[Tonyr1084]

This model has self diagnostics that flashes code number four. That says I have a bad "Shift Mode Coil". What is that, where is it and how do I replace it?

The symptoms are that the whole tub swishes back and forth but the agitator seems locked to the tub. It never goes into agitate mode and the whole machine clicks and bangs as it tries to reverse the tub direction. It will swish one way for about a second or two then reverse direction. It does that during the entire wash, no matter which cycle I choose.

Seems to me it is not "Shifting modes". Why?

ADDITIONAL: OK, Thanks for all the answers (not). I found the problem if anyone is interested. Inside the Mode Shift Coil is a fuseable link. It's purpose is to burn out in the event of the coil getting HOT. Well, the coil will naturally generate heat as it operate. Due to the nature of this simple fuseable element, heat is the enemy. However, after having done some testing I've discovered that the problem is a "Design" problem. The coil will naturally draw 1.4 amps, which is too close to the two amp rating that link has. The link is also set to burn out at 130 degrees celsius. In short, the problem is that a 2 amp 130 degree fuseable link is insufficient for the job.

Given the nature of the failure, it's interesting that GE does not sell replacement coils for that model. They only sell the entire assembly for $125.00 (shipping not included).

The repair is not for the amateur, being as I have 30 years experience in the electronics manufacturing field, knowing how to disassemble the coil (not a hard task) without destroying the coil (a little more tricky) was easy for me. Spotting the problem was equally easy, a simple continuity tester (or ohm meter / DVM) will quickly determine the coil is good, just the fuseable link is blown.

I went to Radio Shack and for less than $2.00 I bought a new link rated at 140 degrees / 10 amps. I'm not happy about the 10 amp rating, but after a little calculation, it's acceptable for performing the safety feature its designed to do. In short, simply replacing the coil with a factory new coil will only result in a continuation of the same design flaw, which I now know that MANY people have experienced "Mode Shift Coil failure". Rather, replacing and reassembling the coil has resulted in a superior repair that will likely never fail again. In short, it's better than factory new.

Good luck with your repairs.