[LovinOne]

My car just died yesterday, won't start. Other half thinks it's the timing belt.
We took the valve cover off to check the top end (haven't gotten to the bottom side yet) She wants to start, but nothing happens but the starter noise when cranked.

I'm wondering if there is any chance it could be something else, maybe something simple we're over looking?

If he is completely right and it is the timing belt which way is the better, cheaper route... fix it or engine swap? (Its our daily driver & need to get it going asap)



Engine info: F22A1 SOHC 16 valve 4 cyl. 2.2 liter, DX coupe (Manual)

[TxGreaseMonkey]

When you remove the oil filler cap and crank the engine, does the camshaft rotate?

Describe the situation when the engine died. Was it just that the engine didn't start?

[LovinOne]

My fiancé was out showing houses (hes real estate) He was on a steep hill, started the car, rolled back in Neutral the just died. Made NO noise. No clink no bang no nothing. He tried to start her again & she sounds like she will start but nothing is moving.

Camshaft doesn't move. Just checked that.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If the camshaft does not rotate, when the starter motor is cranked, the timing belt broke or the tensioner pulley came loose. Regardless, since it's an interference engine, substantial piston and valve damage may have taken place.

I would take it to Honda, or an outfit that specializes in Hondas, and have them rebuild it. Get a written estimate first.

[LovinOne]

That's what we're scared of... so machine work to rebuild or just replace it

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Get estimates both ways and go from there. Call competing Honda dealers, if possible. For engine and transmission work, it's safest to go to the dealer.

If it were my car, however, I would definitely rebuild it.

Honda timing belts, for that generation, should be replaced every 90,000 miles or 7 years, whichever comes first.

[LovinOne]

I appreciate your advice! I would rather fix her, she's been a awesome reliable car (until this).

Is there anyway to find/check if there is head or valve damage w/o pulling the motor?

We are looking into a rebuild kit & I know a good machine shop near by

[TxGreaseMonkey]

By removing the spark plugs, and inserting a metal rod, the mechanic can get an idea if there has been piston or connecting rod damage. Valve damage can also be assessed without pulling the engine--simply remove the head.

If you get the engine rebuilt, make sure to install a new tensioner pulley and water pump.

[LovinOne]

I was just pricing timing belt kit (includes tensioner pulleys), gasket sets,. waterpump. If we're going to rebuild it, since she does have 250K miles on it, anything else you would suggest we check or replace?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

When you refill the cooling system, use the proper antifreeze and distilled water. This is the ideal time to properly adjust all the valves. Also, start using full synthetic 5W-30 engine oil (e.g. Mobil 1) and a premium filter (e.g. Purolator PureOne). Change the oil and filter every 6,000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first.

[LovinOne]

Thanks! You've been most helpful! I will post anything new here if something else pops up. Thanks again!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Let us know what happens.

[LovinOne]

I was wondering what transmissions will work with a F22A1

We found a good motor, just bad tranny. It's a Auto, mine Manual... Same yr but I believe it's a different motor/tranny? The other car is a 91 LX. Mine is the DX

[TxGreaseMonkey]

This is why I wasn't in favor of swapping engines. A host of new problems arise. Your old ECM won't work, you don't have a TCM for the new transmission, the fuse boxes and wiring harnesses are not compatible. It becomes a "can of worms."

Either rebuild, get an exact engine replacement match, or sell the car "as is" and buy a new car. Keep it simple.

[LovinOne]

OK thanks again!