[Ribo]

Greetings all,

I am a GC in California. Fairly well-versed in most aspects of residential construction, but I'm running into a bit of a problem, and I'm looking for suggestions/stragegies.

I'm working on my OWN house in this case. The house is 1950s construction, slab-on-grade and my bathroom remodel involves ROTATING the toilet approximately 20 degrees counter-clockwise to echo a design quirk elsewhere in the house. Behind the rotated toilet, I would build a false wall approximately 36-42" high so that the toilet isn't "floating" in the middle of the room.. FYI, the closet flange is exactly 13.75" away from the exposed 2x4" stud wall.

My initial idea was simply to attach a flange adapter and rotate the toilet on the flange, but my calculations show that I would have to create a "notch" in the wall of about 2.5" to accommodate the corner of the existing toilet tank. Even the narrowest of tanks would penetrate the plane of the finished wall, so the thought of using a conventional tank-style toilet would be problematic at best. I don't think an offset flange would be sufficient to achieve the needed clearance.

As I see it, I do have two other options:

Option #1: Install a commercial-style Flushometer-type toilet. The absence of a tank would permit the rotation of the toilet and I would simply build the false wall accordingly. Aesthetically, this is great for me, because I'm all into the commercial-look in residential settings, and damn it, it's my house! Water pressure is sufficient. I currently have a dedicated 1/2" PEX line to this toilet, but I could easily increase to 3/4" if needed.

Option #2: I believe I could adapt the existing vent stack (which is exclusively dedicated to this toilet) to a wall-mounted configuration. Again, aesthetically, the commercial look is an improvement. The problem then becomes what to do with the existing closet flange. Could I seal it off with concrete (first stuffing it with newspaper to stop the concrete from going too far)?

There is of course a third option, which is to saw-cut the concrete and move the flange as needed. I'm neither opposed nor afraid to do saw-cutting, but I am always looking for creative (yet workable and acceptable) solutions to problems such as this.

If you have any suggestions, I'd surely welcome them.

Thanks!

[mygirlsdad77]

Personally, I would say the correct way to do the job would be to cut and break the concrete and move the toilet drain to where it needs to be. A flushometer would be okay, but you need one inch supply for a closet flushometer, 3/4 is only good for urinals. Wall hung toilets are spendy (especially the power assisted tank type that you would need since you don't have a 1 inch supply for a flushometer, not to mention, it doesn't leave much option for different styles of toilets like a floor mount does), and a lot more of a hastle than you want in a residential dwelling, not to mention, to do it correctly, you would still have to break concrete to properly cap the existing toilet drain. I would not suggest simply concreting a drain of that size. All in all, I really think you best bet is to just move the toilet drain, and stick with a floor mount toilet. Im sure there are some other option out there. Hopefully one of the other pros here will pop in with their ideas.

Oh, just thought of one. Could you possibly frame in for a corner toilet? They do make toilets that are actually made to fit in a corner. The tank is actually made to a 90 degree angle. May be just what you are looking for and may work with the existing closet flange? You don't see these too often, Ive personally only installed two of them over the years, so if your looking for something different, with a bit of WOW factor, this is it.

[hkstroud]

The plumbing for a conventional toilet is 12" off the finished wall. That usually leaves you about 1/2" between the wall and the back of the tank. You are already plumbed about 1" further usual from the finished wall. Probably due to set in concrete type tile. With a 2" off set toilet flange that should make you 3" off the wall, 3 1/2" if you go tight up against the wall.

They do make toilets that are designed to fit 11" off the wall, even 10" if you are willing to pay the price. With a 11" you should be 4 to 4 1/2" off the wall, 5 to 5 1/2" with a 10".

Of course an off set toilet flange means chipping out concrete. If built in the 1950s it most assuredly means cast iron. Whether you can find an off set for cast I don't know.

[mygirlsdad77]

I agree, Harold. I believe some brands even make 8 or 9 inch rough toilets (pricey indeed). But if that's what it takes to make the existing flange work, well worth it in my opinion.

[Ribo]

Mygirlsdad, by mentioning the corner unit, I think you put me on the path to the solution:

Ariel Royal CO1008 Eco Friendly Modern Dual Flush 1-Piece Elongated Toilet

This is a toilet with an OVAL-shaped tank. Rotating on the existing flange will not be a problem, as the absence of protruding corners will keep it nicely within the confines of the finished wall.

Still, if anyone else has creative solutions, I always welcome them, and I thank you all for helping me out.

[mygirlsdad77]

Nice looking toilet. Keep us posted. I would like to see some pics of the finished remod if you get a chance in the future. Take care.