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Rough in a downstairs half-bath
Getting ready to try to install a half bathroom in basement, seems the builder anticipated this when building, problem is this, the stack runs pretty close to where I want to install toilet, (within 3 ft), they also included another drain with a cap on it about a foot from where toilet will be(to close to wall to use as toilet drain), I am confident enough to tap into it but lost on venting procedures and which one to tap into. the drain for sink is in place and capped off so that shouldn't be a problem.Thanks
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Hope this helps, I will try to explain what all it is, the stub out is what I am wanting to tap into (easy to get to).. the others are what it all looks like up top, another thing that may also be relevant is this is considered a basement, however, it is a tri-level house and there is a basement lower than this one (all be it on the other side of house) that has the washer/dryer/ floordrain and multiple stub outs in place, my biggest fear is putting this in and it not draining to properly. Thanks, and I included one of where I plan to put sink
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Vaccarodm:
I'm pretty sure that the capped pipe is for the toilet and the pipe over by the sink is the toilet vent. The sink vent and the toilet vent connect together in the pic. And go upward. It all looks to be done for you..? How far is the pipe with the cap off the wall to the center of the pipe? Let us know... MARK |
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The capped pipe is the toilet drain. The wall got built around it... ;)
Here, I would recommend that you chip up the concrete and expose the piping back to where you want to install the toilet. If you are lucky, you can simply cut the pipe underground and install an elbow fitting... stub pipe up "dry fit" (don't cement/glue the stub up pipe)... install some cardboard around the pipe (so equals 1" thick) and then recement the floor. Later, when the floor is finished, you will remove the cardboard and the dry fit pipe and then measure pipe needed and install a new closet flange. The venting should be all set underground unless the fitting is where you want the toilet to go and then the vent fitting will need to be moved further back and connected back onto the vent line underground. No vent work needed above the floor. MARK |
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The center of closet flange will be approx 15 inches from wall (will get toilet and "dry set" to make sure that's where I want it first), I will chip up floor to existing stub, glue in elbow, glue in horrizontal pipe, dry fit stub leading down to horizontal (so I know what length is needed after floor is re-poured) wrap with the cardboard so I don't concrete the "dry" pipe in so I can pull it back out, pour floor, measure and be in business? |
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The center of the closet flange wants to be exactly 12" from the rough stud wall....will leave you with 11.5" from the sheetrock at finish. This measure works best for 99% of all standard 12" rough in toilets. Otherwise, you understood perfectly!
MARK |
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Thank you Patty... always a pleasure running into you... :) It's nice that you took the time to help, too!
Vaccarodm... if you are around let me know I want to draw up what I think you'll find underground... let me know when you pop back in by posting here. Thanks... Mark |
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Originally Posted by massplumber2008
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Glad to help! Patty's really something... huh? Check out her previous projects by clicking on her name... see options.
Otherwise, check back tomorrow and I'll draw up what I expect you to find underground. Just post an OK so it'll show up to remind me in the AM? Thanks... |
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Hi... just wanted to present what I think is under that floor.
Open the hole up pretty big as indicated in the drawing... it will save time in the long run. Cut out the necessary pipes and install a new 3" coupling onto the old pipe. Next, you'll install a 3"x2" wye fitting and a street 45 to pick up the two inch vent with a new 2" elbow and 2" coupling. Use a 3" elbow to stub up the dry fit pipe... cardboard around and then you can run a hose down the toilet elbow to check for leaks. Backfill the trench and reconcrete the floor. Let us know how you make out... MARK |
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I don't know...
I'm thinkin' even if the pipe goes that way it shouldn't make a difference in doin' this yourself... Here, you start chipping into the concrete about 1 foot away from where you think the pipe is... chip away at the concrete only... don't let the jackhammer punch deep through so it can break the pipe. Take your time, create a hole and then UNDERMINE the concrete by pulling dirt and rocks out. As you undermine the concrete you can feel for the pipe before chipping out the next section of concrete... In this manner, you work toward the pipe until it is located and then just work forward from there. Hope that made sense... hope it helped! MARK |
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It does make sense, my fear is where is this pipe running to, I know it eventually has to go in to the main stack somewhere, but on this floor there is a few ground drains with grates on them (in garage,and by water heater) my fear is that "waste" will be going through these lines and have a smell coming up through them, sounds crazy I know, my wife says I am thinking too much and in her opinion, making it harder than it needs to be.lol |
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Mmmm... possible I suppose, but unlikely that sewer would be too much of an issue even if you did run into trouble... just stop using the drain pipes and no more sewer issues...
Most likely you'll find the pipes and then repipe them as needed. The extra nice thing here is that they are plastic pipes... much easier than the old cast iron piping would have been... ;) I'd give it a shot and if you get into anything questionable you know you can pop back here and work through it! Keep us posted. MARK |
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