[DDiscool]

I found the heater core and it don't turn red. Some reason the blower from where the heat comes from don't work. I need help please.

[ma0641]

Most likely a safety has blown or another item that is not allowing power to the circuit. Check Hi Limit safety.

[DDiscool]

Most likely a safety has blown or another item that is not allowing power to the circuit. Check Hi Limit safety.

Is there two blowers in the dryer or one? Thank you for helping me.

[parttime]

I found the heater core and it don't turn red. Some reason the blower from where the heat comes from don't work. I need help please.

Hi DDiscool, you really need a volt/ohm meter to determine what's wrong with your dryer. Do you have one and we can with the repairs, just post back. Good luck

[drtom4444]

Most likely it is dirty and lint deposits have built up, as it always does, in all the air ducts which will cause the main safety to blow causing the problem you described. The thermal fuse is behind the drum and positioned so that you will have to take the dryer apart to get to it. There is usually more than one fuse. You need a multi-meter to find which safety has blown. You will have to take it all apart and clean the drier out thoroughly or it is all for nothing. Every air duct will have to be removed and scraped and washed out to remove baked on lint deposits which bakes on like a concrete lining. This will burn so the manufacturer has installed the safeties to keep from having a house fire. The safeties are oval-shaped with a round center part containing the safety with two plug-on terminals for the wires and when they burn open, from the dryer being dirty and overheating, nothing will work, or it will not heat. Using an ohm meter you put a lead on each terminal of the safety, with one wire unplugged, and if it is good you will have a reading of about zero; if it is bad it will read infinity. On your dryer you may also have to test some thermistors if it has them. They are sensors that are around in different places to test the temperature and you test them with a meter set to ohms and compare the reading to a chart. They are specific to the dryer, but if you read nothing or a short you will know it is bad. Probably, once you clean it the dryer will run find after the blown safeties are replaced, too. Driers were the number one cause of fires at one time, hence now we have safety fuses. Look at: How to clean your clothes dryer. How to make it hot again. - YouTube to see how. Also look at these to get an idea about how to clean it: Mr. Appliance Tips: How to Clean Your Dryer - YouTube ; Cleaning a Dryer Vent and Lint Trap - YouTube
Electric Clothes Dryers Dryer vent cleaning prevents fires - YouTube and: Cleaning out a dryer with top lint cleanout - YouTube
Cleaning out a dryer: By a woman 2 of 2 - YouTube
When you finish cleaning the drier it is best to also replace the belt, too, because you do not want to have to disassemble it all over again and if the belt is over two years old you should replace it, and you will have to grease all bearings with white lithium hi-temp grease. Here are some manuals:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...l%20Dryers.zip
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...e%20Manual.pdf

[DDiscool]

[QUOTE=drtom4444;3646201]Most likely it is dirty and lint deposits have built up, as it always does, in all the air ducts which will cause the main safety to blow causing the problem you described. The thermal fuse is behind the drum and positioned so that you will have to take the dryer apart to get to it. There is usually more than one fuse. You need a multi-meter to find which safety has blown. You will have to take it all apart and clean the drier out thoroughly or it is all for nothing. Every air duct will have to be removed and scraped and washed out to remove baked on lint deposits which bakes on like a concrete lining. This will burn so the manufacturer has installed the safeties to keep from having a house fire. The safeties are oval-shaped with a round center part containing the safety with two plug-on terminals for the wires and when they burn open, from the dryer being dirty and overheating, nothing will work, or it will not heat. Using an ohm meter you put a lead on each terminal of the safety, with one wire unplugged, and if it is good you will have a reading of about zero; if it is bad it will read infinity. On your dryer you may also have to test some thermistors if it has them. They are sensors that are around in different places to test the temperature and you test them with a meter set to ohms and compare the reading to a chart. They are specific to the dryer, but if you read nothing or a short you will know it is bad. Probably, once you clean it the dryer will run find after the blown safeties are replaced, too. Driers were the number one cause of fires at one time, hence now we have safety fuses. Look at: How to clean your clothes dryer. How to make it hot again. - YouTube to see how. Also look at these to get an idea about how to clean it: Mr. Appliance Tips: How to Clean Your Dryer - YouTube ; Cleaning a Dryer Vent and Lint Trap - YouTube
Electric Clothes Dryers Dryer vent cleaning prevents fires - YouTube and: Cleaning out a dryer with top lint cleanout - YouTube
Cleaning out a dryer: By a woman 2 of 2 - YouTube
When you finish cleaning the drier it is best to also replace the belt, too, because you do not want to have to disassemble it all over again and if the belt is over two years old you should replace it, and you will have to grease all bearings with white lithium hi-temp grease. Here are some manuals:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...l%20Dryers.zip
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...e%20Manual.pdf[/QUOTE

I bought a multi-meter and took the whole dryer apart and found out it was my thermal cut off switch fuse blown
So I replaced the cut off switch and the hi limit thermostat and belt.

It's a shame that people actually have to break down the whole dryer
To get to one fuse, but what can we say Kenmore is a good laundry product.
Anyway thanks for helping me and my family on getting the dryer fixed.
It works like a champ.

[DDiscool]

[QUOTE=DDiscool;3646894]

Most likely it is dirty and lint deposits have built up, as it always does, in all the air ducts which will cause the main safety to blow causing the problem you described. The thermal fuse is behind the drum and positioned so that you will have to take the dryer apart to get to it. There is usually more than one fuse. You need a multi-meter to find which safety has blown. You will have to take it all apart and clean the drier out thoroughly or it is all for nothing. Every air duct will have to be removed and scraped and washed out to remove baked on lint deposits which bakes on like a concrete lining. This will burn so the manufacturer has installed the safeties to keep from having a house fire. The safeties are oval-shaped with a round center part containing the safety with two plug-on terminals for the wires and when they burn open, from the dryer being dirty and overheating, nothing will work, or it will not heat. Using an ohm meter you put a lead on each terminal of the safety, with one wire unplugged, and if it is good you will have a reading of about zero; if it is bad it will read infinity. On your dryer you may also have to test some thermistors if it has them. They are sensors that are around in different places to test the temperature and you test them with a meter set to ohms and compare the reading to a chart. They are specific to the dryer, but if you read nothing or a short you will know it is bad. Probably, once you clean it the dryer will run find after the blown safeties are replaced, too. Driers were the number one cause of fires at one time, hence now we have safety fuses. Look at: How to clean your clothes dryer. How to make it hot again. - YouTube to see how. Also look at these to get an idea about how to clean it: Mr. Appliance Tips: How to Clean Your Dryer - YouTube ; Cleaning a Dryer Vent and Lint Trap - YouTube
Electric Clothes Dryers Dryer vent cleaning prevents fires - YouTube and: Cleaning out a dryer with top lint cleanout - YouTube
Cleaning out a dryer: By a woman 2 of 2 - YouTube
When you finish cleaning the drier it is best to also replace the belt, too, because you do not want to have to disassemble it all over again and if the belt is over two years old you should replace it, and you will have to grease all bearings with white lithium hi-temp grease. Here are some manuals:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...l%20Dryers.zip
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...e%20Manual.pdf[/QUOTE

I bought a multi-meter and took the whole dryer apart and found out it was my thermal cut off switch fuse blown
So I replaced the cut off switch and the hi limit thermostat and belt.

It's a shame that people actually have to break down the whole dryer
To get to one fuse, but what can we say Kenmore is a good laundry product.
Anyway thanks for helping me and my family on getting the dryer fixed.
It works like a champ.

[drtom4444]

The dryers are built that way on purpose: So you may actually clean it out and fix the cause of the problem before throwing in a new hi-temp limit safety switch. You need to wash out the parts (except the motor and electrical parts) so that the air ducts are clean. If you cleaned it out well then the dryer will run for a year before needing to be cleaned again.