[pmcgilli]

I've been reading through a bunch of posts and I just want to get some more input. I was driving my accord the other day and the engine cut out. Felt like someone just disconnected the battery or something. Lights and everything work just great. I had this issue 2 years ago so I changed the distributor and coil. That solved the issue then.

I pulled a plug and checked for spark - no spark in any plugs. I checked for spark from coil - no spark. I checked for voltage at MAP sensor - 5 volts. I hear the fuel pump go on and I hear the main relay click when I turn ignition to ON. The MIL goes on and then off. I checked for diagnostic codes by jumping that junction and no codes appear. I'm totally stumped on this one.

Any ideas? I will gladly walk through any ideas.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. Check all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter. Here's how:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Test the igniter and coil. AutoZone will do this for free.
. Disconnect the BLU wire going to the ICM (igniter). If the tachometer shorts out, the car won't spark.
. Test for voltage to the distributor. Turn ignition OFF. Disconnect the 2-P connector from the distributor. Turn the ignition switch ON. Measure voltage between BLK/YEL (+) terminal and body ground. There should be 12+ volts read. If not, repair open in BLK/YEL wire between the 2-P connector and ignition switch.

Hopefully, your replacement distributor was OEM. There have been at least 6 instances, on this site, where new aftermarket distributors for Hondas failed out of the box or shortly thereafter. I'm a firm believer in using a new Honda distributor housing, when the time comes.

[pmcgilli]

. Check all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter. Here's how:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Test the igniter and coil. AutoZone will do this for free.
. Disconnect the BLU wire going to the ICM (igniter). If the tachometer shorts out, the car won't spark.
. Test for voltage to the distributor. Turn ignition OFF. Disconnect the 2-P connector from the distributor. Turn the ignition switch ON. Measure voltage between BLK/YEL (+) terminal and body ground. There should be 12+ volts read. If not, repair open in BLK/YEL wire between the 2-P connector and ignition switch.

Hopefully, your replacement distributor was OEM. There have been at least 6 instances, on this site, where new aftermarket distributors for Hondas failed out of the box or shortly thereafter. I'm a firm believer in using a new Honda distributor housing, when the time comes.

Ok, did everything here and everything checked out. Didn't get reading on starter signal fuse - do I need to crank the car to get reading from that fuse? Will test igniter at autozone tomorrow. I should add that I did test a working distributor on here and no spark. And also did same for coil.

There is voltage at the distributor.

I'll double check the ignitor I have in there currently tomorrow at autozone. But everything else looks good so far.

Thanks for the help on this txgreasemonkey! What's next?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. Check MAP Sensor
. Clean main ECM ground on thermostat housing.
. Confirm you did check all under-dash fuses with a test light or meter.
. Check clutch interlock.
. Perform main relay harness tests:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post358044

. Replace main relay.
. Crimp female connectors going to igniter.