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    owenmjamin's Avatar
    owenmjamin Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 7, 2012, 05:47 PM
    97 Toyota Camry Fan running constantly after waterpump repalced
    I had to have the water pump replaced in my 07 camry 4cycl. The mechanic replaced water pump, timing belt pulley etc, cam and crankshaft seals. The car has 200k miles. It did not overheat when I brought it in. The bearing was going out in the water pump which is why I had all that replaced. The next day my mechanic said that the car was overheating and not getting good circulation and it was boiling in the radiator. He took everything off replaced the water pump and replaced the thermostat and checked the heater core. He checked all the line in the car and said there was a clog in the rear coolant line and it popped and it cleared it out. Then he said it was running normal, and not running hot. Now the cooling fan is running all the time when I turn the car on it never did before. Is this normal or do I need to see if something is wrong? Thanks.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Jan 7, 2012, 06:02 PM
    Check/replace the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Switch, not the ECT Sensor. To test the ECT Switch, remove the electrical connector. Using a multi-meter, set to ohms, check for continuity across the terminals of the switch with the engine cold. The switch should not have continuity, while the coolant is below 189 degrees F. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Stop the engine and check for continuity again. The ECT Switch should show continuity, when the coolant temperature reaches 196 to 203 degrees F, and above. If the switch fails to show continuity above this temperature, replace it.

    If the radiator fan runs all the time, the ECT Switch will likely show continuity below 189 degrees F. This situation will, also, require replacing the switch.
    owenmjamin's Avatar
    owenmjamin Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jan 7, 2012, 06:27 PM
    Thank you I will try that. Should I flush all the coolant again since they had just did that about a day ago when I got the car back?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Jan 7, 2012, 06:35 PM
    Probably not. I would test/replace the ECT Switch first and make sure it solves your problem. I do advise all people, however, to only fill their vehicles with the recommended antifreeze and distilled water. This prevents phosphate scale from forming, which is responsible for so many cooling/heating system problems. Good lab technique is a must. Be sure they also purged all air from the system. Air plays havoc with cooling systems and affects temperature guages, ECT Sensors, idling, and engine performance.
    owenmjamin's Avatar
    owenmjamin Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jan 10, 2012, 08:43 AM
    Thanks for the help after further checking I found the cover to the fuses in the engine compartment was loose and after opening it the fan fuse was loose, I plugged back in after checking it and the fan did not come one when starting and so far is running correctly. I guess the mechanic might had unplugged it to check something I don't know. THanks for the help.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #6

    Jan 10, 2012, 08:53 AM
    Thanks for the update.

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