[curiousgeorge]

Hi,

I have a cold and a hot water spigot under the sink, both 3/4". They are attached to two flexible sink hoses which go up to the sink faucets.

I want to add a washing machine near the sink and I was thinking to put a "T" or "Y" connector on the end of each spigot so I can attach the washer's hot and cold to these spigots as well as the sink's hot and cold as before.

Is this feasible, or do I need to add new spigots somewhere on the plumbing line?

Thanks much

David

[labman]

You may want to add the tee before the faucets. If the lines after the faucets is less than 3/4, that would reduce the pressure causing the washer to fill slower. If the faucets are threaded, it would be no big deal to shut the water off elsewhere, unscrew things, screw on a tee, and put things back together again. Add new faucets with a hose fitting to fit the standard washer hoses. Just be careful not to mix copper and galvanized fittings.

What is your plan for the drain?

[speedball1]

Good morning Dave, You have options here. You didn't say if the angle stops, (shut off valves) were compression stops, threaded stops or soldered on.  If they are compression or solder on stops and you have solder skills and equipment you can remove the old stops and solder in a  3/4 X 1/2 X 1/2" street tee.  The end of the tee will be male while the branch,(middle part) will be female.  Solder in a short piece of 1/2" copper 1 1/2 or 2" long.  You may now install a 1/.2 X 3/8" compression stop for the sink and a 1/2 X 1/2" compression stop for he washer.  On the ends of the 1/2" supplys to the washer solder on 1/2 X male hose thread adptors or 1/2"copper to copper hose bibs to connect the washer up.   Or you could purchase (2) 3/4 X 3/8" angle stops with a 1/2" side outlet from a plumbing supply house and connect that way.  For threaded connections you will need a brass 3/4 FIP X 3/8 X1/2 tee and  solder  in 1/2" copper pieces to connect the compression angle stops to.  Good luck, Tom

[curiousgeorge]

Gentlemen thank you so much for the quick replies! I am really new at this, it's good to know I have friends in the business -

The valves are compression (twist the handle to open) valves, the fitting seems to be soldered on. (I tried to give the spigot collar a turn and it would not budge.) So I'm guessing I can't get the tee on before the spigot without doing some kind of soldering, which I do not have training in -

I guess I was hoping I could just screw on the tee and the hoses and be done, but unless I can put the tee on after the spigot I guess I can't. It sounds like the issue there is that after the spigot the opening gets smaller and this would lengthen the washer's fill time - is this the only issue with applying the tee after the spigot?

As far as draining goes (and thanks for asking) I was reading up in this guide about washer draining, and it sounds as if I have a choice between a drain hose raised above the level of the washer tub rim and a check valve. In one response you said that the check valve should be as close to the washer as possible - I was wondering why. I was thinking of putting the check valve right next to the drain pipe (which is the drain pipe for the sink) and running the washer's hose to that -

Thanks again for your time and care (5AM - you guys must really be plumbers!) and let me know if you have any other thoughts... if you need any computer advice, please count on me -

David

[labman]

I am not sure what the times posted here are, but I was not up on the net at 5:16 AM EDT.

If the existing faucet/stop/valve has a hex nut on it, it is a compression fitting. It should come off, but maybe not easily. The nut on the other side may not come loose any easier. You may have better luck with the proper size open end box wrench or even the special "flare nut" wrenches that are closed except for one side giving just enough room to go over the line. If you have enough line, it might be easier to just cut the line and put a compression fitting in. Usually compression fittings won't screw together without a length of tubing between them. Tubing cutters make nicer cuts, but if you don't plan on doing too much of this, a hack saw will do. Just get the cut as straight as possible, and file down the burrs.

Likely Tom buys his fittings at a plumbing supply house that has things like he suggested, unlike the average hardware or home center. With the right fitting, you can skip several adapters, bushings, etc. each of which takes money, time, room, and provides more joints to leak. It also makes a more professional looking job.

Working before the existing valve, you will want to add one after the tee to shut the water off to the washer. Make sure you get one with a hose thread on the end to fit the washer hose. Working after the valve, you will still need a pipe thread to hose thread adapter. Usually those come as 3/4'' male pipe to hose threads.

[curiousgeorge]

OK, looks like I've got my work cut out for me. From what you said I think I have the choice of putting the tee before or after the valve? - I can see why before the valve would be preferred.

I wonder how I would put a compression fitting in if I hacked the pipe - would this be done with welding?

Anyway thanks again for the expert advice -

[speedball1]

Hi David, This is not a option. The tee will be placed ahead of the angle stops on the pipe coming out of the wall,(the stubout). The present angle stops you describe are not compression stops but the solder on kind. If you install a tee it will have to be soldered on. The exception to this is if you cut the present valves out and install the 3/4X3/8 X1/2" side outlet compression angle stops. A compression fitting dorsn't solder on. Cut the copper stubout with a set of tubing cutters leaving at least 3/4" to connect to. A check valve is not needed unless you are planing to extend the washer hose drain line up and overhead to a new location. If you are planing to just discharge the washer into the sink you won't need a check valve. However if you are planing to extend the washer discharge up and to a new location the check valve has to be as close to the washer as possible so that when the washer pump stops all the dirty water in the extended line won't drain back into washer with your clothes. Thanks for the nice words. I can't speak for lab man but I'm a retired plumbing superintendent and the shop trouble shooter. Cheers, Tom