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    myhouse2's Avatar
    myhouse2 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Nov 28, 2009, 11:26 AM
    Repairing a block wall with poured wall
    Just purchased a 1940's cape house with clay soil and very poor drainage knowing these problems. No below grade outlet for footing drains. The front porch was solid concrete and settled over the years and poured water down between the foundation and the steps. It washed the grout out of the cinder, (not cement) blocks. That is problem 1. problem 2 is previos homeowners failed to put gutter downspouts away from foundation and in a corner dug a hole right to the bottom from water pressure, it broke the blocks almost completely apart. I have taken a section out of the floor to inspect footing from inside and it looks OK. I currently have steps removed, whole front of house jacked up and leveled, replaced all rotten wood.here is the question that no mason or engineer can tell me. I want to replace 65 linear ft of the wall 2 outside corners and one inside corner and mesh it with the good existing cinder block. Trying to not disturb fragile cinder blocks while repairing to new wall.
    Do I lay block and try to stich it togeter and waterproff the hell out of it?
    Pour concrete install rebar into existing wall to bind 2 together well( less disturbing to original wall)?
    How high can I go to make the form so concrete truck can pour concrete, I know I then would still have to lay one or two courses to meet the sill plate.
    To remedy water/ clay pressure against wall I have installed perimeter drain around basement. There actually isn't much of any water in them even in rainstorms
    I am thinking of going with the poured wall idea cost would be a little higher but no one around here has ever done this
    I would like to get some feedback. Thanks jon @ [email protected]
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,441, Reputation: 212
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    #2

    Nov 29, 2009, 07:22 AM

    Done a lot of them professionally.
    You can put in a concrete wall but that requires a lot of materials.
    1. 3/4 ply
    2. snap ties ( long and short )
    4. A lot of 2x4s for whalers and strong backs
    5. metal clips for snap ties.
    6. Rebar
    7. concrete vibrator

    Cheaper and easier to lay block and Parge the wall on the out side as you lay it up. Then spray seal parged side.

    Tooth new block wall into old wall. To cut old wall tooth use a diamond cutoff saw

    You are going to lay block on new concrete wall to get anchor bolts in for the plate ( code here every 6 foot on center and no more then a fit from the corners)

    So you might as well lay block for the rest of the wall.

    Mason there should know this cost difference.

    OR you could pour a low concrete knee wall to stop water at the bottom and lay block up from there to stop water from coming through the bottom of the wall. More so then not without drain tile water can still pressure under wall into basement if no drain tile is put in.

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