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    stalledHonda's Avatar
    stalledHonda Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Oct 27, 2011, 02:11 AM
    Honda troubleshooting?
    My 2002 Honda Accord stalls suddenly while driving. Also, the other day it wouldn't start after stopping to get gas. The car will start again after 15-30 minutes. I also noticed a few times recently that the car seems to hesitate at about 48 mph. I had this same problem 9 months ago and the Honda dealership replaced the ignition swich. What is the likely cause?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Oct 27, 2011, 05:36 AM
    Check for codes. I would focus on the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Camshaft Position Sensor.
    ambiguous_chic's Avatar
    ambiguous_chic Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jun 23, 2012, 05:53 PM
    I have a 95 5 speed honda civic that just died out of the blue and would not start back up. I was able to jump start but while driving it made a loud sound and had a bad knock. It had oil in it. Barely made it home and turned it off. Now it won't start at all just clicks won't even try to turn over. Chanrged the battery, tried jumping it and push starting it and nothing. What could be the problem?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Jun 23, 2012, 06:05 PM
    Ambiguous,

    . Check all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter.

    . Verify that the Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II). During this 2 second interval, can you hear the fuel pump run?

    . Check for codes, if the Check Engine Light stays on.

    . Remove the distributor cap and look for orange dust. If you see it, the sealed bearing in the distributor failed. This is common on Honda distributors--usually around 90,000 miles. It sounds like a thrashing machine, when the bearing goes. If the distributor is bad, only install a genuine Honda distributor housing. Try reusing your old Ignition Control Module and coil.

    Do you feel you can rule out the timing belt slipping or breaking?
    ambiguous_chic's Avatar
    ambiguous_chic Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jun 23, 2012, 06:38 PM
    Since the gauge cluster doesn't work I can't check the check engine light. But I'm pretty sure its not the fuel pump and the timing belt.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #6

    Jun 23, 2012, 06:44 PM
    When you turn the ignition switch to ON, you don't see a CEL?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #7

    Jun 23, 2012, 06:49 PM
    I'm concerned that something may have seized inside the engine, since the starter motor doesn't crank the engine. Have someone place a 17mm socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt and try to rotate the engine counter-clockwise (CCW). Use a breaker bar for leverage. DO NOT ROTATE IT CLOCKWISE.

    It may just click, when you try to start it, because the engine has seized.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #8

    Jun 23, 2012, 07:04 PM
    If the dash lights just stopped coming on, that would point to a bad ignition switch. That could explain a lot.

    Therefore, check all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter and check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting:

    Ignition Switch Replacement

    1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

    2. Remove dashboard lower cover and knee bolster.

    3. Disconnect 5-P connector from under dash fuse box and 7-P connector from main wiring harness.

    4. Remove steering column covers.

    5. Insert key and turn it to "0".

    6. Remove two screws from switch and replace.

    By turning the ignition switch to ON (Position II), and using a test light, you may find that many under dash fuses don't have power going to them. That would confirm the bad ignition switch hypothesis. Have someone help you do this and let me know what you find.

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