[help98hond]

I am having touble with my car starting what could be the problem? My 98 Honda 4dr Accord DX has been acting up lately. It as 120000 miles and the problem just started about a week ago. It has been having trouble starting. When it's cold it starts up fine but when I go to drive it for like 15min or more like to go to get some gas or do a quick run to the store I come back and I it takes me like a 2nd or sometimes a 3rd try to start it up. I read about this "Main Relay Switch" and I did a test it was kind of hard to hear the clicks but I put in the key and I turned it over and after the check in engine light came on there was a click and after that I got to start it there is another click but that was all I heard two clicks. I read that it is supposed to have 4 clicks? But the time when it doesn't start the first time all I can hear was the click after the check engine light came off nothing more. Please if someone can help me I would greatly appreciate it so much and thank you. I also heard about a recall on 98 Honda Accord dealing with the ignition switch and the car stalling. My car so far does not stall in the middle of driving, " knock on wood" and I hope by saying that I don't jinx it now. But I guess I can take my car in if it's free. Has anyone heard about the recall? But if someone knows anything or have had similar problems please I am asking for your help.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Read sections A and B in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ics-46563.html

Perform the 3 basic diagnostic tests and the K-Test on your ECM. If your car passes these tests, focus on replacing the Ignition Control Module (igniter), coil, and rotor inside the distributor. Because of the age and mileage on your car, these items need to be replaced anyhow. I would also recommend replacing the distributor cap and NGK spark plugs.

[help98hond]

Read sections A and B in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ics-46563.html

Perform the 3 basic diagnostic tests and the K-Test on your ECM. If your car passes these tests, focus on replacing the Ignition Control Module (igniter), coil, and rotor inside the distributor. Because of the age and mileage on your car, these items need to be replaced anyhow. I would also recommend replacing the distributor cap and NGK spark plugs.

Hey thank you for responding. I didn't do the test (k-test for the ECM) yet but I tried to listen to the clicks and this is what I recorded. I turned the key and then the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT came on and then the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT turned off. When the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT turned off that is when I heard the first CLICK. The CHECK ENGINE LIGHT turning off and hearing the first CLICK happened at the same time. I then did hear a winding noise towards the back of the car maybe in the trunk area and I think that might have been the FUEL PUMP. After that I went to start it and it started fine and then I heard the last CLICK. Sorry if I forgot to mention this earlier and I don't know if this new info makes any difference I just figured I mention it before I do the K-Test. But please get back to me I really appreciate this. This is my only car. Thanks again!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

That's good news. Most likely your ECM is OK. This will allow you to focus on replacing the igniter, coil, rotor, distributor cap, spark plugs, and spark plug wires. Remember to coat the back of the igniter and the 4 male connectors with silicone grease, before installation. This is standard stuff and can be done without much touble. Since this is your only car, you need reliability. I'm not trying to spend your money for you. If trouble persists after installing these new parts, run the K-Test each time it acts up. It could be an intermittent problem with the ECM and it might show up during the test. If it does, then you may want to install a remanufactured ECM. Intermittent problems are also characteristic of main relays, as you already know. As a rule, these tend to show up more during hot weather, when bad solder joints are affected most. A bad ignition switch can also cause intermittent problems, so you may want to check that out. To keep the cost down, check aftermarket prices at places like RockAuto.com.

[help98hond]

That's good news. Most likely your ECM is OK. This will allow you to focus on replacing the igniter, coil, rotor, distributor cap, and spark plugs. Remember to coat the back of the igniter and the 4 male connectors with silicone grease, before installation. This is standard stuff and can be done without much touble. If trouble persists after installing these new parts, run the K-Test each time it acts up. It could be an intermittent problem with the ECM. If it is, then you may want to install a remanufactured ECM.

Ok great at least the ECM is OK. Now does that also mean I should ignore this " Main Switch Relay" and just stick to replacing the igniter, coil, rotor, distributor cap, and spark plugs? I keep going back to the " Main Switch Relay" because I read the other asked questions and a lot of others had similar problems and the "Main Switch Relay" solved the problem. My 98 Honda Accord sounds like it's in the early stage of "Main Switch Relay" problems. I drove it this morning and it started up fine. I took it out for about 45 min and came back and parked it and shut it off. Right after that I tried restarting it again and it took me the 3rd try to start up all the clicks were all the same.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If it were my car, I would install a new main relay. They are a very important, but problematic component. Since you have 120,000 miles on your Accord, if you replaced all of these key electricial components, you should be good for another 120,000 miles. If you buy aftermarket parts and do the labor yourself, it's not that expensive to do it all. The real expense is if you decide to buy a new car.

[help98hond]

If it were my car, I would install a new main relay. They are a very important, but problematic component. Since you have 120,000 miles on your Accord, if you replaced all of these key electricial components, you should be good for another 120,000 miles. If you buy aftermarket parts and do the labor yourself, it's not that expensive to do it all. The real expense is if you decide to buy a new car.

First of all Thank you very much for taking the time and for your helpful info. I'm still reading others similar problems at the moment and I haven't came to a conclusion yet on what I'm going to do. I'm a little frustrated because some have the same problems with their 98 Honda but then solved it with different solutions. Very confusing. They also had the same results of test clicks on the main relay as I did and some were different. Like I said very confusing. I wish there was an outline test guide on the main switch relay that shows step by step test clicks. For example if it does this it's bad if it doesn't do this it's something else. It's sad that some take it into an actual HONDA dealership and they don't even know what the problem is. Now I'm concerned about this recall on the ignition and that might be the my car's problem as well. On one question that's how someone fixed their same problem. I don't know that much about cars I am knowledgeable about the basics but I remain careful with my decision because money is also a factor. If there is a problem with my car I usually fix it myself. I just did the brakes last month and change the oil myself. When I found out about the price of the main switch relay I was happy because it wasn't that bad especaily at rockauto.com. But as far as the others like igniter, coil, and ECM those things are expensive not only that but there are so many kinds of igniters and coils. Which one? So far the car hasn't stalled. If I can I want to try to avoid having it stall on me. I think someone typed in that if you have a bad main switch relay the car will stall. My problem sounds simple though it starts up fine in the morning and then I drive it for about 45min and go to restart to test it and it takes me the 2nd or 3rd try. I leave it for about 3hrs go again and it starts fine. Then I leave it for another 3hrs then I did noticed something odd I go back out the third time and when the sun was out beating on the car I go to start it and it takes me the 2nd or 3rd try to start it and this time the car was not hot and had been sitting for 3hrs and this has happened 3 times to me when the sun was out. I didn't realize that the sun could have that affect on it. I mean the car isn't hot and the parts are covered but then again the sun can raise the temperature inside the car. It got me thinking that this problem sounds like something is "heat sensative" that affects the car starting. So I guess I'll start with the main switch relay and go from there. Sorry this was a long message I got carried away. Didn't mean to write a novel. But thanks again for taking the time txgreasemonkey. If you have more info for me or from anyone else please write me. I'll take it anything helps. Thanks you!! I hope I solve this damn thing!

[Tradrenn]

To OP: Since it's been two years + could we get an update on what actually fixed your car ?

Thanks