 |
|
|
 |
Junior Member
|
|
Sep 16, 2010, 05:42 AM
|
|
Does this "Union" placement for a Heat Furnace violate code?
My HVAC guy told me that I need to move the union (shown in the marked red rectangle below) to the marked blue rectangle outside the furnace box. He said having a union inside the furnace box violates building code in Virginia due to possibility of gas leakage inside, and I would have to fix it anyway if I wanted to sell the house. He was surprised that this wasn't caught when I bought the house. Anyway, is he correct about the code violation (or does it pose a danger) or is he just pulling a fast one on me?
Please advise. He's charging me $250 for this 1-2 hr job.
Thanks,
K
|
|
 |
Ultra Member
|
|
Sep 16, 2010, 06:14 AM
|
|
To have a connection INSIDE the furnace,near the ignition source, yes,that would be a concern I would have.Professionally he is correct.IMHO
You could have a handyman do the replacement/changes,it isn't all that difficult.
No,he wasn't pulling a fast one on you,it is something the housing inspector should have violated.
|
|
 |
Junior Member
|
|
Sep 16, 2010, 06:24 AM
|
|
Thanks, KBC, for your quick reply.
|
|
 |
Ultra Member
|
|
Sep 16, 2010, 06:28 AM
|
|
:) your very welcome.
|
|
 |
Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
|
|
Sep 16, 2010, 11:06 AM
|
|
 Originally Posted by kutra
My HVAC guy told me that I need to move the union (shown in the marked red rectangle below) to the marked blue rectangle outside the furnace box. He said having a union inside the furnace box violates building code in Virginia due to possibility of gas leakage inside, and I would have to fix it anyways if I wanted to sell the house. He was surprised that this wasn't caught when I bought the house. Anyway, is he correct about the code violation (or does it pose a danger) or is he just pulling a fast one on me?
Please advise. He's charging me $250 for this 1-2 hr job.
Thanks,
K
There is an item called a right and left hand coupling. It is threaded so that when the union is removed the coupling will fit between the pipes and as the coupling is turned it will pull both pipes together. Since this method of attachment is NOT a union like you have now it meets code and is very simple to install. See below
Right & Left Couplings , Ward Black Malleable Pipe Fittings - PexSupply.com
|
|
 |
Junior Member
|
|
Sep 16, 2010, 05:02 PM
|
|
 Originally Posted by hvac1000
There is an item called a right and left hand coupling. It is threaded so that when the union is removed the coupling will fit between the pipes and as the coupling is turned it will pull both pipes together. Since this method of attachment is NOT a union like you have now it meets code and is very simple to install. see below
Right & Left Couplings , Ward Black Malleable Pipe Fittings - PexSupply.com
hvac1000:
Thanks. So is this something even I could do by myself? If yes, here are some questions:
1. What tools would I require?
2. Do I just need to measure the diameter of the pipes and get the same-sized right and left hand coupling?
3. Is setting the thermostat to OFF enough before removing the union, or is there any other/additional safety measure that I need to undertake?
4. And most importantly, how do I ensure that I have completed the job safely and successfully?
BTW, what do you mean by "as the coupling is turned it will pull both pipes together"? The pipes are solid so how can they stretch?
Regards,
K
|
|
 |
Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
|
|
Sep 16, 2010, 06:54 PM
|
|
 Originally Posted by kutra
hvac1000:
Thanks. So is this something even I could do by myself? If yes, here are some questions:
1. What tools would I require?
2. Do I just need to measure the diameter of the pipes and get the same-sized right and left hand coupling?
3. Is setting the thermostat to OFF enough before removing the union, or is there any other/additional safety measure that I need to undertake?
4. And most importantly, how do I ensure that I have completed the job safely and successfully?
BTW, what do you mean by "as the coupling is turned it will pull both pipes together"? The pipes are solid so how can they stretch?
Regards,
K
1= two pipe wrenches
2=yes measure pipe OR take the old removed fitting with you.
3=turn power at fuse/circuit breaker box off for better safety.
4= Take pictures and post here so we can see your handy work.
5= is the most important Make sure to turn the gas off at the valve for the furnace so it does not flow when you break the union you are going to remove. Use pipe dope on all threads to prevent leaks. When done turn on gas and leak check disturbed joints with soap bubbles. No bubbles mean no leaks and that is what you want.
Good luck.
|
|
 |
Junior Member
|
|
Sep 20, 2010, 05:34 AM
|
|
 Originally Posted by hvac1000
1= two pipe wrenches
2=yes measure pipe OR take the old removed fitting with you.
3=turn power at fuse/circuit breaker box off for better safety.
4= Take pictures and post here so we can see your handy work.
5= is the most important Make sure to turn the gas off at the valve for the furnace so it does not flow when you break the union you are going to remove. Use pipe dope on all threads to prevent leaks. When done turn on gas and leak check disturbed joints with soap bubbles. No bubbles mean no leaks anbd that is what you want.
Good luck.
hvac1000:
Thanks. Given the novice DIY-er that I am, here's what I am going to do. Please correct me if I am wrong.
1. Measure the diameter of Pipe 1 or Pipe 2 and get a coupling for that same diameter. Also, get pipe dope rather than teflon tape.
2. Turn the gas off at the valve for the furnace.
3. Turn power at fuse/circuit breaker box.
4. Hold Nut A with a wrench, and unscrew Nut B with another wrench until it comes out of Nut A and is completely on Pipe 2.
5. Hold Nut C with a wrench, and unscrew Nut A with another wrench until it comes off.
6. Unscrew Nut C with a wrench until it comes off Pipe 1.
7. Unscrew Nut B with a wrench until it comes off Pipe 2. Now, I'll have two open, unconnected pipes.
8. Apply pipe dope to exposed threads of Pipe 1 and Pipe 2.
9. Slide the coupling between the two open, unconnected pipes and screw on to Pipe 1.
10. Screw the other end of the coupling to Pipe 2.
11. Tighten the joins.
12. Apply soap solution to the joins and turn the gas on at the valve for the furnace.
13. If soap bubbles, tighten even more. Repeat step 12 until there are no soap bubbles.
14. Turn power on at fuse/circuit breaker box.
15. Take a picture and post here.
What stumps me is that steps 9 and 10 can be done without having to cut the pipes. No cutting required, correct?
Thanks,
K
|
|
 |
Junior Member
|
|
Sep 21, 2010, 04:33 PM
|
|
hvac1000:
Can you please reply to my earlier post?
Thanks,
K
|
|
 |
Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
|
|
Sep 22, 2010, 03:06 AM
|
|
Nut A will be the first to come loose. After that remove all the other 2 pieces of the union that is left on the pipe. When you screw the pipes together with right and left hand coupling you do both the pipes at the same basic time. Push both pipes into the coupling and start to rotate the coupling so that they catch the threads about the same time. It is easier said than done here but I have done it many times. Good luch=k.
|
|
 |
Junior Member
|
|
Sep 26, 2010, 08:22 AM
|
|
 Originally Posted by hvac1000
Nut A will be the first to come loose. After that remove all the other 2 pieces of the union that is left on the pipe. When you screw the pipes together with right and left hand coupling you do both the pipes at the same basic time. Push both pipes into the coupling and start to rotate the coupling so that they catch the threads about the same time. It is easier said than done here but I have done it many times. Good luch=k.
Hi hvac1000:
Thanks for all your help. I managed to replace the union with the coupling. However, its installation was not as you explained since I guess I got a different coupling. Home Depot had only one type of coupling and the way to install it was to screw the coupling on to pipe #2, and then tighten pipe #1 into the coupling. For this, I had to remove pipe #1 from the gas line so I could turn it into the coupling. I tested the connections with soap solution as well as did a smell test and everything checked out fine!
However, this morning I woke up to my A/C fan not turning! It did rain overnight and I had a capacitor replaced in June this year. The circuit breakers were fine too. Is there anything I did yesterday while putting in the coupling that could have caused the fan to not work today? I stood outside to see if the fan was even trying to start when the A/c kicks in, but after adjusting the thermostat and starting the A/C, the fan did not even try to start plus there was no sound at all from the unit even though air was flowing through the vents.
Here are the "after" pictures:
Thanks,
K
|
|
 |
Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
|
|
Sep 26, 2010, 04:49 PM
|
|
 Originally Posted by kutra
Hi hvac1000:
Thanks for all your help. I managed to replace the union with the coupling. However, its installation was not as you explained since I guess I got a different coupling. Home Depot had only one type of coupling and the way to install it was to screw the coupling on to pipe #2, and then tighten pipe #1 into the coupling. For this, I had to remove pipe #1 from the gas line so I could turn it into the coupling. I tested the connections with soap solution as well as did a smell test and everything checked out fine!
However, this morning I woke up to my A/C fan not turning! It did rain overnight and I had a capacitor replaced in June this year. The circuit breakers were fine too. Is there anything I did yesterday while putting in the coupling that could have caused the fan to not work today? I stood outside to see if the fan was even trying to start when the A/c kicks in, but after adjusting the thermostat and starting the A/C, the fan did not even try to start plus there was no sound at all from the unit even though air was flowing through the vents.
Here are the "after" pictures:
Thanks,
K
With no sound at all from the outside unit when it is supposed to be running could be a high voltage problem. Check outside disconnect and related fuses/breaker that is contained in the outdoor disconnect box. In other words check to be sure 240 volts or there abouts is getting to the line side of the contactor installed in the outdoor unit.
OR The low voltage control wires for the outside unit may of come loose while you were working on the units gas line. Not very likely but a possibility. You will have to track down the 24 volt circuit from the furnace to the thermostat and then to the outside unit. If this is a strait outside A/C unit you should have 24 volts on the two wires when the thermostat calls for A/C.
|
|
Question Tools |
Search this Question |
|
|
Add your answer here.
Check out some similar questions!
Intertherm Electric Furnace Blower works in "on" not in "auto"
[ 6 Answers ]
I have an Intertherm Electric Furnace E2EB-015AH. I came home from work last night, turned the heat on and it didn't work as advertised. I could hear the relays clicking occasionally so I investigated a little and found the elements are heating up and cycling, the relay inside the thermostat cycles...
Error code for "open pressure switch" on York natural gas furnace
[ 6 Answers ]
I get three red flashes from the furnace after an attempt sequence when the t-stat calls for heat. The motor starts, and seems to try to light but after about thirty seconds, it quits and gives the error code.
I have removed both gray tubes from the pressure switch and made sure they are...
Goodman Gas Furnace - LED flashing "2" error code
[ 11 Answers ]
I have a 5 year old Goodman PGB024075-1A gas furnace. The LED is flashing a "2" error code, meaning an open end switch. I'm attempting to track down the potential causes of this error. After taking things apart, I found and removed an insect nest (the dirt clog kind) which had found its way into...
View more questions
Search
|