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Dang2156 · May 31, 2014, 08:52 AM

When I turn the key there is nothing. I have located the fuse on the positive side and it is fine. I cannot find the fuse on the negative side. My manual says there are (2) 20 amp fuses I have replaced the solinoid. I show voltage on the battery side with the ground connected to the frame at the solinoid. I move the meter to the starter side on the solinoid and turn the key and I have nothing. I have bypassed the seat switch and checked the brake switch. Please help.

crigby · May 31, 2014, 02:12 PM

Hi,
It is rare to see two fuses in most mowers. They are usually put in circuits that have enough amperage that the harness could be damaged by a short without them. One is usually in the circuit that supplies battery voltage to the key switch. Sometimes one is in the charging circuit if it has a amperage above a certain amount. I am a bit curious to know where yours are, but without your full model number, I am unable to look it up.
Are there two big wires and a small one a(not counting the trigger) at the solenoid? By that I mean ones that attach to the large posts of the solenoid. If so as is normal, are a large one and the small on attached to the side the battery is? The small one is the one that energizes the wiring harness so that turing the key triggers the solenoid and so it must be on the battery side.
Your next tests should be at the key switch. It is generally a red wire bringing in the battery voltage, so check there first. It will be battery voltage if it has no safety switches in between, which is usually not the case. From there the battery voltage travels through the switch when turned to the On position and through the respective safety switches (seat, brake and PTO/blade) to reach the trigger of the solenoid (the small post one the side.) Looking at the color of the wire on the trigger post could clue you into its color at the switches; often it is blue or purple. If you have and electric clutch, you will have a switch with circuits two circuits that could have battery voltage, so that complicates things. Again it is helpful to supply that 11 alphanumeric character model number for accuracy.
Hope that gets you started.
Peace,
Clarke

Dang2156 · Jun 1, 2014, 05:20 AM

Model #13AT609G76637747.
I purchased this new in 2004.
I thought it was rare to have two fuses also but it is in the schematic. Two red wires on the solenoid one from the battery and the other going to the starter. There is a small wire connected to the spade terminal. I did hook the solenoid up backwards, according to the instructions on the package, when I changed it. Does that mess up the part or just not work?
I will check into the key switch.

crigby · Jun 2, 2014, 05:15 AM

Hi,
Looked at the schematic and I go back to say to be sure the smaller red wire with the eyelet is on the battery side. Make sure battery voltage is at the switch at the red with white stripe wire. Then it can be tracked down on the orange and orange with white stripe wires through the switches.
Peace,
Clarke
PS Second fuse is in the headlight circuit.

Dang2156 · Jun 8, 2014, 08:43 AM

Okay. I checked the wires at the key switch and there was voltage. Traced the ORG and ORG/Wht wires. Everything seemed fine. Plugged the connector back onto the key switch. I turned the key and the engine began to crank. I did get it started and it runs smooth. However, it cranks kind of slow and makes a bit of a whining sound and then turns over. I checked the voltage drop on the battery and it drops to about 11.8 volts. That doesn't seem to bad to me. Thoughts? In your expert opinion do you think the starter might be going bad? Thoughts? Thanks for your help.

crigby · Jun 13, 2014, 06:21 PM

Hi,
Think you just got a lesson in galvanic corrosion. Dissimilar metals create an electric potential between them when in contact, especially when in electrical contact. I could not count the number of times I "fixed" and electrical connection by unplugging it and reconnecting it. Ah, the ways of the universe.
I would check many other things before replacing the starter. The valve adjustment would be one. The condition of the pinion on the starter is another. The condition of the high current(large) wires and their connctors and the presence of white or bluish-white corrosion at the connector(s) especially close to the battery is another failure point. Lastly, I would use the starter till it just works no longer.
Peace,
Clarke

Dang2156 · Jun 14, 2014, 07:21 AM

Thanks again for your help. Do you think applying a dielectric grease to the connectors/connections would be helpful. If so what do you recommend? While I store my mower inside it is still exposed to the elements.

crigby · Jun 15, 2014, 03:58 PM

Hi,
I have yet for an application spot of mine to fail, but I cannot unequivocally say that it works since it can be such a nonroutine failure point. I have seen multipkes in the space of a week and then gone for months without another. It is the reason why I have always unplugged and reconnected electrical connectors first during troubleshooting. That and inspecting them in the process can reveal corrosion, acid destruction(saw that in an otherwise spotless machine once) and just plain shorting causing heat damage.
Should you want to use it, an aersol is probably easier to apply since you should apply it to the female connectors inside and to the outsides of both where the wires enter. All the usual players make at least one form like CRC, Zep, Permatex, etc. and many carry it online like Sears, Amazon, Grainger, etc. as well as probably all of the major automotive supply outlets.
Peace,
Clarke