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civicillusion · May 15, 2011, 05:25 PM

Hi, I had my civic timing done at a garage and was fine for a while. Then it wouldn't start up so I took it to the garage and was told the timing needed doing. The timing was done again and it started up, but then it began missing at idle and began revving high and low. The mechanic said the distributor is faulty. I purchased a new part but it was still the same. Can anybody please advise me on this problem? Is the mechanic conning me?

TxGreaseMonkey · May 15, 2011, 05:35 PM

Assuming the timing is correct, the problem is distributor related. It could be a bad Ignition Control Module (ICM) or a bad distributor housing (non-Honda). Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas don't work a AMHD--the remaining ones are often problematic and unreliable. I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings. Aftermarket ICMs and coils are fine, however.

civicillusion · May 15, 2011, 05:47 PM

Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Assuming the timing is correct, the problem is distributor related. It could be a bad Ignition Control Module (ICM) or a bad distributor housing (non-Honda). Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas don't work a AMHD--the remaining ones are often problematic and unreliable. I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings. Aftermarket ICMs and coils are fine, however.

I got a distributor part of another honda civic... Also the mechanic said that only one out of 3 pistons were firing, that's why he said a new distributor was needed.

How can I diagnose the problem? What should I do from here?

TxGreaseMonkey · May 15, 2011, 05:55 PM

It needs to be an exact Honda part no. match to the original distributor. Perform the standard spark test for each cylinder. There may be a problem with the distributor cap, rotor, or spark plug wire (ohm test). Shouldn't be too difficult to isolate.

civicillusion · May 15, 2011, 06:07 PM

Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

It needs to be an exact Honda part no. match to the original distributor. Perform the standard spark test for each cylinder. There may be a problem with the distributor cap, rotor, or spark plug wire (ohm test). Shouldn't be too difficult to isolate.

OK thanks for your help. Much appreciated.

One last thing I wanted to ask... I removed the spark plug wires individually while the car was running, nothing happened when I removed 3 wires, however when I removed one particular wire the engine switched off... what does this mean??

TxGreaseMonkey · May 15, 2011, 06:14 PM

That was likely one of the good cylinders. That procedure can, however, over-stess and damage the coil.

civicillusion · May 15, 2011, 06:18 PM

Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

That was likely one of the good cylinders. That procedure can, however, over-stess and damage the coil.

What do you recommend I do from here?

TxGreaseMonkey · May 15, 2011, 06:25 PM

Ensure the ignition system is in great shape. If you have not recently replaced the distributor cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs (NGK only) and rotor, I would do so. I would also make sure the distributor housing, ICM, and coil are flawless. This should solve the problem.

civicillusion · May 15, 2011, 06:27 PM

Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Ensure the ignition system is in great shape. If you have not recently replaced the distributor cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs (NGK only) and rotor, I would do so. I would also make sure the distributor housing, ICM, and coil are flawless. This should solve the problem.

Thanks a lot!! I will update on how it goes

TxGreaseMonkey · May 15, 2011, 06:32 PM

This link may help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post229012

To prevent misfires, be sure to lightly coat the porcelein portion of the spark plug, and the top electrode, with dielectric grease. Also, coat the spark plug wire connectors that go into the distributor cap with dielectric grease.