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    rbelanger's Avatar
    rbelanger Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jun 2, 2012, 07:05 AM
    Pressure tank/pump problems
    My home just over 6 years old and has well water. I have a State Pump Mate tank. The tag on tank says model: spmd20 and max working pressure: 100 psi. There is also a "Meyers" tag on the tank with Cat. No.: 2NFL52-8, HP: 1/2, GPM: 8, Amps: 6.00, SF: 1.6 and RPM: 3450. Recently I noticed that my well pump is coming on more often than usual and that when it does come on, the lights in the house dim/flicker for split second. I checked my pressure switch for a blockage and found the short pipe leading to the switch clear, but the underside of the switch almost completely plugged. I cleaned the pressure switch thoroughly and re-assembled the switch. I ran the water cycling the pump and things appeared to have improved, but very little. At this point with the kitchen sink faucet fully open, there is about 50 seconds from the time the pump shuts off to the time it turns on again. The pump runs for about 10 seconds at a time. The pump comes on at about 38 psi and shuts off at about 68 psi. I checked the pressure at the valve at the top of the pressure tank and it reads about 55 psi with the tank empty and about 65 psi with the tank full. Hope this all makes sense. Any advise would be appreciated.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #2

    Jun 2, 2012, 07:19 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by rbelanger View Post
    My home just over 6 years old and has well water. I have a State Pump Mate tank. The tag on tank says model: spmd20 and max working pressure: 100 psi. There is also a "Meyers" tag on the tank with Cat. No.: 2NFL52-8, HP: 1/2, GPM: 8, Amps: 6.00, SF: 1.6 and RPM: 3450. Recently I noticed that my well pump is coming on more often than usual and that when it does come on, the lights in the house dim/flicker for split second. I checked my pressure switch for a blockage and found the short pipe leading to the switch clear, but the underside of the switch almost completely plugged. I cleaned the pressure switch thoroughly and re-assembled the switch. I ran the water cycling the pump and things appeared to have improved, but very little. At this point with the kitchen sink faucet fully open, there is about 50 seconds from the time the pump shuts off to the time it turns on again. The pump runs for about 10 seconds at a time. The pump comes on at about 38 psi and shuts off at about 68 psi. I checked the pressure at the valve at the top of the pressure tank and it reads about 55 psi with the tank empty and about 65 psi with the tank full. Hope this all makes sense. Any advise would be appreciated.
    If you've set the cut in pressure at 38PSI then shut the pump off at the breaker and open up a cold water faucet to bleed off the pressure. Now, with the pump off and the pressure bled down, charge your bladder tank at 36PSI.
    Does that make things work better? Good luck, Tom

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