[ehofmeister]

OK I have a toilet that leaks around its base. I've installed many toilets in this house and others but this one is a problem. I've "installed" toilet about 3x now.
1) the flange has a crack where the flange bolt is pulling up - probably I either over tightened or had it not square in the PVC pipe.
2) the flange fitting is a bit high on the floor. I bought some plastic shims to try to level the toilet.
3) I've on ly tried wax seals but am thinking of trying the gasket that you glue onto the bottom of the toilet.
So without replacing the flange... can I put in a threaded flange bolt that screws into the floor? If I do this should I remove the small part of the flange by the crack that is being pried up toward the toilet base?
Other options?
thanks E

[doug238]

Sometimes when a flange is cracked it also cracks in a place the you can not see when the tension is off the bolts. I am opting for this as your problem. If you replace the flange and have the new one sitting hard on top of the floor you will eliminate many problems. If you try to fix this problem you will be compounding the problem of a cracked flange and a flange set too high and your toilet is more likely to rock and leak again. Do it right the first time and there will not be a second time.
Now, what type of pipe is under the floor? What size? Is it a concrete floor [i hope]? Is it a pvc flange? Is it glued to the inside or outside of the pipe?
Remember to stuff a rag down the pipe while replacing the flange so no debris goes in the pipe, then remember to remove it.

[letmetellu]

If this is a new commode that you ar installing and you have installed it three times I think I would look some other place for the problem, like a sand hole in the commode itself. Some times these commodes come out of the molds with a small hole or tension crack and it is not caught by the inspectors. But remember this only applies if this is a new commode that you have tried to install three times.

[ehofmeister]

sometimes when a flange is cracked it also cracks in a place the you can not see when the tension is off the bolts. i am opting for this as your problem. if you replace the flange and have the new one sitting hard on top of the floor you will eliminate many problems. if you try to fix this problem you will be compounding the problem of a cracked flange and a flange set too high and your toilet is more likely to rock and leak again. do it right the first time and there will not be a second time.
now, what type of pipe is under the floor? what size? is it a concrete floor [i hope]? is it a pvc flange? is it glued to the inside or outside of the pipe?
remember to stuff a rag down the pipe while replacing the flange so no debris goes in the pipe, then remember to remove it.

Thanks for the thoughts. It's 4" PVC. I can't tell whether the flange is glued inside or outside. I do know as you look down the flange pipe into the "soil pipe" that it's continuous - no step down or up in diameter (no ridge).
THis is an upstairs toilet in a 30 yr old house. Subfloor is particle board (2 3/4 in layers) and the exposed floor is vinyl.
One thing I've noticed when I take the toilet off after it has leaked is that it seems like the wax hasn't adhered to the porcelain - it's all around the flange and there are no cracks in the circle of wax. I suspect it leaks up over the wax seal not through it.
So perhaps it 's time to call a plumber and have the flange replaced. Would you agree with that?
E

[speedball1]

OK I have a toilet that leaks around its base. I've installed many toilets in this house and others but this one is a problem. I've "installed" toilet about 3x now.
1) the flange has a crack where the flange bolt is pulling up - probably I either over tightened or had it not square in the PVC pipe.
2) the flange fitting is a bit high on the floor. I bought some plastic shims to try to level the toilet.
3) I've on ly tried wax seals but am thinking of trying the gasket that you glue onto the bottom of the toilet.
4) So without replacing the flange ... can I put in a threaded flange bolt that screws into the floor? if I do this should I remove the small part of the flange by the crack that is being pried up toward the toilet base?
Other options?
thanks E

1) They make a flange repair kit for broken slots,(see image).
2) How high and is it cocked?
3) Why not a wax seal with a attached funnel?:
4) What's causing the broken section of the flange slot to be pried up? If you install a screw type closet bolt you simply place it where the closet bolt would go in the slot. It then performs the same function as a regular closet bolt. Good luck, Tom

[doug238]

Ehof, letmetellu had mentioned a possibly defective toilet. When you pulled the toilet, was water on the floor under the toilet? Tom has mentioned a spanner flange for the broken flange. Most repairs are done this way and it works fine. He also mentioned a wax ring with the plastic insert. This could probably keep a cracked flange from leaking. I typically use that when they have added to the floor and the flange is low.
However, you have mentioned that your flange is too high and broken and there is a ceiling below it. For liability reasons I strongly suggest you get the flange professionally replaced and seated directly on the vynil and secured to the floor. Then let the plumber set the toilet. This way you are giving the liability to another and minimizing your risk. When the plumber has completed, let the toilet be untouched for at least 6 hours. He should use either grout under the bowl or caulk. In atlanta I got a failed inspection for using grout but when I was in Florida we laughed at folks using caulk. I now use the 35 year water soluble clear caulk from home depot and glue the toilet to the floor. My preference would be grout though. It increases the stability of the toilet.