[Deucee]

Hi,
I noticed many helpful posts and would like to ask for some advice on my wife's 2000 Honda Civic VP 1.6l. It has almost 80k miles on it.

Recently, the car had been idling pretty rough, to the point that it would vibrate and stall at a stop sign or traffic light. Then the "check engine" light came on so we brought it to AutoZone to check the codes. The codes were for the oxygen sensor and the idle air control valve.

First, I changed the fuel filter because that was inexpensive and overdue. It didn't make much of a difference because the car still idled so badly that it stalled several times on my wife. Then yesterday, I changed the idle air control valve. That seemd to make a big difference and it is not stalling or vibrating like it was. But, it does still seem to be idling slower than it should. There is no tach gauge on the car, by the way. Also, I reset the ECM after changing the idle control valve and after running it a few minutes, the check engine light came back on. Today, I brought it to AutoZone again and the only code that came up referred me to the oxygen sensor again.

Basically, my question is this:
Should I just turn up the idle or should I replace the oxygen sensor? A friend who has worked on his Honda a lot tells me that the O2 sensor rarely is a problem in just about any car even though the code comes up a lot.

Also, I know where the O2 sensor is, but I am not sure I know where the idle control screw is. I noticed an adjustable screw below the air filter casing when I changed the idle air control valve. Is that the idle control screw?

Any help appreciated,
Deucee

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Civic Idle Speed Adjustment

Adjusting the idle speed is not straight-forward, the way it used to be. On most Hondas the adjustment is made when the engine is warmed up. The 3-P connector to the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is disconnected and the idle screw on the end of the throttle body is adjusted to specification (normally around 450 rpm). The idle adjustment screw is often "leaded in," to prevent owners from fiddling with it. Take a small screwdriver and dig it out. Additionally, to set the idle speed, you need to locate the BLU tachometer wire, which goes from the distributor (actually connected to the igniter inside the distributor) to a bundle of wires located near the clutch master cylinder reservoir. A tachometer is attached to the BLU wire. After the adjustment is made, the 3-P connector is reattached to the IAC valve. When that's done, the idle speed increases a fair amount (to around 700 rpm). The last thing to do is to reset the computer. Either remove the 7.5 A backup fuse, in the under-hood fuse box, for 15 seconds or disconnect the negative battery cable for 15 seconds.

I would set the idle to specification and see if the oxygen sensor continues to throw a code. If it does, isolate whether it's associated with the sensor or the sensor's pigtail connector and then fix. Don't use brake cleaner, WD-40, or any cleaner on the connector, because it will cause a code to be thrown. Only dress the pigtail connector with a small Swiss file.

[B T B]

Hi,
I noticed many helpful posts and would like to ask for some advice on my wifes 2000 Honda Civic VP 1.6l. It has almost 80k miles on it.

Recently, the car had been idling pretty rough, to the point that it would vibrate and stall at a stop sign or traffic light. Then the "check engine" light came on so we brought it to AutoZone to check the codes. The codes were for the oxygen sensor and the idle air control valve.

First, I changed the fuel filter because that was inexpensive and overdue. It didn't make much of a difference because the car still idled so badly that it stalled several times on my wife. Then yesterday, I changed the idle air control valve. That seemd to make a big difference and it is not stalling or vibrating like it was. But, it does still seem to be idling slower than it should. There is no tach guage on the car, by the way. Also, I reset the ECM after changing the idle control valve and after running it a few minutes, the check engine light came back on. Today, I brought it to AutoZone again and the only code that came up referred me to the oxygen sensor again.

Basically, my question is this:
Should I just turn up the idle or should I replace the oxygen sensor? A friend who has worked on his Honda a lot tells me that the O2 sensor rarely is a problem in just about any car even though the code comes up alot.

Also, I know where the O2 sensor is, but I am not sure I know where the idle control screw is. I noticed an adjustable screw below the air filter casing when I changed the idle air control valve. Is that the idle control screw?

Any help appreciated,
Deucee

Change the sensor my car did that it's the o2

[jfgoudy]

Good advice

[ishmrtz]

change the sensor my car did that its the o2

Hi I changed my 02 sensor for a bosch compatible 02 sensor I have a 04 civic ex and my car deselerates and acelerates on parking mode and on red light it rubles a lot like if it would to turn of. Any idea what else can I do to get rid of these.. thanks

[ishmrtz]

I have the same problem changed my 02 and problem is the same. Any help

[TxGreaseMonkey]

ishmrtz, I am not a fan of universal oxygen sensors or those made by Bosch for Civics. I recommend Denso sensors. Over time, you want the best sensor or you will pay for it in poor gas mileage and performance.

[moolieboy]

Here's a video about Honda Idle Problems.
I hope this helps You.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEVblY