

Hello, I am installing a washing machine drain line using 2" ABS pipe. The drain line will be installed within a 5 foot horizontal run going into the main stack. Within 5 feet of the main stack, do I need a vent line? Thanks for the help.


View more questions Search