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    robbie76's Avatar
    robbie76 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Oct 22, 2012, 05:23 PM
    New pressure control switch for well cuts on and off
    I am lost. We have a deep submersible well. We installed a new pump 11 months ago. 2 nights ago we did not have any water. The pressure gauge read zero, We found the little pipe that goes to the pressure switch was clogged. We cleaned it out, we disconnected the pressure tank and made sure that pipe was clear. Turned the pump back on with zero results. We could not hear the pump run - so we pulled it up and inspected. We found a wire had worn through. We replaced the wires. Check to make sure the pump ran. Put pump back down the well. We turned the power on to the pump, water came through the system, and the pressure switch rapidly bounces back and forth between on and off, and the pressure gauge reads zero and the pressure tank is at 50 psi.What should I try next? Also how can the tank be at 50 PSI and the gauge at Zero? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. THANK YOU!
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,020, Reputation: 157
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    #2

    Oct 22, 2012, 07:14 PM
    The tank can be at fifty and the gauge read zero IF the tank is empty, which it sounds like it is. Assuming that the switch was working properly at the beginning of this adventure, then I'd replace the switch.

    How close is the switch to the tank? Should be within a very few feet.
    robbie76's Avatar
    robbie76 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Oct 22, 2012, 07:28 PM
    Thank you for the suggestion. It is a brand new switch. It is less than a foot from the pressure tank. It has always been in that spot. If the tank is empty - isn't 50 psi high? How could extra air get in it?
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,020, Reputation: 157
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    #4

    Oct 22, 2012, 07:37 PM
    Your tank is a bladder tank, meaning it has a rubber barrier about halfway up which separates the air above from the water below. The part above the barrier is pressurized. Yours is probably too high. It should be set at 2# BELOW the point at which the pump cuts on. Since you have a new switch, it should tell you inside the switch cover. If it is a 30/50 switch, then you will set the pressure in the tank to 28#. Do this with the power off and the gauge reading zero. That might very well be at least a part of the problem with your switch.
    robbie76's Avatar
    robbie76 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Oct 23, 2012, 06:09 AM
    Thank you... again. I let air out of the pressure tank. Turned the pump on. It appeared to work. The pressure in the tank rose from 28 to 50 psi. The pressure gauge still reads Zero - so it must be broke. I twisted the gauge off a little and water sprayed out - so it should be reading something. But still only a dribble of water at the faucet. The pressure switch is no longer bouncing back and forth
    1. Would the broke gauge do that.
    2. If the pump is bringing the pressure in the pressure tank up - is it safe to say that the pump is not broke?
    3. When I turn the water on should the pressure switch be kicking back on?
    4. Any words of wisdom. I need them!

    Also this may be irrelevant. But when the water first stopped, the breaker for the hot water heater had kicked off. I still have it off and the water turned off to it. Also when I replaced the pressure switch I replaced a connector and the switch and gauge now sit a inch higher than they did before. (which is midheight of the pressure tank)
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,020, Reputation: 157
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    #6

    Oct 23, 2012, 05:22 PM
    Replace the gauge, but it has no influence at all on the switch. It is only there for diagnosing problems.

    The pressure in the tank will indeed rise once the tank begins to fill with water. In fact, once the system is working properly, the tank pressure should be about the same as the gauge.

    It is safe to say the pump is working properly.

    The height of the gauge and switch is not a big deal.

    If you have a 30/50 switch, then the pump should pump up to 50#, at which point you will hear the switch "click" and turn the pump off. Pressure should hold right there until you start using water. Pressure will then drop to around 30# (slowly). You will then hear another "click" at which time the pump will turn back on and slowly pump back up to 50#. And so on and so forth. If that is what is happening, then you should be good to go.

    Do you know the size of your tank in gallons?
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,020, Reputation: 157
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    #7

    Oct 23, 2012, 06:13 PM
    still only a dribble of water at the faucet
    Whoops. I somehow missed that. Make sure the aerator in the faucet is cleaned out. If it is, then look for things like a filter, softener, or cut off valve. For a filter or softener, put it on bypass (most have a bypass setting) and see if that helps. For the valve, drain the system and disassemble the valve (easy). Make sure it is clear.

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