[shazamataz]

The bell is a great potty training tool, I have been meaning to teach mine to use one for quite a while now but have never got around to it.
One of mine will sit in the doorway when she needs to go out but she doesn't move and doesn't make a sound so sometimes we don't notice she is there waiting.

Just ring the bell every time you take him outside, eventually he will associate the noise with outside time and pottying.
Then once he knows that the bell means you can mount it at nose height near the back door and encourage him to ring it himself before you open the door and let him out.

As for lead training ,some great advice so far.
I have trained pups who 1)Flat out refuse to walk when you tug the lead and 2)Go absolutely crazy when you try, thrashing themselves about.

You might have to try a bit of tough love with him, give the lead a good tug and just be forceful.
With Cyrus his problem was he would stop and sniff things every 2 steps and he refused to move. A couple of sessions of me walking a good pace without stopping for him (meaning he got drug along behind me when he stopped) fixed the problem.
You can keep trying to improvise with the treats and encouraging him if you think that method is a bit harsh. You can also try adding weights or letting him drag around the leash attached to his collar if you think the problem might be the weight of the leash pulling on him. That way he can get used to the sensation without actually going on a formal walk.

[Catsmine]

At almost three months, consider puppy classes. Most include walking on a leash and with puppies, the more "friends" around the less trouble you'll have with him balking. There's just too many other things going on for his little brain to think about refusing to walk.

[Alty]

The harness was first invented for hunting and sled dogs. It allowed the dog to pull on the leash without choking. This made it possible for the hunter to allow the dog to go after the scent, while holding a leash but not choking the dog and thereby discouraging him to continue following the scent. That's also what the extendable leashes were made for.

A lot of people like using the harness because they feel it's more humane, or because it's more secure (the dog can't easily slip out of it), but as a training tool, it's not great.

My collar of choice is a leather buckle collar. It's like a little belt. This way you can tighten it to just the right tightness without fear of it expanding and slipping off, or fear that the clasp will break. It's important that it's secure because beagles (or any mix with beagle in it) are likely to run and keep running if they ever get loose. They find a scent and that's it, they're gone.

Putting the collar on the dog is almost as important as the walk. He has to learn to associate the collar with something fun, and going for a walk should be fun. When you get a new collar spend the first day or two getting him accustomed to it. Let him sniff it, inspect it. Get him good and tired (play catch, tug of war, whatever he enjoys) and than put him on your lap and try to put the collar on. If he resists, stop, but give him a treat for getting this far. Keep trying to put the collar on, give him every opportunity to slip his head in by himself. Lots of praise with every attempt, and a treat.

The object is to have him willingly have the collar placed on him.

Once it's on and he doesn't mind it, it's his, and stays on.

When going for a walk make sure the dog is calm, sitting, waiting by the door to have his leash put on. Do not start the walk by getting him overly excited. Yes, walks are great, but you are the leader and he is the follower. He has to sit patiently and wait for you to begin the walk. There shouldn't be a struggle to get the leash on. He shouldn't be jumping around, wriggling out of your reach. This isn't play time, this is walk time. He's at the perfect age to learn walk etiquette. Lots of treats and praise, but for this behavior we don't want to get too excited. It's not like potty training where you go overboard when he does what's expected. If he sits patiently waiting for the walk to begin a simple monotone "good boy" and a treat.

Once he's calm, sitting at your feet, put the leash on. Than open the door. You exit the door first, you're the leader. If he bolts out of the door first, go back in, calm him down, than try again.

My rule when we're walking is that we walk for 30 minutes with the dog beside me, or slightly behind me. We don't stop for sniffing, and if he tries to get ahead of me, I do a quick turn to get him to keep his eyes on me (because he has to watch where I'm going so he can follow).

After 30 minutes he's allowed a 10 minute sniff/potty break. When that 10 minutes is up he gets a treat, a "good boy" and we continue our walk. Your puppy is still little so 30 minutes without a potty break may be too much. I'd start at 15 minutes, 10 minute sniff/potty, 15 minute walk, another 10 minute sniff/potty, and than home.

He's really little still and the collar/leash experience is still really new, and a bit scary. He doesn't know that he's supposed to walk while this scary new thing is on his neck. Positive reinforcement, associating the collar and leash with something good (a treat) and patience, and he'll soon get the hang of it. :)

[Alty]

Wow that was a long post. Sorry. :o

[RickJ]

I'm humbled that you'd spend the time that you have in helping us. Thank you so much!

[Lida]

The harness was first invented for hunting and sled dogs. It allowed the dog to pull on the leash without choking. This made it possible for the hunter to allow the dog to go after the scent, while holding a leash but not choking the dog and thereby discouraging him to continue following the scent. That's also what the extendable leashes were made for.

A lot of people like using the harness because they feel it's more humane, or because it's more secure (the dog can't easily slip out of it), but as a training tool, it's not great.

My collar of choice is a leather buckle collar. It's like a little belt. This way you can tighten it to just the right tightness without fear of it expanding and slipping off, or fear that the clasp will break. It's important that it's secure because beagles (or any mix with beagle in it) are likely to run and keep running if they ever get loose. They find a scent and that's it, they're gone.

Putting the collar on the dog is almost as important as the walk. He has to learn to associate the collar with something fun, and going for a walk should be fun. When you get a new collar spend the first day or two getting him accustomed to it. Let him sniff it, inspect it. Get him good and tired (play catch, tug of war, whatever he enjoys) and than put him on your lap and try to put the collar on. If he resists, stop, but give him a treat for getting this far. Keep trying to put the collar on, give him every opportunity to slip his head in by himself. Lots of praise with every attempt, and a treat.

The object is to have him willingly have the collar placed on him.

Once it's on and he doesn't mind it, it's his, and stays on.

When going for a walk make sure the dog is calm, sitting, waiting by the door to have his leash put on. Do not start the walk by getting him overly excited. Yes, walks are great, but you are the leader and he is the follower. He has to sit patiently and wait for you to begin the walk. There shouldn't be a struggle to get the leash on. He shouldn't be jumping around, wriggling out of your reach. This isn't play time, this is walk time. He's at the perfect age to learn walk etiquette. Lots of treats and praise, but for this behavior we don't want to get too excited. It's not like potty training where you go overboard when he does what's expected. If he sits patiently waiting for the walk to begin a simple monotone "good boy" and a treat.

Once he's calm, sitting at your feet, put the leash on. Than open the door. You exit the door first, you're the leader. If he bolts out of the door first, go back in, calm him down, than try again.

My rule when we're walking is that we walk for 30 minutes with the dog beside me, or slightly behind me. We don't stop for sniffing, and if he tries to get ahead of me, I do a quick turn to get him to keep his eyes on me (because he has to watch where I'm going so he can follow).

After 30 minutes he's allowed a 10 minute sniff/potty break. When that 10 minutes is up he gets a treat, a "good boy" and we continue our walk. Your puppy is still little so 30 minutes without a potty break may be too much. I'd start at 15 minutes, 10 minute sniff/potty, 15 minute walk, another 10 minute sniff/potty, and than home.

He's really little still and the collar/leash experience is still really new, and a bit scary. He doesn't know that he's supposed to walk while this scary new thing is on his neck. Positive reinforcement, associating the collar and leash with something good (a treat) and patience, and he'll soon get the hang of it. :)

Thank you again for the great advice, I'll try it and let you know how it goes.

[Lida]

Oh I guess I should have posted my comment here :) To All who are responding... thank you thank you. I am taking this all in and working with John ( It seems like on the hour!) I have found if I carry him a few houses down he walks towards home with me and does not stop... once we are in front of our house he makes a mad dash for the door! Just working it out!

[Cat1864]

It's best not to allow him to 'bolt' for home. It means he isn't thinking about anything but the door and inside. It can cause problems if he tries to dart across on-coming traffic (pedestrian or vehicular) to get there.

If he pulls on the leash, as Alty said, turn around and go in the opposite direction for a few feet. Then turn back the way you want to go. He gets where he wants to go at your pace not his.

It sounds like he is nervous and over-whelmed. This is a good time to work on 'focus' training. Getting him to focus on you and what you want him to do instead of what is going on around him. It doesn't mean that he isn't aware of what is going on. Only that he is looking to you for instructions.

Take a treat and hold it up beside your face and when he looks at you give him the command (focus, eyes front, etc.) and the treat. Like with all time related commands (stay, wait, etc.). Start with him just glancing at your face and treating him and gradually increase the amount of 'focus' time before he gets the treat.

When you take him out for the walk before he stops, you stop and get his attention. Start doing obedience exercises that he is familiar with. After a couple of sits and lays, go a few more feet. Repeat. It's slow but as he grows and becomes more confident with the world, you will look back on these days and remember them fondly.

Remember that just like your children, John will need to be taught how to approach a road and cross WITH you. When you get to the sidewalk or road, have him stop and sit until you say it is okay to cross or turn and walk.

[De Maria]

I've always had cats. I was finally convinced, after over a year of prodding and begging by my kids, to get a dog.

They can be awfully convincing can't they?

We now have a 2.5 month old puppy. Beagle/Lab mix, with maybe some Weiner Dog mixed in.

We got a good dvd about general training, but I'm wondering what your recommendations would be for the best website(s)

Cesar Millan's Official Website | Achieving balance between people and dogs.

to help us further with
1. crate training
2. commands training
3. potty training

The first thing you need to do before you do any of that is establish your relationship with your dog. None of that will do any good unless your dog knows who is the leader in the pack and who is not. Therefore, you and your entire family must establish a sort of pecking order with your dog at the bottom. Most people don't do any training with cats, but it actually helps with cats as well. All your pets must know that they are at the bottom and all the people in your family are their leaders.

At that point you can begin any training you want. Before then, any training you begin will not be taken seriously by your pet as he will be trying to train you. And they are very good at that.

Thanks!

You're welcome. I hope that helps.

Sincerely,

[De Maria]

... he gets a treat walks a little sits and well that goes on until I give up!.

Ah yes. The same old story, cute pup manipulates owner. And the story continues the rest of your life.

The time to nip that in the bud is now. And you will enjoy a healthy stable relationship with a healthy stable dog the rest of your life.

Your dog wants one thing from you. Leadership. And if you can't provide it. He will.

Dogs are born followers. They were bred by man for centuries to be obedient. But make no mistake, if you don't provide leadership, they will revert to their instincts.

If you provide the leadership, you will establish the law of love where everything is equitable and fair. He will be happy and stable and your family will enjoy a wonderful pet who respects them.

If he provides the leadership, he will provide the law of the wild where everything is his way and your way is the highway.

Hi! Thanks for the response. John was wearing a nylon collar to start with however a neighbor with a beagle mix suggested a harness nylon. John has had that on for a week. I leave it on all the time ( it's just easier to take him out). He does not seem to mind... a little scratching here and there. We also use a light weight nylon leash.
When I take him for a walk it is usually after he goes potty I start to walk out to the sidewalk and say come John... I give him a treat and say let's walk ( in an up beat tone... ) sometimes he will walk a little but then he sits down and it becomes a tug of war or walk 5 steps... say come walk... he gets a treat walks a little sits and well that goes on until I give up!
I appreciate the encouragement on potty training. Yes I do remember the kids... I've thought about putting a diaper on him :) I know it just takes time... I have to keep reminding myself of that.

I suggest you read one of these books as soon as you can:
Amazon.com: cesar milan books: Books

And visit the author's website:
Cesar Millan's Official Website | Achieving balance between people and dogs.

[Catsmine]

If you guys are doing research a la De Maria's post, let me also recommend the other "school" of training currently in vogue, "Positive reinforcement." It's celebrity proponent(as opposed to Cesar), Victoria Stilwell, has this website up:


Victoria Stilwell Positively| The Books

[shazamataz]

There is a great divide on this website, some people love Caesar, some hate him... guess which side I'm on?

Check out Cats site, Victoria Stillwell has some great techniques, plus, she's more likeable :D

[Catsmine]

some people love Caesar, some hate him

I've known a lot of trainers in my time; some successful, some not. All of the successful ones used a combination of the two schools.

Some dogs need a pack leader's dominance demonstrated, others need to be shown what to do and that's all. They're happy to do it just to get attention.

There are other times when neither school's techniques will work. For example, a puppy will not follow his person or his pack leader onto a 110 degree sidewalk - it hurts his paws.

[Lida]

I appreciate all of your opinions and will look into the information. I would not be as far along with John today with out your input.

[Alty]

I like Cesar, and he does have many techniques and ideas that work really well, but I like to mix it up.

Cesar relies mainly on what he's deemed "dog psychology". Basically it's letting a dog be a dog, you being the leader, and working with the dogs basic instincts to teach him what you want him to learn.

I do like the idea of teaching your dog that you're the leader, and that part of the training does work, but I also believe in positive reinforcement and treat training (rewarding good behavior with a treat, not just the thought "you did good").

I find that the people that mix up the training techniques and don't just stick to one school of thought do the best when it comes to getting the dog they want.

Just something to keep in mind. :)

[De Maria]

I use positive reinforcement to train my dog. But Caesar's method is not a DOG TRAINING method. It is more properly described as a method which teaches the pet owner to relate to his dog in a manner that his dog will understand AND MORE IMPORTANTLY a manner which his dog will respect.

So, it is more properly described as Dog OWNER training.

Rick, you might want to read this book:
http://www.amazon.com/Marley-Me-Life-Worlds-Worst/dp/0060817089

It's a book about a dog that was taken to several obedience classes and failed them all. This isn't a rare case. I have friends who have not been able to train their dogs.

Its not that the dogs are untrainable. It is that the owners have a utopian view of dog ownership. They own a dog but they treat it as a human.

Let me give you an example. Have you ever seen those nature shows where they show the cubs playing and they say something like this, "Mammals are the only animals that play. This behaviour is very important. They are practicing their fighting skills and at the same time they are establishing their place in the pack." Generally, at that point, they show one cub on top of another.

ESTABLISHING THEIR PLACE IN THE PACK.

When most pet owners see a dog coming at them wagging his tail and jumping on them, they think the dog is doing it simply because he loves them. Yes, he does love them. But he is also establishing his place in the pack. What do most pet owners do when they their pup jumps on them? From my experience, they pick them up and PUT THEM ON THEIR LAP. ON TOP OF THEM.

Without being aware of it, they have unconsciously told the dog that he is the pack leader! And that message has seriously compromised their ability to ever train their dog to follow any of their commands.

The news is not all bad however. From centuries of breeding, most dogs are born natural followers of human beings. It is programmed in their dna. So if the dog owner provides even a minimum effort to give his dog rules, boundaries and limitations, he will probably succeed.

But not all dogs are that way. And too few dog owners know enough to establish a relationship of dominance over their dogs. And when they neglect to do this, the dog will not neglect to establish his relationship of dominance over the owner. I've seen it all too often.

Anyway, the point of my message is this. Caesar's methods ( as some people on this board refer to them) are the best foundation for any type of dog training. Be it positive reinforcement, clicker training (a form of positive reinforcement) or the Koehler method (the best known form of negative reinforcement).

As for me, I use dog psychology (Caesar is the best known representative of that body of knowledge) as a foundation for both positive and negative reinforcement. I use them all.

Sincerely,

De Maria

[Aurora_Bell]

I have to say, I am not a Caesar fan... I don't agree with a lot of his methods, but there are a few friends of mine who have had success with his tecnique.

I am a fan of pos reinforcement. I know this sounds corny, but I like to try and ignore the bad, and praise the good. For example, my friends mixed breed dog is really aggressive. She runs out of the driveway barking and baring her teeth at people. My friend will say "Sammy NO!! come here", and when Sammy starts to come to her, she says "bad dog"... Well that to me sounds like she is disciplining her dog for coming. So I try and tell her, as soon as Sammy looks at her and stops barking, reward, either with lots of happy talk or a lure like a bone or a treat. Your essentially rewarding the behavior you want and expect.

[De Maria]

I have to say, I am not a Caesar fan... I don't agree with a lot of his methods, but there are a few friends of mine who have had success with his tecnique.

I am a fan of pos reinforcement. I know this sounds corny, but I like to try and ignore the bad, and praise the good. For example, my friends mixed breed dog is really aggressive. She runs out of the driveway barking and baring her teeth at people. My friend will say "Sammy NO!! come here", and when Sammy starts to come to her, she says "bad dog".... Well that to me sounds like she is disciplining her dog for coming. So I try and tell her, as soon as Sammy looks at her and stops barking, reward, either with lots of happy talk or a lure like a bone or a treat. Your essentially rewarding the behavior you want and expect.

Hi, thanks for posting that example. Here's the difference using dog psychology before using any training method, positive or negative.

First, if you've used dog psychology from the beginning, your dog will be stable and well socialized. In other words, your dog will be polite. He won't attack anyone.

However, if you have not previously used dog psychology your dog will more than likely exhibit this type of behaviour as well as other unruly behaviours.

Why? Because dog aggression is a SYMPTOM of a larger problem. That problem is specifically called aggression dominance. Addressing the symptom will probably not correct the problem. And this is only one symptom of aggression dominance. There are many others which will probably accompany that symptom.
1. food aggression. The dog won't let anyone come close to his food. Ever heard of biting the hand that feeds them?
2. toy aggression. The dog will become possessive of anything that he plays with. Give him a ball and you won't get it back without a fight.
3. aggression towards children in the family. Dogs will view the children in the family as their subordinates and will forcefully and aggressively make their dominance felt.

So, to correct THE PROBLEM you must establish yourself and every member of your family as a pack leader. Remember that dog psychology is a method of TRAINING THE DOG OWNER how to interact with his dog more effectively. The dog already knows how to be a pack leader and how to be a pack follower. Humans are generally completely oblivious to both.

Before I begin. Verbal commands are discouraged. Using the dog's name is discouraged after you begin the walk.

Why? Because obviously the dog doesn't obey verbal commands, so they just add to the confusion. And using the dog's name is discouraged because you want the dog's name to be associated with positive reinforcement when you begin that training.

The easiest way to become your dogs leader is to take your dog on a power walk.

What is a power walk? A power walk is a walk wherein you will nonverbally communicate to your dog that you are in command of every aspect of his life. Including when and what he smells and when and where he relieves himself.

The control over when and what a dog smells is a big deal because the sense of smell takes up more than half of the dog's brain. If you control his sense of smell, you control the dog.

Here's what to do. First, plan your walk. Plan the time you will take your walk. The best time is after your dog has relieved his bowells. That way your walk won't be interrupted. Plan to take at least one hour. Next, decide your route include in it a place where your dog is permitted to relieve himself. Even though he has already done so, walking moves the bowells and your dog (as well as you) may need to go again.

Ok, now here's the instructions:

1. Observe your dog. When he is calm, get the leash. If your dog is typical of an alpha, he will get overly excited when he notices that you have the leash. DON'T DO ANYTHING. Don't look at him, don't acknowledge him UNTIL HE CALMS DOWN. No matter how long it takes. Go to the kitchen and have a snack if you want. Or read a book. But wait until he calms down.

2. After he calms down call him to you. DO NOT GO TO HIM. He must come to you. He wants to walk and the walk will be his reward for being calm and obedient.

Therefore I repeat again, do not acknowledge him until he calms down and do not go to him. He must come to you.

3. If he gets excited when you call, repeat step 2. Repeat it as often as it takes until your dog is calm.

4. ASSUMING THAT YOUR DOG REMAINS CALM AFTER YOU CALL, and assuming he has come to you when you called. Put the leash on him. If he hasn't come to you with a verbal call alone, you might want to entice him with a bit of food.

4a. For a leash, I prefer a choke collar of some sort. But use whatever is your preference. Only thing is, keep it high on the neck next to his head. Have you ever seen how dog handlers in dog shows place the leash. They do that so that they can have better control of the dog. And the dogs don't seem to mind.

5. Now with the leash on the dog, the dog might get excited again. You must become the strong silent type. Your communication with your dog will be through your leash. SAY NOT ONE WORD. Let me repeat, DO NOT SAY A WORD. Especially do not call the dog's name.

6. Now, observe your dog. He should be used to your waiting by now. But if he isn't and he is excited, simply observe him. Wait until he sits down AND drops his ears. Do not move if he is in an alert position. If his ears are up and he is looking at the door, do not move.

Wait until he is at ease and looking elsewhere. If he lies down that is even better.

7. Now the walk will begin. The alpha dog always leads, therefore you must be the first out the door. If he has beat you to it, return and start from step 6.

Let me give you a few preliminary instructions.

a. Begin to walk and do not stop except to obey traffic laws or UNLESS YOU WANT TO, in order to talk to a neighbor or whatever.
b. Do not let your dog pull you. But if he does, correct him by jerking the leash quickly but firmly to the side. This will throw him off balance.
c. If you must drag your dog, do so.
d. If your dog looks anywhere but at you or forward, correct him by jerking the leash.
e. Do not let your dog sniff the ground, sniff any bushes or trees.
f. Do not let your dog pee. Do not let your dog relieve himself.

8. Take your dog to an area where he can relieve his bowells, let him do so, then resume your walk. If he doesn't relieve his bowells after whatever amount of time you have planned begin to walk back home.

9. The walk back is the same as the walk home. Don't let him pull, sniff any bushes, trees, poles or anything. Don't let him become fixated on anything or anyone. If he does, correct him with a quick jerk of the leash and keep walking.

10. Finally you are near your house. FREQUENTLY, everything breaks down right here. Don't let that happen. If the dog begins to pull you to get home, jerk him to let him know that is unacceptable and stop. Do not proceed until he is calm and submissive again.

11. Now you are at the door. Stop. Do not move. If the dog pulls towards the door correct him. If he knows the sit command, command him to sit. When YOU are good and ready, open the door. You must enter through the door while your dogs sits and waits outside.

12. Invite your dog in the house. Remove his leash and proceed to live in your house.

If the power walk has worked, you will find that your dog has been transformed. He will become your shadow. He will obey your every command. Sometimes even without speaking. Dogs are either mind readers or they read our body language so well that they appear to be.

An easier version of the power walk is the power bike journey. Everything is the same except you ride a bike and the dog follows beside you. This is easier because the momentum created by the speed of the bike makes it harder to distract the dog. It also tires the dog more quickly so that you don't have to take an hour. And he is so tired that he is more submissive when he gets home.

This is not a one time thing. Do it as often as you can, everyday if possible.

WHY IT WORKS

Because you have proven yourself the leader by showing that you control his behaviour. Including when he relieves himself, whom he meets and what he sniffs and marks.

There are two types of dogs, followers or leaders. They are prepared to follow any human who will lead. But if their human won't lead, they are ready to do it.

If you don't lead them and you don't permit them to lead, they become insecure and all types of behavioral problems ensue.

Now, many people object that if you don't let a dog pee and sniff, you aren't letting them be a dog. But that isn't true. You are simply not letting them be a dominant dog. You are letting them be an obedient and well balanced dog who is confident that YOU his leader will protect him and take care of him.

That is the difference. A dominant dog is sure of himself and UNSURE OF YOU. That is why he attacks anyone that comes near the house. He has to protect it.

A calm and submissive dog is confident that his master will protect and take care of him. He will no longer need to show aggression to anyone unless you train him to do so.

Ok, but what if the power walk doesn't work? It worked for me with three dogs. So I have no experience with it not working. However, I have heard that it doesn't always work completely. In that case, I would simply have to address the specific problem.

Lets say you want to address the people aggression. You prepare to take your walk as before. Now you simply walk into your front yard following all the instructions for the power walk. You go out of the door first and you make sure your dog is calm and submissive before you do anything.

Now you just wait leash in hand. Your dog will go into waiting mode. When you see someone coming you CALMLY observe your dog. If his ears prick, you immediately correct with a quick jerk of the leash and send him back to waiting mode. You do this for as long as you desire. Never permit the dog to escalate to an excited state. Not even if you think he is being friendly. You want him to ignore passersby.

I hope that helps.

Sincerely,

De Maria

[Aurora_Bell]

A lot of people here are big on rescue, where using dog psychology isn't always feasible. Sorry Rick and Lida, I am only going to hijack for one quick second :D

When dogs come through my house, they are usually trouble children to begin with, deemed un-trainable. I usually foster/adopt the staffy bully breeds, which on their own can be very bull headed. A lot of times I (or we at the shelter) don't have time to psycho analyze the dog, we have a short period to prove that this dog, despite the lack or previous training or being tied to a shed for it's miserable 5 years of exsistance, can in fact be trained and excel as a loving family pet.

There are different training methods some work and some don't. No two dogs are the same, and the learning curve and train-ability will always be different. I think there is great stuff on this thread about training ideas!

[Sariss]

With that explanation, I'm surprised my dog doesn't attack everyone considering he gets excited when I get the leash out and I let him take his time and sniff and do his thing during the first 10 minutes of our walk... I must have some horrible dominant, aggressive dog.