[Danlindsley]

I have a GE side by side refrigerator only three years old. The freezer keeps icing over and it looks like water dripping in the back of the freezer section. I have had a repair man replace the ice maker and defrost the hoses that enter the freezer. However, this has not solved this problem. The ice maker works fine and makes plenty of ice, but then the ice sticks together because of the moisture. The doors shut tight so it's not that. The refrigerator side works fine and we haven't noticed any food/milk going bad. Please help! Thanks so much! Dan

[drtom4444]

Your problem is either in the defrost system or the fan is bad; more than likely it's the defrost system. If it is a normal type it has a defrost timer which turns off the fan in freezer and the compressor and energizes the defrost heater until the terminator t-stat turns it off or the timer turns it off, whichever one is first. It's a very straightforward system that is easy to work on. The electronic ones are totally different, but normally when they go bad only the heater and terminator needs to be replaced. Just remove the cover to coils in freezer to access heater and terminator. Don't forget to clean the coils under unit, too. Many times the timer is under the unit near the coils or near the t-stat in the refrigerator section. Let unit thoroughly defrost before working on it. After removing the cover to coils you will see wires leading to a heater attached to the coils. On a side-by-side the heater is a glass rod with an element inside that you can see if it is bad; on a freezer on top model it is aluminum and wrapped around the coil that will burn apart often. There is a defrost t-stat attached by wire to one side of the heater and clipped onto the coils. It is round and has two wires, one to the heater and one to the power from defrost timer. With refrigerator unplugged turn timer until you hear it click and stop. Have wires unplugged to defrost heater and defrost t-stat and get the plug and the wire supplying power to heater. Put meter on ohms and put one lead on wire supplying power to heater and one to plug prong and if timer is good you will read about zero on both prongs – one to each wire supplying heater power. Then put one lead on each side of heater and if you have no continuity you need a new heater. Replace heater and terminator together and be very careful when replacing it, especially on the freezer on top model because if you bend the wrong thing you will break one of the delicate capillary tubes and lose all of the Freon which will ruin the unit. If the timer is bad you will need to replace it with one that matches. You can test it before you take anything apart by advancing it until the refrigerator turns off. Then see if the heater defrosts the unit and then brings the unit back on; if it does not then all you may need is a new timer.

[rcaldwell]

Here's your answer, Replace the thermistor that's attached to the top of the evaporator. It's the small white thing with two wires attached. Splice a new one in. If that doesn't fix it, replace the control board. 100 percent fix. There you go, Merry Christmas,

Rich
Western Appliance Repair Boise

[drtom4444]

I would check the parts with a meter before just blindly replacing parts that could be good. You should be able to call someone to see what resistance the thermistor should have and if it does not read the correct resistance then change it out. You definitely need to know if the defrost system is working before going any further and replacing $300 parts without knowing if you really need those parts. If it is icing up then something is wrong with the defrost system and if it's the heater element that's a cheap fix.