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    bwicks79's Avatar
    bwicks79 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Mar 9, 2013, 04:38 PM
    Free honda mechanics
    I just replaced a wheel bearing on my 95 accord. I am having truble getting the upper and lower ball joints to line up.. Please help
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Mar 10, 2013, 10:53 AM
    From afar, my best guess is that the hub is not fully seated in the new wheel bearing, which may allow you to install the steering knuckle in the upper ball joint but not the lower ball joint. Below is a write-up on how I install wheel bearings in captive rotors.

    "Captive" Rotor Replacement

    On many Honda Accords, the brake rotor is sandwiched (captive) between the hub and the steering knuckle, which requires removing the wheel bearing from the knuckle in order to remove the rotor. It can be a fairly expensive procedure.

    1. Remove hub cap, raise locking tab on spindle nut, and loosen spindle nut (32mm socket) ¼-turn with a breaker bar or impact wrench. Loosen lug nuts, raise vehicle (both sides must be raised), and support securely on jack stands placed under the rocker panels. Remove front wheel.

    2. Remove brake hose mounting bolts (2).

    3. Remove caliper, hanging it off to one side with a wire or bungee cord. Homemade Tool: Make an eight-inch "S"-shaped brake caliper hanger from 20 inches of 1/4-inch copper tubing. Remove brake pads, caliper bracket mounting bolts, and bracket.

    4. Remove wheel sensor wire bracket, then remove the wheel sensor from the knuckle.

    5. Remove spindle nut. Then, remove lower ball joint, outer tie-rod end, and upper ball joint, using a ball joint separator (KD Tool 3916). If you don't have a ball joint separator, beat on, with a large ballpein hammer, what the stud goes through. This will help break it free--don't hit the stud itself.

    6. Remove knuckle assembly and place in a large machinist's vise.

    7. If the wheel bearing will be replaced, use a large ballpein hammer (16 to 32 ounce), and the washer and bolt tool from the FWD Front Wheel Bearing Adapter Set (Harbor Freight 66829), to separate the hub from the wheel bearing. Homemade Tool: A very large bolt, 1.5 inch O.D. washer, and nut will also work just fine. The washer needs to be the same diameter as the hub's neck (1.5 inches). Beat on the bolt from the rear of the knuckle. A shop press is really the ideal tool to use. When the hub comes off, the front half of the inner wheel bearing race will be attached to the hub. At a compound 45 degree angle, use a 3-inch air cut-off tool to cut a thin groove in the inner race, being careful not to damage the hub; then, use a cold chisel and ball pein hammer to fracture and remove the race. There is not enough clearance between the hub and the race to use a bearing separator.

    8. Remove 12-point bolts (4) securing bearing assembly to knuckle. Pound knuckle area around bearing assembly with a large ballpein hammer several times to help break it free. If the bearing is going to be replaced, beat directly on the bearing to knock it out. Obviously, a shop press would be the ideal tool to use.

    9. If the wheel bearing will be reused, install four long hardened bolts into bearing assembly (M10-1.25 x 100mm, DIN 960, Class 10.9, Zinc Cap Screw, Fastenal #11113978). Pound them with a large ballpein hammer or use an air impact hammer, with a 1-inch hammer tip (Grey Pneumatic CH117), to separate bearing/rotor/hub assembly from knuckle. Remove hardened bolts from bearing assembly.

    10. Clean rust from bearing assembly, knuckle bore, and hub mounting bosses. I use a 1/4-inch 90˚ angle air die grinder with a wire brush or Roloc surface conditioning disc. Apply a thin coating of wheel bearing grease to these surfaces.

    11. Separate bearing/hub from rotor by removing bolts (4) with an impact wrench.

    12. Press hub into new wheel bearing, ensuring it's fully seated, in those situations where a new wheel bearing is being installed.

    13. Mount bearing/hub on new rotor, clean rotor with brake cleaner, and button things up. Tighten a new spindle nut to specification, as someone depresses the brake pedal. Spindle nuts are often tightened 134 lb.-ft. upper ball joints 29 to 35 lb.-ft. lower ball joints 36 to 43 lb.-ft. outer tie-rod ends 29 to 35 lb.-ft. caliper bracket mounting bolts 80 lb.-ft. and caliper pins 20 lb.-ft. Use a ball pein hammer and chisel to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the spindle. Check specifications for your specific vehicle.

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