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    logan176's Avatar
    logan176 Posts: 341, Reputation: 6
    Full Member

    Mar 19, 2011, 07:33 AM
    Basement French Drain System Layout
    2 years ago I installed a sump pump in my basement because water was seeping in. My neighborhood has a high water table due to a nearby creek. When the creek floods, which is about 1-2x per year, my neighborhood has water on 3 sides. Since the sump pump install I have also installed new gutters with downspouts that that extend 7 feet away from the house. My property is almost completely flat and the foundation only comes up about 20 inches higher than the ground so creating a slope isn't really an option.

    This summer I will install a drainage system by digging up the inside perimeter of the basement and connecting perforated pipe to the sump pump basin. I will be following the steps outlined in this article:

    I know that the best placement for the perforated pipe is at the perimeter. The only place I cannot get to the perimeter is where my furnace is. I know the best thing to do is temporarily disconnect the furnace but that area never takes on water and in a few years I will build a mudroom outside in that spot so I think not moving the furnace is a non-issue.

    I am attaching a drawing of my basement that shows the locations for the sump pump, the furnace, and the hot water tank. The red line represents where I would like to run the perforated pipe. Do you think the layout will work well? Do you have any other suggestions?

    Attached Images
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,818, Reputation: 1211
    Senior Plumbing Expert

    Mar 24, 2011, 05:21 PM

    Hi Logan...

    I see this exact layout done all the time... especially around the boiler and in my area around oil tanks, so in my opinion, all looks just fine here... ;)

    Since you are going to all the trouble with this the only suggestion I have will be to consider some kind of back-up sump pump.

    You can either install another regular sump pump 6 inches higher than the first one or you may even want to consider installing a battery back-up sump pump... run by marine battery.

    Also, from experience, I want to strongly suggest that you install ZOELLER sump pumps... they also have a battery back up system. Check them out at Zoeller Corporation

    Care to discuss more, just let me know, OK?

    logan176's Avatar
    logan176 Posts: 341, Reputation: 6
    Full Member

    Mar 24, 2011, 05:53 PM

    My uncle gave me two hydromatic v30a1 sump pumps. They seem to be really well made. I know I need a backup system of some kind. Since I have city water and not well water, I was thinking of installing the system that uses the city water pressure as the emergency pump. Any thoughts on that?

    Another question... if I remember correctly the weeping tile needs a 1/8" per foot pitch. I want to start the pitch in the corner diagonal from the sump pump. At a distance of 50 feet, that makes for a 7" drop from the highest point of the weeping tile to the sump pit. I believe that will put me below the footing. Is this okay?
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,379, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert

    Mar 24, 2011, 07:48 PM

    I have used the back-ups that work off city water pressure mant times. They pump about 1/3 the volume of a standard sump pump but go forever. They are better than not having a back-up or an electric back-up.
    logan176's Avatar
    logan176 Posts: 341, Reputation: 6
    Full Member

    Jul 26, 2011, 04:50 PM

    Can anyone help me out with the pitch question? At a pitch of 1/8" per foot, the entire pipe will drop a total of 7" over the course of 50'. This will put me below the footing. Is this okay?
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
    Home Improvement & Construction Expert

    Jul 26, 2011, 05:45 PM

    Don't think I dig below the bottom of the footer. If you remove the earth next and lower than the footer, the earth under the footer can now move to the side (to where you disturbed the soil) and weaken the footer. All perimeter drains I have seen are installed basically level. You are not trying to drain away all water as much as you are giving the water some place to go. The underground water is under pressure from gravity and will force the water through the pipe, just like it has been forcing it through your walls.
    logan176's Avatar
    logan176 Posts: 341, Reputation: 6
    Full Member

    Jul 31, 2011, 06:50 PM
    Ok, here's another question... before I cover up the drainage pipes with gravel and concrete I need to drill holes in the bottom row of block. Then I'll use j-drain, the dimpled plastic stuff, to divert any water from the holes down to the drainage pipe.

    The j-drain has a plastic side and a cloth side. When used on the exterior of the foundation I've been told that the cloth faces away from the foundation to hold back the dirt. But since I'm using this stuff on the inside, which way should the fabric face... towards the wall or away from it?

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