[Darrek]

Thanks for all your help, without that diagram I was going to change the distributor housing too. I have spent enough on things that haven't fixed the root of the problem. I think that there was indeed multiple issues at once.

[Darrek]

The housing could still be bad for all I know as well. Also would like to thank tx grease monkey for his help too. Eventually hopefully this thing can be running before I run out of funds haha!

[smoothy]

I'm a firm believe on the fix one thing at a time approach. Systematically check basic systems to isolate... and fix any single one before dinking around with another.

Trying to do two or three at once and you can easily lose track or adversely affect another system...

Like don't dink around with the fuel system while you are playing around with the ignition etc...

Get one right... or prove its right, then work on the next problem until its right or proven good.

Jump all over the place and many times you make a simple problem complex. Easy mistake to make... difficult lesson to remember.

As a professional Mechanic... you actually HAVE to juggle several things at once... but for those of us who do our own work, it's a perfect system to follow.

I'm a Degreed engineer... so I deal with some VERY complex systems... and tend to use a top down approach... find out what systems work, then when you find one that doesn't, troubleshoot it until you find the problem... then verify the other systems to assure there isn't other problems.

[Darrek]

Yeah that's a good way to deal with problems. I worked on the ignition until I knew the spark was good and I already knew I had fuel. I now need to verify that timing iscorrect and just by the looks of the cams it doesn't seem correct.

[Darrek]

However, I don't have the tools or hands on experience to deal with this situation so I am going to let a mechanic have at it.

[Darrek]

Hello, I have an update timing was indeed off, it has now been reset and runs. Got the vehicle home from the auto shop shut it off. When I started it back up car runs but not that well. The computer threw a code 4, which is crank angle sensor. When I took out the crx for a ride it doesn't seem to have the power it once had and doesn't run as well. I thought the crank angle sensor would just make the car not start, but it is not running that well and starts fine? Any suggestions on this new issue.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Yes. Install a new distributor housing (genuine Honda only), like I said before, since the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) is not serviceable. It's fine to reuse your igniter and coil, to keep the cost down. Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas haven't worked at AMHD.

Afterwards, check the timing with a strobe light. The bad distributor was the problem from the beginning.

[Darrek]

So I had two problems at once, I had a mechanic who fixed timing it jumped a little and now the distributor is no good too dang. This car is killing my wallet

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If you are careful in performing Step 3, you can get away without having to use a strobe light:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post288473

That should save you some money.

[Darrek]

Well thanks the car is running normal again ,but now I have another issue surprise surprise. Its an electrical problem now. Last night I when I was returning home I noticed that my radio was going crazy shutting off turning on rapidly. Well I get home shut off my car and now it won't roll over. So today I jumped it and it starts and runs fine,but if you leave it running for a few minutes at idles the dashlights dim and radio starts to go crazy again it then shuts back off. When trying to restart it does the same thing dashlights dim out chime fades out and acts like there is no battery power so it doesn't roll over? This is a weird one, also no fuses are blown but the tailights keep going out and coming back on too?

[Darrek]

Also noticed when you give the vehicle some gas and raise the rpm's the radio comes back on and dashlight brighten up as well then when car returns to idle dims out and radio shuts off again?

[smoothy]

So it runs while its still got jumper cables on it but it quickly dies not long after you take the cables off?

That sounds like a dead alternator and a battery that's got no charge left in it... which WILL kill it.

Having read your comment you made to you post... you may have a weak alternator meaning the voltage regulator is going bad. And its manifesting itself as having not enough output at idle to keep the car running.

And a bad regulator can disharge the battery with the car turned off. Do you have a Digital Volt meter to see what you have when its running fine and when its dying.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Remove and fully charge, or replace, the battery; then, test the regulated battery voltage:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1973613

If you are good with your hands, and have the right tools, you can rebuild the alternator yourself:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post666293

[Darrek]

After takeing the cables off it will run for a while at idle before radio shuts off and dashlights begin to dim then car completely shuts off. It then has to be jumped again to start. Also while cars running if you rev it all lights and radio stay on

[Darrek]

Interesting, I am going to take a look at it tomorrow and hopefully diagnose if it's the battery or alternator

[Darrek]

And everything brightens with a higher rpm, basically anything over 1000 or so.

[smoothy]

Ok... sounds like a discharged battery, and insufficient alternator output at low RPM's.

Follow the links TcGreaseMonkey posted. Even if you do prove it's the alternator get that battery load tested... completely or deeply discharging the average automobile battery will damage it, even if only done once.