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    racingrick's Avatar
    racingrick Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    May 5, 2011, 07:05 AM
    John deere 116 won't move. Is oil wrong
    My john deere 116 won't move after it gets hot. Let it cool and it goes for awhile again. Bought it used. Could the oil be wrong? What oil do I use in the hydrostatic system?
    DG's Avatar
    DG Posts: 1,375, Reputation: 109
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    #2

    May 5, 2011, 08:58 PM

    Check your drive belt and make sure it hasn't streched out.
    racingrick's Avatar
    racingrick Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    May 7, 2011, 08:21 AM
    John deere 116 won't move. Is oil wrong
    My john deere 116 won't move after it gets hot. Let it cool and it goes for awhile again. Bought it used. Could the oil be wrong? What oil do I use in the hydrostatic system?
    racingrick's Avatar
    racingrick Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #4

    May 7, 2011, 08:25 AM
    Comment on DG's post
    I replace the engine crank shaft seal because it was leaking on the belt. At that time I replaced the drive belt. After the mower got hot and stopped moving while climbing a hill, I left the transmission lever in forward and dismounted the mower and looked underneath. The fan and pump are turning but the mower does not move.
    Thanks
    crigby's Avatar
    crigby Posts: 4,343, Reputation: 107
    Outdoor Power Equipment Expert
     
    #5

    May 7, 2011, 08:45 AM

    Hi,
    I merged the threads into one.
    You have an Eaton hydro drive unit mated to a Peerless transaxle. There should be a remote reservoir under the dash in the operator pedestal. The machine uses Low Viscosity HyGard if Deere oil is used. When checking the level at the hydro pump/motor unit, the spec calls for 5 1/2" or 140mm below the top of the tube. Some have a dipstick and others do not.
    Eaton says that the factory fills the unit with standard hydraulic oil with 20W20 spec. This can be seen at:
    Eaton models 6,7, and 11 pdf
    Peace,
    Clarke
    dbo's Avatar
    dbo Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Feb 18, 2013, 11:05 PM
    I had this problem once. Turns out there was only about 0.25 quarts of oil in the hydrostat. If your tractor moves, then stops moving when it gets hot its probably low on oil and losing hydraulic pressure when the oil thins as it gets hot. Also hills can play a role in this situation.

    The 116H (hydrostat) has a cap and dipstick for the hydrostat under the front of the seat. Fill with low viscosity Hy-Gard. When empty it uses 1.25qt. If you pour in too much you can use a brake bleed pump or something to suck it out. Or if you're a pro that doesn't require fancy tools, just partially jam a rag into the fill hole, overflowing it, and pull it out. Check the level. Repeat if necessary.

    It makes no sense at all to me that a belt would slip when it gets hot, but sticks when its cold. If that was the case wouldn' the same be true for my car? And why does my car belt squeak in the winter but not the summer? If you really want to test this theory out, then hit that belt with some belt conditioner while it's hot and see if it catches and moves again. Honestly though, my experience with belts is they slip less when its hot.

    One huge factor that can cause slippage is the pulleys. Look at a brand new pulley and notice the V shape. If the pulley is rounded out then that can cause slippage. If this is the case then I don't think it would happen only when its hot though; Probably all the time.

    Always make sure you have a decent air filter installed. Poor airflow will drag on the Briggs & Stratton engine, hard! It will effect the PTO, and the transmission on this tractor. An air filter for this thing is only like 7 bucks or something and makes a world of difference.

    Last but not least, check to see if your fan blades next to the rear right wheel are chipped off. It's a 6-fin fan on most models, and its all the hydrostat has to keep it cool. I think that part is about 15 dollars. If you want to get crazy, you could probably install a Dulane oil cooler on that hydro for 25 bucks and never have to think about that flimsy and un-guarded 6-fin piece of crap fan again. If you don't know how to do that, then don't bother or ask. Just replace the fan.

    Good luck to anyone with this issue in a 116h. I hope this helps someone else.
    crigby's Avatar
    crigby Posts: 4,343, Reputation: 107
    Outdoor Power Equipment Expert
     
    #7

    Feb 20, 2013, 05:56 PM
    Hi,
    Not to criticize, but you added a comment to a post that is going on two years old(notice date in upper right corner.)
    Peace,
    Clarke
    dbo's Avatar
    dbo Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Feb 20, 2013, 06:34 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by crigby View Post
    Hi,
    Not to criticize, but you added a comment to a post that is going on two years old(notice date in upper right corner.)
    Peace,
    Clarke
    Of course. I'm not hijacking the thread with my own issues. The thread is not closed or blocked off. These threads are just as useful to someone searching for answers as they are to someone asking a question, so I am adding information based on my experience with that tractor and the same issue. I hope I can save someone lots of time. For what its worth, I tried to mark your post as "Helpful" when I added my input. I don't know if it allowed me though.
    glb325's Avatar
    glb325 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Sep 12, 2013, 01:55 PM
    Why is my john deere 116 suddenly leaking hydro oil real bad? How do I take the fender pan off? The front looks like it is under the dash.
    crigby's Avatar
    crigby Posts: 4,343, Reputation: 107
    Outdoor Power Equipment Expert
     
    #10

    Sep 16, 2013, 05:28 PM
    Hi,
    There is a hydro reservoir inside the dash on the left.
    Peace,
    Clarke

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