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    mjcano1955's Avatar
    mjcano1955 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jun 10, 2012, 05:41 PM
    1997 honda accord have a hard time starting when it
    I have a 1997 Honda Accord. I have a problem starting my car. It starts pretty much all the time, but can take from one minute to 15 minutes, but today it took an hour. When I put the key in it sounds like it wants to start but the fuel pump doesn't kick in. Then it will take a while then it will and the car will start. Does anyone know about Honda's?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Jun 10, 2012, 06:02 PM
    Ensure the Check Engine Light (CEL) consistently comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II). If the CEL stays on, the ECM may be bad.

    If the problem appears during the heat of the day, the main relay may be bad. Cold solder joints expand when the outside temperature goes up. It's best to replace them every 125,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.
    mjcano1955's Avatar
    mjcano1955 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jun 10, 2012, 07:08 PM
    Thanks TxGrease Monkey.
    Funny thing is whether it's cold or hot outside this happens. It happens more so when it's humid or rainy.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Jun 10, 2012, 07:15 PM
    Does the CEL come on and go off normally? Are you positive the problem is with the fuel pump not running?
    mjcano1955's Avatar
    mjcano1955 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jun 10, 2012, 07:20 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Does the CEL come on and go off normally? Are you positive the problem is with the fuel pump not running?
    The problem I am having is when I turn the key the fuel pump doesn't kick on like it should to the 2 second delay ( I think that's what it's called) I have replaced the main rely and had the electronic control module tested. Do you think it's the ignition that's gone bad?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #6

    Jun 10, 2012, 07:26 PM
    The fuel pump should only come on for 2 seconds and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II). This coincides with the CEL coming on and then going off.

    If it works that way, I would focus on the distributor. Normally, replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil solves the problem. Disconnect the negative. Battery cable first. Be sure to apply silicone heat transfer grease to the back of the new ICM. I would also replace the distributor cap and rotor, if they have not been changed in 60,000 miles. Ensure the O-ring between the distributor cap and distributor housing is in good shape. I would remove it and coat it with silicone grease.

    Be sure to also clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing. It may have 3 wires going into a brass connector.
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