[Hondaking]

I got a 1990 honda civic hatchback and it broke down a while ago I think I need to change the distributo cause it cranks but does not turn over and also I checked the trouble code and it gave me a code 10

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Code 10 = Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor.

Perform tests, in Sections 1 and 2, below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...les-46563.html

[Hondaking]

Wow that's a lot of work well I kind of skimed through it and what caught my attention was the no spark test I tried that before this post and I have no spark the car did crank over but was not drivable due to what I think is a vacuum leak I had some wires resolderd on the distributor and It stopped cranking over should I replace the distributor and look for a vacuum leak

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Does the CEL come on and go off after two seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), and can you hear the fuel pump run during this interval? If it does, the problem is with the distributor.

[Hondaking]

The cel bulb was taking out but before it was it was taken out it was on and I am getting fuel so the pump is running also I had to fix the main relay because when you turn the ignition key the ticking would constantly tick so I fix it and now it ticks when its suppose to like when you turn the key

[TxGreaseMonkey]

It would be best if you could replace the CEL bulb; otherwise, perform the K-Test on the ECM:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

If it passes the K-Test, and since the fuel pump runs, the problem should reside with the distributor. Make sure, however, that all under hood and under dash fuses are good by testing them with a test light or multimeter. After that, consider getting a replacement distributor (genuine Honda) from your local salvage yard (around $55). Here's how to replace the distributor:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post288473


An alternative is to replace the igniter and coil in your existing distributor housing, if you're confident the internal sensors (CKP, TDC, and CYP) are fine. Here's how to replace the ICM and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

[Hondaking]

Ill replace the cel bulb I opened up the distributor and the tdc sensor was bad so I cut it out and replaced it and closed the air gap and put a different igniter on the but it wouldn't crAnk over but then I put the old one in with the new tdC sensore and it sounded like it was attempting to crank over but it didn't. Is there a way you can send me a diagram of the map sensor where I'm suppose to connect them and also if I don't have a multimeter can I just use a test light?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I have never seen anyone successfully repair an internal sensor on a Honda distributor. The only thing that will work, in my opinion, is replacing the distributor housing. Remanufacturers can't even do it right. Look at all of the problems I have on this site with new aftermarket and remanufactured distributors for Hondas. The problem is always with the internal sensors.

The MAP Sensor should be on the firewall, just to the right of the fuel filter. You need at least an inexpensive multimeter--a test light will not do. Turn the ignition switch to on, remove the MAP Sensor connector, attach the red probe to the right female socket, and attach the black probe to ground. If the ECM is any good, the voltage should be around 5 volts. I don't have any diagrams.

[Hondaking]

I got another cel bulb and a multimeter today but I'm not too fimiliar with a multimeter do u think u can guide me as to were does the knob on the multimeter need to face

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Set the dial to DCV (Direct Current Volts).

[Hondaking]

I put in the cel bulb and when I turn the key to the on position the bulb stays on but the multimeter has 5 different positions on the dcv reader it has a 200m,2000m,20,200,and 1000 witch one do I put it on and witch plug do I diconect the one with three wires or the one with two and witch wires do I put the positive and the ground on?

[Hondaking]

The cel bulb stays on and where exactly on the dcv do I put it on there's a 2000m 200m 20 200 2000 and 1000

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Set it to 20 DCV and then test a standard 1.5 volt dry cell battery. That will tell you if you have selected the right scale or not.

Yes, disconnect the 3-wire connector to the MAP Sensor. Turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). As you look at the open end of the connector, connect the red test lead to the female socket on the right. Connect the black lead to any good ground.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Since the CEL stay on, your Civic will not spark and the fuel pump will not run. Therefore, all efforts should be directed to correcting the problem that prevents the CEL from going out.

The problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) 15 amp fuse, in the under dash fuse box; ECM (perform the K-Test); main relay; or the ignition switch. Perform tests in that order. Normally, the problem is with the fuse or ECM.

[Hondaking]

Is it posible that my cel is staying on for something else that would not be fatal to the car cause when it was running the cel would stay on from what I remember. And on my multimeter I have to connect the two cables to the multimeter and I have never had to do that cause the multimeter. Had before was already done witch one of the three spots do it put it on

[TxGreaseMonkey]

On a 1990 Civic it might not be fatal. For 1992 and on, it is fatal. Still, you want to perform the K-Test on the ECM. Yes, you have two test leads going to every multimeter--Red (Positive) and Black (Negative). I don't know how to explain any further on how to run the K-Test. Sorry.

[Hondaking]

I checked the map sensor and it came out to 5 volts so it was good abd I checked the fuse for the alt. And then went on to the test for the relat and the 4 and 8 terminal was good but then tested the 5 and 7 and it as bad it doesn't click but I'm confused I have three of those relays in total (all used) and none of them will click from terminal 5 to 7

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I'm not sure what relay test you are conducting. Did all under hood and under dash fuses test OK? I'm glad your car passed the K-Test. It may be that the CEL stays on because of the Code 10.

If all fuses are fine, and since it passed the K-Test, the problem is likely with the distributor. If you can install a good distributor, it will probably start. Here's how to do it:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post288473

[Hondaking]

All the fuses should read 12.50 around there right

[TxGreaseMonkey]

The important thing is that both test points on each fuse allow current to flow. Don't get hung up on the exact voltage reading. That's why a simple test light is good enough to test fuses.