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    j heath's Avatar
    j heath Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    May 16, 2005, 04:52 PM
    Rotating Cast Iron Plumbing
    1956 vintage house with cast iron plumbing has the washer pump out line through a typical P trap into a threaded connection on a 2 inch by 1.5 inch CI tee in a vertical run (up to a vent to roof, down into the slab and sewer system). Unfortunately, the tee branch points out into the laundry room and thus leaves the P trap and stand pipe protruding into the room and causing the washer to sit away from the wall.

    I want to rotate the tee and have the 1.5 inch threaded horizontal branch within the wall and thus have the P trap and stand pipe within the wall as well, rising to a typical washer recessed valve box mounted into the wall that also has an opening for the drain standpipe. To rotate, I must remove the leaded joint at the bottom of the tee and rotate 90 degrees. I believe I can remove the lead and oakum from the lower joint, and if the vent pipe is not too securely fixed, simply rotate the tee. Then I will need to re-secure the joint and do not have experience or equipment to re-pack and pour a lead joint.

    Sooooo... what material or item can be used to re-seal the 2 inch CI joint? As a washer drain, it is essentially atmospheric pressure, but a secure joint would be comforting since it will be within a closed wall. Advise?

    j heath
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #2

    May 17, 2005, 04:49 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by j heath
    1956 vintage house with cast iron plumbing has the washer pump out line through a typical P trap into a threaded connection on a 2 inch by 1.5 inch CI tee in a vertical run (up to a vent to roof, down into the slab and sewer system). Unfortunately, the tee branch points out into the laundry room and thus leaves the P trap and stand pipe protruding into the room and causing the washer to sit away from the wall.

    I want to rotate the tee and have the 1.5 inch threaded horizontal branch within the wall and thus have the P trap and stand pipe within the wall as well, rising to a typical washer recessed valve box mounted into the wall that also has an opening for the drain standpipe. To rotate, I must remove the leaded joint at the bottom of the tee and rotate 90 degrees. I believe I can remove the lead and oakum from the lower joint, and if the vent pipe is not too securely fixed, simply rotate the tee. Then I will need to re-secure the joint and do not have experience or equipment to re-pack and pour a lead joint.

    Sooooo...... what material or item can be used to re-seal the 2 inch CI joint? As a washer drain, it is essentially atmospheric pressure, but a secure joint would be comforting since it will be within a closed wall. Advise?

    j heath
    I have good news. I hope you haven't removed the lead joint because here is how I would go about your problem.
    Since it's the bottom joint that needs to be loosened,(notice I didn't say removed) I would place a strap wrench, ( a pipe wrench puts too much pressure on two spots, a strap wrench distributes the pressure) around the tee and if necessary a piece of pipe on the wrench handle for leverage. I would then start jerking the strap wrench until I felt the lead joint began to loosen up. When you feel it give a little you're almost there. Tug the tee around to where you want it. Now you have to reestablish the lead joint. You do this by renting a set of inside and outside caulking irons from a Rent All or a plumbing shop. Starting with the inside iron, ( the bevel part of the iron always wants to look towards the lead and away from the pipe wall or the hub) tap your way around the pipe. Now do the outside hub. You don't need to bang it so hard you'll crack the hub, just mark the lead up so the joint's firm. Remember it's the okum that makes the joint water proof. The lead just packs it tight.
    If there are more questions just click on back. Good luck, Tom
    j heath's Avatar
    j heath Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    May 17, 2005, 05:46 AM
    Experience counts
    Thanks for the suggestions. They make good sense and surely will be easier than taking out the lead. I'll let you know how it goes... j heath
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #4

    May 17, 2005, 06:40 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by j heath
    Thanks for the suggestions. They make good sense and surely will be easier than taking out the lead. I'll let you know how it goes.....j heath
    Don't forget! Easy does it with the hammer. Cast iron's very brittle and will crack easy. Let me know how you make out. Tom

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