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    yotn_driver's Avatar
    yotn_driver Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Mar 14, 2007, 06:53 PM
    93 Nissan Altima XE starts like a charm, cuts out afterwards
    Hey everyone. I have a 93 Altima XE 5 speed that idles smoothly once it starts up, then when it picks up speed and the engine heats up, it shudders, stalls, and cuts out.

    So I have drive at about 15 but even then after a few minutes/say 4 miles of driving/once the engine heats up it shudders, and cuts out once more. Plus I popped the hood and the radiator fans don't turn on.

    *Please* help if possible.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #2

    Mar 14, 2007, 07:13 PM
    1. Check all under-hood and under-dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

    2. Check for codes.
    3. Check/replace the igniter:

    Zip Code Entry at PartsAmerica.com

    4. Check/replace the coil:

    Zip Code Entry at PartsAmerica.com

    5. Check/replace main fuel injection relay:

    Zip Code Entry at PartsAmerica.com

    6. Check for vacuum hose leaks.
    7. Check cooling fan relay.
    yotn_driver's Avatar
    yotn_driver Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #3

    Mar 14, 2007, 09:13 PM
    Thanks tx, will do.

    One more thing, if the rpm also wobbles erradically when I'm idle at a stop sign or light, and I give it gas and it chokes out, could it be the ECU? Because lately the driving lights'll flicker and the radio's stopped working too, and I can only stick a tape in to listen to any music.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Mar 14, 2007, 09:18 PM
    I don't really suspect the ECU, at this point. My focus initially would be on the igniter.

    You also want to examine the ignition switch--it could be affecting voltage to a host of areas.

    If you plan on keeping the car, I would check prices at RockAuto.com and consider just replacing the igniter, coil, and main fuel injection relay. These are problematic components in most cars, especially after 10 years or 120,000 miles.
    yotn_driver's Avatar
    yotn_driver Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #5

    Mar 15, 2007, 07:05 PM
    Hey tx, so an update for today, I checked everything, and replaced a few parts. Then I thought maybe it was the distributor cap. So I replaced that and it still is doing the same thing. Here are the symptoms in respective order:

    1. start the car up
    2. let it idle for about 2 minutes
    3. start driving
    4. 5 minutes, car acts fine
    5. 6. & 7. car shudders, mashing the gas doesn't help it stop, & wobbly rpm
    8. car cuts out about 10 seconds later
    9. I pop the hood
    10. I try and start it up, it sounds like *vvv, vvv, vv, vv, vv, pck, vvv, vvv, pck... pck, vvv, vvv*
    11. Engine pushes upward while I'm attempting to turn it over
    12. I keep trying, smoke starts coming from the breather, loud, screeching grinding noise eventually starts(I think it's from the starter)
    13. I stop, and wait... and wait... for, eh, about an hour or so.
    14. Car turns over, very weakly.
    15. I start driving again, 3 minutes later, the same processes happens all over again.

    A mechanic tried to start it up so much today he killed the starter. I'm at a loss for solutions right now. All I keep thinking is it may be the ecm/ecu, but I'm not quite sure yet.

    Any advice?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #6

    Mar 15, 2007, 07:11 PM
    Nothing other than what I gave you yesterday. Does your engine overheat during this process? Make sure this is not happening; otherwise, you could warp the head, wreck the valves, and cost yourself a bundle. If it is overheating, check the link below:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235973

    I don't believe the problem is ECM-related, at this point. Don't let any mechanic grind away on the car like that--all it proves is his lack of wisdom. A systematic analysis of the problem will lead you to the solution. At a minimum, have AutoZone test the igniter and coil for free. Read sections A and B for how to systematically troubleshoot ignition systems:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219438
    hiperf402's Avatar
    hiperf402 Posts: 106, Reputation: -1
    Junior Member
     
    #7

    Mar 18, 2007, 07:18 PM
    Check and make sure your alternator is putting out good current. If the computer in your car gets close to 10 volts, everything starts going haywire. Car computers can't function at this voltage. Nissan's are famous for bad alternators.

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